Yetti

I am kind of with Bonal on this. A $2 AMU pre buy (1 AMU the prebuy and 1AMU on logistics) on a $35K plane is a lot of money compared to $2 AMU on $250 AMU plane. And you now don't have the 2 AMU to spend on fixing it up. Which you will most likely be spending anyways pre buy or not. I missed that it had been in annual for the last 2 years. I am also thinking the engine rebuild it prior to all the bad metallurgy years. Older engine rebuild is not always a bad thing. See if they will give you a copy of the AD compliance list One of your negotiating points is that they are a long way from most buyers

One of the seat backs was not put in correctly. Yes redid all of the interior in leather and new carpet for $750 and a $70.00 sewing machine and 4 needles.

The reclining tops spring pins are on the outside pivot point. There is an L spring loaded rod that you pull. Then move the top to the inside and the inside pivot point will let go. The earlier comment about backs in first before seat bottom I don't think will work. The seat belt on the outside has to go over the spring loaded pin. Going straight down seemed to work best to get them in. Along with a flash light. It is not easy.

" an interesting project" Do you just want to fly or work on things and have a great plane when you get done fixing it. I would say $10K to fix it up to airworthy not including avionics. Engines are a crapshoot.

If you have the strip of carpeted card board between the seats and the baggage compartment they are under there And how long are the rear rods? And who's fault is it that I did plane things without getting to fly? Grumble Also found that the bottom of the new seat that I sewed is an inch longer than the original. Time to stitch in a new seam.

pictures at 11:00

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/switches/pushbutton-switches/1114209?k=push+button+switch&pv183=23&pv130=1&pv235=9&FV=fff40011%2Cfff80061&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

They must have gone to J yoke in 76. or it was converted. My Mongo 75 yoke definitely have the map light on the left side down below the PTT.

yep two rods. I think the back clips line up with the outside edges of the covers. just behind the last row. Not sure the back clips are that necessary for it all to work. Some how when I sewed my seat up it was a bit long so the rear is not clipped.

The rebuilt fuel pump seems to run at 30psi at full throttle

I was under the impression that Mooney test flys the planes unpainted. Then paints them. Best I can tell Mooney painted with all the control surfaces on the airframe.

If you hook the rear first, then hook the front rod, not so bad to do. Sitting on the seat compresses the spring

My hooks are put in with #4 screws. The same screws as the covers to the spar area. I have the split removeable seat backs. It is easier to put the seat backs in then the bottom cushion. The seat belts make the two rod thing for the rear retention necessary.

Being able to stop the flow of thick oil in a down angle seems to be the key to eliminating drips. I cut half off half the flexible tubing. You can bend the tubing to cut the flow along with the valve at the bottle. I learned not to have the dipstick in while trying to add oil

I think it would make a mess that no one would want to clean up. Moving further south would work better

I love looking at the pictures of snow.... From Texas

And I did repair one split on a window plastic with Goop since I was in a hurry. Seems to be holding up so far.

do you have electric trim? Now I am going to have to look again.

75F map light button is on the left side of the yoke. Pictures may help. I would not get too technical about the replacement. Digikey has lots of push button switches.

There is no dual instruction in a F-18. Think about that one. Solo in a trainer., finish up in the mooney

I thought you wanted a "glass" cover made. For the plastic part. I would be thinking to vacuum bag some fiberglass cloth with resin to the backside. Then vinyl cut out sticker to freshen up the front side indicator. And replace all the screws with stainless. And put in some shoulder harnesses. I was getting on a flight to OKC and a guy with an NTSB shirt was behind me. he asked if I had a plane. Then asked if I had shoulder harnesses. Then asked if I had the gear warning pipped into the headset.

Of all the places you could stick a camera putting it in front of the horn aerodynamic balance arm would seem to be the worst position on the airplane. But hey to each his own. I have some jack points that will make for really good gimble remote control mounts. Static mounts are so yesterday. This was a fun read. Much of it way over my head, but it was good to know that even the engineers don't really know all the answers when it come to flutter. http://www.nasa.gov/centers/dryden/pdf/88390main_H-2077.pdf

Home Depot They have lots of plexiglass and acrylic sheeting sizes to choose from. Saw, dremel tool and sandpaper will have you going. Make one out of cardboard first if you need a pattern to bring home. Or take a pencil and paper to make a tracing.

I always thought this would be fun to do in the car. Have a HUD and targeting system use the phone as a radar. Other players on the high way would show up on the radar first shot in range that is a hit wins. Only for the passenger of course. Could work in the plane with ADSB with 978 UAT Plane to plane transmission. This is more real idea. Take the FatShark telemetry from the RC world, use one of the PIco projectors with some plexiglass to create a HUD for GA planes

Learned a new term today. Horn aerodynamic balance. (While doing company security training of course)