Yetti

The joy of CA. In most states they would stick a flare in there and light it off. Sure that there is no way to get the permits to do that in CA. The other weird thing is having high pressure gas that has odorant in it. Most states don't have the odorizer till after the town station.

There are a fair amount of caps for sale on flea bay

There are 3 o-ring per side. Two of them are 010 and seal the shaft. Then an 338 for the outer ring. The shaft of the lever is steel so some emery cloth can clean that up. I used Jet Lube to keep things smooth They should not be hard to open. They are easy to service. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00138384I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055E1RLM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009CFNL46?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

For a new concept, I am farther away from the yoke and panel and closer to the roof. I wanted something that was out of scan but closer to my face. The verdict is out, but it is still in the plane. Pretty much in the way of the radios, but very viewable by passenger and pilot. It is clamped where the throttle cables are held on the co pilots side. There is a welded cross piece for the tube structure. http://www.dx.com/p/lr360-universal-360-degree-rotating-holder-for-tablet-pc-black-233173#.VrNNCFn__EY

well the Type Data in the link for the B says A1A or A1D....

The Type Data Sheet http://www.67m20e.com/Mooney%20TCDS%202A3%20Rev%2052%20dtd%209DEC10.pdf A1D or A1A for the C model Page 11

Is there not a bunch up front by the pedals behind the zippered cloth thingys?

I thought you were going to say it is on the ground missing a prop at Dallas Executive

And it is possible that mine was done with black paint. It just seemed to look factory. Built in late 1974. Based on the SB, I would guess the factory painting started in 1976.

I would be surprised to be able to get a nut on the back side. If the holes are wallered out, Move over a bit and then alum tape the old holes. You could also go to a #6 screw but that may make it harder to hook the rod. Deduct the weight savings from your W&B and enjoy the extra couple knots speed increase. Stainless screws are good for a .005 knot increase.

Realizing of course the 1970s planes roll cage was painted with real epoxy paint and it should not be as big a concern. For 60s planes yes a concern.

I would think: Don't really want fiberglass parts being blown around the radios and cabin. There is positive ventilation provided up there from the starboard side intake vent and clear line. Don't want water logged stuff on top of electronics Don't want insulation blocking the airflow to the radios and such. As far as sealing the access panels. Pulled the gunky foam out of the channels. stainless wire brushed the glue out. Used two part contact cement below to put in I believe 1/2" round caulk backer (Ace Hardware - maybe says for driveways). Plane has not been in the rain to see if it works, but by my shade tree gineering I can't see why not.

I still think there is room for some enterprising person to make a conversion to firestone air bags

Nice work. I repainted the leather accent on the panels and the arm rests with regular Rustolem from wally world just to annoy Big Tex. It has held up very well. The Rustolem on the panels is doing very well also.

My lottery plane is a Pilatus

Are you sure that did not drop from above when the filter came off?

I am kind of with Bonal on this. A $2 AMU pre buy (1 AMU the prebuy and 1AMU on logistics) on a $35K plane is a lot of money compared to $2 AMU on $250 AMU plane. And you now don't have the 2 AMU to spend on fixing it up. Which you will most likely be spending anyways pre buy or not. I missed that it had been in annual for the last 2 years. I am also thinking the engine rebuild it prior to all the bad metallurgy years. Older engine rebuild is not always a bad thing. See if they will give you a copy of the AD compliance list One of your negotiating points is that they are a long way from most buyers

One of the seat backs was not put in correctly. Yes redid all of the interior in leather and new carpet for $750 and a $70.00 sewing machine and 4 needles.

The reclining tops spring pins are on the outside pivot point. There is an L spring loaded rod that you pull. Then move the top to the inside and the inside pivot point will let go. The earlier comment about backs in first before seat bottom I don't think will work. The seat belt on the outside has to go over the spring loaded pin. Going straight down seemed to work best to get them in. Along with a flash light. It is not easy.

" an interesting project" Do you just want to fly or work on things and have a great plane when you get done fixing it. I would say $10K to fix it up to airworthy not including avionics. Engines are a crapshoot.

If you have the strip of carpeted card board between the seats and the baggage compartment they are under there And how long are the rear rods? And who's fault is it that I did plane things without getting to fly? Grumble Also found that the bottom of the new seat that I sewed is an inch longer than the original. Time to stitch in a new seam.

pictures at 11:00

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/switches/pushbutton-switches/1114209?k=push+button+switch&pv183=23&pv130=1&pv235=9&FV=fff40011%2Cfff80061&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

They must have gone to J yoke in 76. or it was converted. My Mongo 75 yoke definitely have the map light on the left side down below the PTT.

yep two rods. I think the back clips line up with the outside edges of the covers. just behind the last row. Not sure the back clips are that necessary for it all to work. Some how when I sewed my seat up it was a bit long so the rear is not clipped.