Ragsf15e

What’s the gist of it? Did they prefer one over the other? I tried to read for myself but they won’t let me!

I agree. It also depends on what type cylinders the OP has. If they’re chrome, 7-8 is pretty good. If steel, then probably average or slightly below. Mike Busch has some good reading on oil use vs different types of cylinders. Chrome average around 5hrs/qt.

A couple other thoughts (not an expert on the Surefly, just reading a lot)... the EGT change may or may not be related. If you don’t get above about 7000’ (depending on rpm), you won’t even get any advanced timing, so it’s just a fancy fixed mag. If you do get up higher, then the manifold pressure will drop below the point where surefly will begin an advance curve. Advanced ignition fires earlier. More combustion is in the cylinder, so slightly cooler egt makes sense. CHTs are what will get hotter. It doesn’t seem like you have an engine monitor for all 4 cylinders, but if so, you’ll likely see some kind of CHT increase as the timing advances. Most people I’ve read said about 10-20 degrees above what they had previously. Again, won’t see that until you’re high enough to start the advanced timing curve. Finally, your fuel burn isn’t going to improve any perceptible amount until you get up high where Surefly advances and then set your mixture very carefully with a full 4 cylinder engine monitor. Likely it will only improve efficiency when lean of peak (that based off the discussion on the Vans website).

So for #3, stumbling on mag check, there was something about that on the vans website. Something like momentary stumble when switching to the sim because it doesn’t instantly start firing when powered, it takes a second to spool up or self check or whatever, so you get a quick stumble. Did you notice more?

I get the impression that it’s an advance curve that won’t hurt any of the engines it’s certified for, but it won’t optimize ignition for them either. Might be a crapshoot depending on your engine type exactly what performance changes you realize (or don’t). Now it should start easily and require less maintenance than traditional mags, so that’s a plus. FWIW, here’s a copy of their advance pasted from their website to Mooney space 7 months ago. Tough to read. The copy on Vans website is easier. It would be really nice to have the 3 choices of advance that JetDriven suggested. How long you think that would take to certify??

They had it posted until recently, but there’s a copy of it on that RV thread. Don’t think it’ll change anytime soon due to all the certification they went through!

That would be nice, but I don’t think they do that with the Surefly. The curve on their website is what you get no matter your engine.

Did any of you guys read this and have any thoughts on their conclusions? The experimental folks seemed to say that the advance schedule is a “one size doesn’t fit all” solution for lots of engines. Specifically for our angle valve io360s, they said the optimum advance is something around 28 degrees. The Surefly can go all the way up to 36.5 at 2700rpm. Basically they said the advance is way past optimum for us and not going to improve performance much, but will result in higher temps for sure. Im definitely hoping to get one for easy maintenance, starting, etc, however if the temps are higher, I’d at least like a little more speed or economy?

Does it have a switch over on the other side of the panel for slaved/unslaved?? If so, does that turn the card? Sounds like connection to the magnameter or The HSI itself? What type HSI is it?

Bottom design from the OP would be my choice. Gonna look awesome no matter. I would also stay away from metallic base, however something close to “bright shiny aluminum” might be nice as it won’t show those few inevitable chips on the leading edge. Does anyone consider the lighter colors for the top, especially the cabin to help keep the airplane cooler on the ground?

Looks real nice! I’m about to do something similar with 2 G5s, so I’ve got a couple questions... first, where the heck is your gear handle? Also, why didn’t you want your G5s flush mounted? And finally, what did the new left side panel cost? I’m going to need a whole new panel cut out... thanks!

Me neither!

I thought that at first too, but then 2309 weight - 312 (52 gal fuel) = 1997 empty weight.

There are a few other random things to consider but they won’t make a huge difference... 50 years ago, my F weight and balance didn’t include oil in the empty weight. Newer airplanes do. Also, stuff like fire extinguishers, towbars, etc weren’t included but some of that stuff is in newer airplanes.

Yep definitely the fuel weight has got to be an error. I’m surprised with your aft cg as well... is the battery aft? Is there a lot of heavy equipment in the aft avionics compartment? Something doesn’t seem right...

Probably none. I seriously doubt the Faa cares about the red line and the USAF is barely able to communicate within DOD, never mind another agency. I’m sorry that happened, but I bet those SPs were quick to stop you because it happens all the time in that exact spot and the bureaucracy is too terribly busy with paperwork to put up a big red stop sign. And yeah, with no keys or special codes you can get a “locked” F-15 airborne in about 7 minutes. And that’s if you wait for the INS to spin up!

Check and make sure the breaker is still good. Simple test with voltmeter. They wear out, build resistance and heat up. Normally won’t reset until cooling down if they are hot. Any idea how old the breaker is?

^^^what he said. 50ROP is the worst place to be. 100 ROP or 20 Lop would both be cooler. Lean of peak is usually much cooler.

Just to add to my list of engine shops, or not, who did you get the cylinder from? Is it overhauled or new? Seems that our angle valve cylinders are tougher to come by and extra expensive. Was the engine shop ok?

Jeez, you’re having a rough trip back from Osh! Is the cylinder issue resolved? Hope your airplane is fixed soon!

I’m in the exact same situation here with an IO-360. Oil use went from 6 hrs/qt to 3.5 over a couple flights (chrome cylinders, so 6/qt was just fine before). No indication from the engine monitor. Egt and cht looks the same as before. Mag checks are good. Exhaust might be a bit oily or it’s just me. Performance seems normal too. I’m about to start down the trail of checking the plugs and borescope to figure out which one it is. 2 newish cylinders, 2 x 900 hours cylinders due to the same exhaust valve issues as the OP. Heres to hoping not to pull another cylinder!

Did you notice any changes in oil consumption or oil analysis?

Sounds like you’re doing just fine learning about your airplane and keeping it safe. My cht is also warmest on #3, #2 is about the same. 1/4 are much cooler. The airflow is really weird in there. So speedwise, I’d say you’re fine. If I was you, I’d check out your baffles/doghouse and make sure it’s sealed really good. You should be able to takeoff & climb full rich, then lean just enough to keep the takeoff egt as you climb at 120mph without pulling power or cooking a cylinder. I applaud you for keeping it 380ish or below, but I would want to fix your cooling airflow so I didn’t have to pull power in the climb. Otherwise, sounds good!

Awesome, you’ve got everything you need to check against others. You can use a simple online calculator for density altitude too since you had your altitude and temp. In my opinion, your in the normal range for a stock airplane. It is interesting that your cylinder was that warm in cruise. Usually the higher airspeed in cruise cools it. What was it in the climb? Lean of peak at a lower altitudes will likely give you cooler cylinders and same speed.

I track mine vs Hobbs time. 10gph. I usually run 100 rich of peak but high altitudes, like 10-11, so fuel flow is about 10.5-11. Ground time brings that down to 10 gallons per hobbs hour, almost exactly. Yours seems pretty dang close.