Yetti

But it begs the question if the rear passengers recline their seats should you move them to the baggage compartment station.

11/2014 1/2025 2-600-6 tire 152.00 251.90 1-500-5 tire 63.00 102.96 1-500 Tube 53.95 111.95 2-600 Tube 109.90 191.90 before taxes and shipping 228.41 658.71

The 75 F had a Cuttler Hammer or Potter Brumfield from the factor so I guess Mooney got wise and upgraded the amperage.

solder is a cruel factory trick. Nothing hurts quite like when it drops on your skin. The F are ring terminals. I think I calculated the much failed comms relay up under the panel is undersized for the King suite of Avionics. and most of them failed. My gear solenoid is similar to a 4 post solenoid off a N Model Ford tractor.

On the F there are two relays and only half the relay is used. So you can move the wires to the other side of the relay and that should still work. I do have a spare flap relay that I found online.

SWTC is still in business at Smithville Airport. They also had a newer version of the wingtips they can do. https://www.swta.net/

looks good. Smaller casters and one less brick might improve things just a bit.

I would say the gear swing is part of changing a tire. So is removal and replace of the brake caliper to get the wheel off. Took me about 4 hours yesterday to do all three tires. Tires have doubled in price from 10 years ago.

I started looking at it to upgrade an older panel. It looks like for $5K in UAvionix Gear and $5K for a Garmin 175 you can have a complete panel upgrade. For ADSB In they are relying on their remote portable boxes. For Ipads. They also have the interface for the S-Tech Auto pilots. The install would be really easy. Just need an 8 conductor run back to the tail and done. And you would be able to remove the vacuum system if the plane does not have the Brittain system.

take some cribbing also. 2x4 and 4x4 cut to 12" 16" Jack and inch crib and inch Also can be used to raise the jack.

I would say it is probably accurate if you drop the lower cowl. It is pain. And you do have to get to the Right rear bolt on the starter. What I do is take the alternator off to get to that bolt. By taking the alternator off you don't have to drop the lower cowl. Getting to the mounting bolts on the alternator are a pain. If you went from the Prestolite starter to a newer one then they had to do some mods to the front baffling around the starter. Also count updating the paperwork and Weight and Balance update. Also might need to update Equipment list. I would put it that for the most part they did not pad the hours, It really could take someone that long. Next time try asking what they thing it will take to do the work before work is started. I always write the check out for the Annual more than what is on the bill, and he makes me do most of the work.

Because the lower support behind the panel is below the yoke shaft. But cutting a slot is the way to go.

or if you have a leaky Lycoming, they are self lubricating.

Do you have an approximate manufacture date of the cam and lobes? I am still holding to the theory that the 1990s cams/lifters had bad metallurgy.

This is the short version of what Cliffy wrote. Your mechanic does not know what they are doing and is scamming you. There are some washers that have ridges on them if you have the original washers. They go against the hemi ball. The washer with ridges are actually little bushings that go into the ball. It looks like one on the lower left may be installed on the outside of the door tang. Even so to get the doors to work best, the right number of washers need to be installed between the joint and the two door tangs. Your picture shows two washers on the outside of the tang and that is wrong. that looks like a nose door. The drawing posted above is for the main gear. Find the parts manual and look up the drawing.

One is for the panel lighting. ie glareshield lighting and one is for the Instrument lights ie it goes to the radios that have a separate lead for lighting internal to the unit.

Looks like an ongoing problem. Hole was created. Someone riveted a fiberglass doubler over the hole. muffler chewed through the doubler. Grind out around the hole and use some mat and resin to repair. Don't mix epoxy and polyester resin. Sand smooth and paint to match. Getting at why the hole gets chewed open is pretty important step.

https://forum.cessna170.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10931&sid=b89002e7145822b19c7ee39834c13031&start=15

It used to be that on a commercial flight the plane had flares and a launcher I think they were required. My friend was going through a Bonanza that still had the wiring for the flare launcher.

Correct, unless the Com relay has failed and then it will not open. Again you need to know if your 275 are wired into the Master buss or the Comm Buss.

It will be interesting to see. Let's say the EPA was disbanded under the incoming Administration. What happens to all the rules they generated? At least in Texas there are duplicative rules and an Agency to pick up some of the void. I am entertained by the ability of the Executive Branch Administration to create Government. There is this thing called PAYGO that Biden exempted the Administrative Government from when he came in. PAYGO was congresses way to get control of the spending.

There was a guy in Texas that did the impossible turn in a Mooney last year. Let me see if I can find it. All my landings are set up to be a power off 180. Runway about 25% under the wing on downwind. U turn to land. With power I just go a bit further out. If the engine were to quit and would start the U turn immediately The other thing you really want to have committed to muscle memory is push over on departure if the engine quits. Go up high set up for Take off and then cut the throttle. You want your push over to be immediate then worry about best glide once you got the nose pointed down.

I think you are correct here. So is the only law that congress made is to say the FAA should make flying safe. The rest is just made up rules that could go out the window in light of the Chevron Ruling.

Correct. The Com relay with no power on it is Closed. This way if the Com relay fails it fails so the radios keep working.

I am suggesting he use a welder to tack it and then have a good welder weld it. The funny thing here is it looks like the "professional" welder who did it last time did not get any penetration and that is why it broke. So much for the professionals. Also a good welder would have ground the rod so it fit properly into the angle steel before welding.