Yetti

Avery labels.... Laser printer... I still have not found the part number inking machine that Mooney uses to put part numbers on stuff. But it is fun to look through McMaster Carr. That is a sealed relay. You would have to bend the metal crimp to get inside it. Betting you could find the same thing with a Bosch part number

I think I made this too hard. Cut a hole in the vent below the fresh air. I would suggest a knockout punch to create the hole. if you can't get the knockout punch down the scoop, then hole saw. Measure to make sure the pilot bit does not go to the outside of the vent. drill pilot holes for the three screws and install. Not an air frame mechanic.

On the F is seems like the pilot side is just a hole cut into the side where the outside vent is and three screws to hold the eyeball vent. The starboard side has the tubing for the Fresh air vent. Getting the angle correct so it blows back would be the challenge. Seems like a hole cut into the side of the fresh air tubing attachment would work. I don't think the parts manual shows enough detail of the fresh air venting. The fresh air SCAT tubing is a pain to take off and replace since it is an oval vent hole. Can you take pictures? Also the top of the outside vent has holes with tubing that cool the radios. You might be reducing airflow too much with your new vent..

Somebody found some J parts and decided to make a plane out of it

I would follow Jet Driven 1. Check Prop governor screen - if OK then 2. Buy a new Cylinder from Air power and ship to Mechanic have him install. Flush oil system 3. Fly it home. 4. Send old #3 cylinder out for overhaul $500 or so. 5. When you have an off week swap out your next lowest compression cylinder with the overhauled. Change oil and review filter. 6. You may also have Mechanic ream the exhaust valve guides on all the other cylinders while he is replacing the #3 7. Keep working through your cylinders till you have a top overhauled engine. .

I was thinking about doing some updates with vinyl.... rivets and vinyl don't seem to match well

Not sure but it caused higher blood pressure as screens are fuel screens are something on the Mooney Check list for Annuals. The last annual was before I owned it. lots of things were missed.

Have you checked the servo screen?

This is what came out of mine....

Did you clean the screen on the fuel servo?

What started this investigation was my transition pilot was concerned about over speed as when leveling out mine will go a little above 2700. So we checked the Tach with a cheap RC optical tach. And I have checked it with my phone app. So we agreed the mechanical tach was pretty accurate. The transition pilot is very good mechanically and pilot wise. Only when I started reading the documentation do I find out that we are not close to over speeding the Prop or engine. The Type data sheet is the only thing that says 2700. Does the TDS say 2700 because of earlier models and it would have required a bunch more flight testing and FAA paperwork to change it? Which is probably the best guess.

Which is probably what the engineer before him had told him.... This could get crazy fun discussion - http://www.avweb.com/news/airman/182418-1.html Anyone have a Mac http://www.seqair.com/benchmark/ think I remember reading was the Wright Brothers propeller was at 60% efficiency and we have only moved it to say 75% efficient.

So a summation view is that people climb out based on what they were taught and sometimes add sound to that and pull back the prop RPMs. What I was hoping to hear was. a 74 inch prop at 2700 RPM is not at peak efficiency. It really should be spinning at 2800 or 2850 depending on temperature to be at peak efficiency. Lycoming says the engine is good to 2900 (would not 2900 be a more accurate WOT) It is only the Type data sheet that limits down to 2700. Even at 3200RPM the tips of the 74 inch prop are not supersonic. So why does the type data sheet say 2700?

I don't think welding cast alum would work. Now someone with a lathe and milling machine could knock that out in no time. I can't remember if I saw that in a Cleavland wheel catalog or LASAR website. Took a quick scan through the wheel catalog and did not see it. If the wheel would support it you could go to the later hub caps that are held on with 3 screws to the tire rim.

Which is kind of like a factory re-manufactured. A bunch of used parts checked if they are within tolerance and put together. But since it is the Lycoming they get got 0 time the engine.

If the cam is OK then I would go with a new number 3 cylinder. You can get a lycoming Cylinder from Plane power for about $2K. flush all the oil related items if there was contamination which there probably is. our engines are known for not getting enough oil to lubricate the valves. It cokes up, they stick, the engine eats them. This is a good read. http://egaa.home.mindspring.com/engine1.htm They need to check all the other cylinders exhaust valves wobble test and possibly ream them.

Mine spanned 4 1/2 days. Pulling panels is a good days worth of work. To inspect everything on the checklist would take a day. Replacing panels and recowling is a day. This was the first time the IA had seen the plane so I spent an evening researching the AD list. Then we spent several hours reviewing it. I would say the IA spent a half day on documentation because it was new to him. Would go faster next time. Extras were replace 1 flexible brake line and bleed. Replace the front main seal. Probably added a day of time.

I always like the idea of steel balls as it would mimic the english wheel process. Hand working metal fascinates me

Seems like liquid nitrogen like they use to burn off the pre cancers would be a lot more pin point application. Shrinking metal would be the theory

I would go with this if you want to be sure...

It was the car egress hammer that my mom gave to me with the seat belt cutter thingy like you suggested. I used the pointy side. Did you try it from inside the plane? I think the slight bend/tension that is in the window would help to break it, but hitting it from the inside would be less effective. Also a bigger piece would need more force. It would also follow that I would expect the crash to help break some of the windows. Not an engineer, just a business major that likes to break things

There was some broken cloud cover. Nearest airport button. Circle to land Tell ATC "unable" a bunch of times and tell them to clear a path.

lost a mag. Lost #3 cylinder.

yay flaps. There is a pin on the outboard side on each seat back. I found to have them unlatched and slightly forward makes getting to the pin a bit easier. I am tall enough I could reach in the baggage compartment and pull them out. Also had the passenger seat out to put them back in.Make sure to include the seat belt when reinstalling. Also flashlight helps.

I am listing the hammer as probable. I took a small piece of 1/4 plexiglass The first three strikes only put three indention. This was hand held with one edge on concrete. The fourth hit was braced on both edges. The fifth hit was really good swing and it broke. I am still not sure on a larger more flexible piece it would work. And I am popping the door latch and shoving something to hold it open.