Yetti
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Everything posted by Yetti
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The list of planes I don't fit in is long. all the Piper 4 seaters. Some of the early Bonanzas. The Cessna 172 I could fly, but with my head up so high my view was really limited. It's was amazing how much better my visibility is in the Mooney over the 172
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As long as you are just tall, you will be fine. I have set in several and found that sometimes when the seats are rebuilt some get more foam put in the seat so they sit a bit taller. There is a mod to drill another couple holes in the rail to move the seat back. I found that kneeling on the passenger seat spin around to get in. Then I have started exiting to the front of the wing between the door and the leading edge is a bit more graceful getting out. I carry about 3 pillows for passengers
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Is cruising at lower power bad for the engine?
Yetti replied to RescueMunchkin's topic in General Mooney Talk
I have run my A1A 24/24 for the 6 years that I owned it. It always gets 79 or 80 on the compression tests. It is fun to do 21/21 for a bit as the plane feels completely different but this is the more like the landing speed and teaches you how it feels when landing. -
some bit of info. Cessna also used this actuator as a flap actuator. I never figured out the cross reference number. I have been through the disconnect gears and they are well made. The biggest thing that would fail would be the motor and probably could be fixed with a set of brushes. It's basically a side window motor and could probably find it on an old ford.
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Just curious is this an issue on say like an Ovation?
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In the older models ie 75 F The avonics switch Turns the relay off when energized. ie applies power to the relay which uses opens the NC circuit. This is the fail safe if the relay fails, the avionics will still stay powered. The key switch to starter solenoid positive wire also goes to the avionics relay and applies power, which kills the avionics by opening the NC relay.
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I have center drills. It has more to do with centering in the chuck and the rod not staying square to the chuck for the part that is not in the chuck. I found it better to cut to length on table saw and then put in a jig, then drill.
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I found that putting a hole in the exact middle of the rod to be quite challenging. The plastic likes to grab the bit and take it off center. I ended up with a square jig in a vise to hold the round rod. I have kind of moved on and now building a 300 gallon water tank from HDPE sheets for a HMMWV fire truck.
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yes. I guess I should check to see how they are wearing. Have not thought about it, so must be ok
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How do you close off the cooling air to the avionics bay?
Yetti replied to AndreiC's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
I think that is poorly worded. My F has louvered vent on the Left side of the skin near the baggage compartment. There is not a vent in the inside sidewall panel in the baggage compartment. So airflow would between the sidewall and the skin of the plane. Thus creating airflow behind the panel from the right vent with the tube attached. -
It's a decision process between you and your IA. Find out what they want.
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And the FAA and DOT are under the same US government department. But can I use my FAA medical for a DOT medical for a CDL. NO.
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I used sheet aluminum covered with cow hides. The pattern for the alum was the cardboard stuff covered in moss Green carpet. I over cut the alum by an inch and then bent the edge over. This gave them some stiffness. Used contact cement to glue the leather down to. https://leatherhidestore.com/ The Mooney is Certed under CAR3. The burn test is a AC (not regulatory). I did my own burn test following the AC. used the same piece of leather for all three tests and it did not burn through. You are supposed to use a new piece for each test. There are several weights of leather.
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yep, but he may have popped one in the overvoltage state. Probably not, but you are in there.
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Get the plug that matches. I think I had the same question on a 75 F model. The matching plug will be plug and play. My Regulator is outside the cabin on the firewall. While you are in there you might want to check for two black inline fuses. Check the fuses.
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The ground is important to all the things in that part of the panel. It could be they removed the ground.
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I have used https://www.meguiars.com/node/20783 on everything from boat plexigas to HMMWV plastic windows. Use it for daily cleaning of airplane windows. Think overtime it will get the plastic windows better and better
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The last line. configure for take off up high and have an instructor pull the throttle. You want the push over to be immediate and with authority and not thinking about it. Then you figure out your options. Had this taught to me on Flight Review and then used it when the engine stumbled at Midland. I asked the passenger who was also a pilot with me when I pushed over. He said it was immediate. I don't remember doing it.
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Long wait for DPE in Houston area (months)
Yetti replied to redbaron1982's topic in General Mooney Talk
Consider checking in San Antonio and or Austin and flying there to do it. College Station too. -
if you add up the steam guage OH costs, you can get into glass for about the same.
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Daytona Aircraft Services. Call me when you have a part number?
Yetti replied to Jrags's topic in General Mooney Talk
I would have called the local hot rod shop and see who they use a speedometer shop. Pulled the inner cable and wandered down there to get one made. Not sure if this would work or if you have to have the press to square the ends. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/atp-universal-speedometer-core-repair-kit-120-yc-101/17190220-P?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=17190220-P&adtype=pla&product_channel=online&store_code=&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKurBhD5ARIsALamXaGBvnPFd5Xc1Wxtw0akjM4lW2tQEZsn5K5DoGz1AJoA_YZNl6b9DmsaAss1EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds -
seems like it would be a great pattern to make a new one from scratch.
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yep. also works for being old and trying to read parts tags in hard places.
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What kind of leak and where? If the screws on the plates that can be fixed with some Permetex 3. Just don't leave it topped off would be the best solution.
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Ya I looked at that one also. The AP is better than a King. There are better deals on Ovations than having to do a top end to that engine. What would a top end cost on the 550 from a G to an N? Also did not think it had the STC to 310HP so is that available?
