Ragsf15e

+1 interested in quality new seal here.

Two quick thoughts... completely unrelated: 1. Cold flying at smaller airports... watch the snow vs wingtips carefully! Snowplow drivers seem to also be high wing flyers in my neck of the woods! I literally had to shutdown and shovel just off the runway once and couldn’t even get close to the cheap fuel I had actually come for! Small airport, city plow. 2. Without getting into huge lop discussion, 50 LOP might be good at ~75% or 80% power to keep you out of red box/fin. As power gets lower, box gets smaller and disappears ~65%. So as Shadrack and Carusoaum said... at 65% power you can run much closer (or at) peak and get better performance while still lop. At higher power settings (usually down low altitude), 50 lop might be more appropriate.

Yep, potentially that’s true. Mine buffets pretty good before the nose really falls off. Much easier recovery if you do it at the first big buffet. Who’s to say what was the last big buffet or full stall. Tough to put in words on a post too. We may just be describing differently.

There is definitely a difference in my M20F when I stall it power on (~60%+) vs power off. If the ball is centered it’s relatively straightforward either way and relatively straight ahead, but much quicker and more sensitive to small yaw with the power on. I have purposely stalled it with power on and feet off the rudders just so I’d know how quickly it would turn bad. It was quick. Very much like a half snap roll. It got my attention and I was flying a fully aerobatic airplane at work at the time. It did recover very nicely with power reduction (just to help me get rid of yaw) slight push on the controls and a coordinated roll to wings level. One great thing about the mooney is that it really talks to you before stalling. Stall horn screaming, buffet, forces me to pull back very hard to get it to actually stall. So to the OP... how certain were you that it’s really well coordinated and rigged?

Did you have the vent open mixing with the heat - ie both knobs pulled? If it’s real cold out, I have to leave the heat on full and then slightly modulate the vent to get the right temp. All manually controlled air (left pilot knee vent and top vents) closed. I’m usually good down to about -15c in cruise. Never had my engine temps that low though... lean in the climb to target egt? Cowl flaps closed? Its cold in Washington, but not that cold!

I too use FF basic but my aural warnings work... maybe delve into the settings and make sure they’re on? They aren’t part of the geo rectified charts. Your ipad will need a gps source however.

Is there anyway to keep the bottom door support bracket from tearing up the seal when you close the door? Mine is all torn away where that bracket attaches to the door. I would think door mounted seal would do the same?

Longtime foreflight user and love the app but also concerned about pricing. I even fly commercially and refuse to spend someone else’s money on performance pro. One thing that really bothered me as a cfi is that their Navlog in basic and pro doesn’t have leg fuel for each waypoint, only a flight total. Performance pro does... i need to pay $300 for a basic fuel planning function that every cfi and examiner should be asking for?! They do have leg fuel on the simplified Navlog above the moving map, but only performance pro can have it on the printable, “full” Navlog in Flights, seems weird.

I would be in the market for a set of those if someone decided to make more. Mine are sort of serviceable if set just right, but not so good when your seat suddenly reclines as you rotate on takeoff!

Guys, couple questions I have that might help the OP too... what kind of useful load, speed, and cruise fuel burn might you expect from a fiki O2, Bravo, or 252? Are the seating and passenger areas really the same size as the “mid bodies”?! So my F has same seating room as an O2?

Garmin website says attitude may be turned off for some installations (helos)... is your installation shop sure attitude isn’t disabled?? Probably only a setting they can get to.

Does a 345r Bluetooth to an iPad with position, adsb in, attitude? Most of the above discussion was above the non-r 345.

Or just stay real current with partial panel ops because you’re still required to have those instruments.

I have a King HSI. Flux dome as you described is in the tail, maybe 2’ aft of my battery. Right next to my AP pitch servo. Perfect location. Roll servo is in my left wing. I hear right wing is a good place for one if your strobes are well grounded.

Nice. Now if we could just count on all the FSDOs being reasonable, that would be great!

Panel looks great, and probably very reliable, but maybe not meeting the letter of the law for a backup AI? The G5 STC says it cannot be a required backup... not saying I agree, but...

Well that takes away the major benefit of the E5 over the 2xG5s... no upgrading the E5 in the future unless you reinstall an appropriate backup AI or make it a dual Aspen setup ($$). IE, can’t install the E5 now and upgrade it to the HSI and ADSB in/out when the $$ is available without other significant changes. Dang, guess I’m back to the 2xG5s.

How’s this... I put in the aspen E5, remove vacuum and AI. Then i replace turn coordinator with G5. All legal so far since Aspen E5 doesn’t require backup and the G5 can replace AI or TC... Then I “upgrade” the aspen to a “Pro Max” via software to “make it better” and the entire panel is illegal! The Aspen “Pro” now requires a backup AI, and the G5 isn’t allowed to be a backup AI, only primary or a TC. That’s so ridiculous that it might actually be true!

I believe you, although I think it would be pretty silly to install an E5, remove your AI and vacuum system, decide to upgrade the E5 (software), then be required to reinstall your AI?! That would be awesome. Our FAA at work?

I think I like the Aspen slightly more than the dual G5s due to their upgrade capability, however one thing bothers me a little, and it probably shouldn’t. I don’t want another “wart” on the top of my airplane. The aspen rsu goes on the outside because it provides more than a compass heading sensor. It also has a temperature probe and gps antenna. It’s required and is similar to putting another gps antenna on top the airplane. G5s mount their sensor inside the fuselage since it’s just a compass heading sensor. The G5 redundancy is nice, but I plan to put in an AV20s if I do the aspen.

I’ve been reading a lot about these things recently because I’m also trying to decide between G5s and E5. E5 is definitely ifr. Is it an HSi? Well, find me a definition of an HSI... it has a compass heading card with a course needle overlayed which seems to be the important part. The course needle doesn’t have a CDI, the CDI is at the bottom of the screen. Doesn’t seem like a big deal... and yes, I’ve got a few thousand hours of military flying with an HSI, but this doesn’t bother me... maybe it should? Both glide slope and lateral deviation are shown, so no other OBS/CDI instrument is required. I have an STEC 30, and I’m pretty sure no ea100 or acu is required to use that with the E5. That part I’m still working out. It will integrate with my 430W, my STEC30, and (with upgrade) my GTX345. I do like the G5s redundancy, but no adsb and many less add on features than the aspen. still a tough decision... https://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/news/Aspens-E5-Low-Cost-EFIS-Now-STC-Certified-231978-1.html

None of the new Aspen “max” lineup requires keeping the old AI. They changed the way they account for pitot/static failure (icing) by using the gps GS input to aid the ahrs. And they used the new FAA STC process like Garmin with the G5. No more old AI required now.

Has anyone seen an rsm mounted in the approved “alternate” location just behind the top of the windscreen? I have an unused and expendable gps antenna there and I’d like to switch it out with rsm if I go E5 vs 2xG5s.

Gotta admit, % power on the jpi is nice and pretty useful for patterns and approaches and getting a good idea for red box/fin.

Yep, I have a JPI 930 and 430w as well. Wouldn’t want the torpedo to be the only light on my 6 pack. I have led ring lights in the 6 pack though and they are awesome. Make sure the jpi and 430 dim down appropriately. May have to work on that with settings. I have found their auto dimmer lacking.