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Everything posted by Yetti
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I have done a Mighty Vac on the reservoir. You can get an acceptable level of pedal. Then Push with the oil can to get the final bubbles out.
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My IA questioned the Blue O-rings on the gas caps. I brought him the datasheet saying fluorosilicone were more better. All good.
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There does not seem to be a AN Standard for valves. Probably because there are other standards. Aeroquip is just hoses. But Eaton has some PMA valves, Not sure this is one of them, but it is Eaton kind of Aeroquip. $50 is cheaper than the leaky ones. https://www.hydraulic-supply.com/ff90587-08.html
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I think I saw that one when I bought the last one. My thought was why am I paying $150 for something that can be rebuilt meaning it would fail and I would have to spend time fixing it. A stainless ball valve would be $14.00 and has a lock on the opening and could safety tie the handle. oil would drain much faster too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Guardian-1-2-in-316-Stainless-Steel-1000-PSI-2-Piece-Full-Port-Ball-Valve-06Q201N04012/321581091?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&srsltid=AfmBOopSn6YWmK7XhPA1aFFcx8UfRFKMrWbGSRIAzhPZq9FHI86ivUG3xEA
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They all seem to leak. Has anyone replaced the expensive leaky quick drain with a simple ball or gate valve?
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The pumping up with an oil can from the caliper bleeder has always worked for me. You have to have a good oil can with no leaks. Small piece of tubing and pump rapidly to push the air out. 10 pumps should do it. 20 pumps if it is bad. Safety wire the tubing to the oil can. Shorter tubing about 3". bleed the tubing and don't push air into the system. Have someone watch the reservoir and you should see the bubbles. Also a Turkey injector to remove extra oil. What is an oil can you ask. https://www.zoro.com/goldenrod-oiler-6-fl-oz-capacity-steel-5-in-spout-length-6-oz-reservoir-capacity-600/i/G9972462/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=20749401279&productid=G9972462&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkuqvBhAQEiwA65XxQJYdbCLuQpsKINw0q9ZFk-2SOACb9QkjirC5f3TPEPtcbfdq0b4U5xoCIkEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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I recently found the fuel gauge table in the Dynon Sky view is editable. Using my wood paint stir calibrated stick and the current voltage and the stick I am making the measurements pretty darn accurate.
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You need a better relationship with your IA. The IA trusts me to do work every now and then I help him on other planes. I trust him with the log books, cause it makes his job easier. He does not charge me enough for the inspection and I write the check for a bit more.
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look for terminal blocks on amazon. There are some pretty spiffy stuff.
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and can check the fuel hose attach to the tank and the Sender unit for leaks.
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You can also check behind the panels with an inspection camera.
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Grounds are also another problem. A fair amount of mine go to the ground screws located on the copilots side where the comm relay is located. I used one of these for grounds in the HMMWV fire truck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C4W7YKG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Never have done ACF, Never will. Adds weight and creates a big mess. We check the spar and the other corrosion points each year.
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So over the weekend I thought if one plug was cracked. Maybe I should check them all. These are the REM37BY. They have the longer nose that were put in because one of the cylinders was a bit oily. Of the other three 1 had part of the insulator cracked away. One had a hairline crack on the insulator and the other I could not find an issue. So I put 3 new in and will have to contact Champion. The log books are at the IA, so not sure when these were put into service.
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On my third piece of wire for the alternator tensioning bolt I knew it was time to quit.
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Alternator mounting bolts were loose. - tigtened strobe light one side was out - Replaced with AeroLEDs - $1000.00 Have old ones for sale Compression on number 1 was wonky/leaking would sometimes come up. Staked, no bueno. Tossed valve into cylinder and reamed with .4995 ream. Used grabby things through spark plug hole and top of cylinder and screw driver through bottom spark hole to get valve back in. found cracked insulator of bottom plug. Replaced. Retested compression and passed with 78. Greased landing gear Washed engine down with mineral spirits. Replaced fancy ELT battery $275.00 Emergency gear test. Lubed all pivots with Triflow Pitot/static test passed on Dynon. May have leaky legacy ASI
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I rebuilt the wires to the alternator about 6 years ago. I had a voltage failure last year. I replaced the brushes in the alternator as a first step. Then replaced the voltage regulator and solved the voltage issue. Best I can tell the brushes and alternator are from 1974. Won't worry about that for a good while.
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at annual. One of the valves was not closing all the way. Which resulted in hammering out of the exhaust valve. and then reaming the crud out of the guide with a .4995 ream. We pulled the Champion BY plug (longer plug for oil fouling.) half the insulator for the electrode was gone. These plugs were replaced about 4-5 years ago so same time frame. Excited to fire the engine up and see how she runs. There was a tiny bit of morning sickness for a quick period of time.
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If you will note the F is listed on the certification schedule. "Mooney M20 Exact submodels and serial number ranges are TBD and subject to change. Dynon's M20J demonstrator aircraft represents “mid-body” M20F-M20K airplanes, and models within this group are the most likely to be approved in this project. The M20-M20E “short-body” airplanes are similar; it may be possible to approve some of these in this project as well. This project is not likely to include an approval for “long-body” M20L-M20V airplanes." Dynon tried going through Alaska but it still goes through Seattle for the Baron.
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This is all on the FAA. Their miss on the Boeing is what gummed up the works. Basically the paperwork for Dynon sits on the desk for months at time waiting for the guy to sign off. People have tried several ways around the Seattle guy. But all the Autopilot stuff goes through there. The Baron is done. So maybe the Mooney will get it's way through. For those that ask, the Autopilot software is already in the Skyview screens/computer. Along with the D10A has the autopilot software. It is just a matter of hooking up the servos and configuring the autopilot. Funny enough when they sell you the system the STC for the Autopilot is included as part of the whole system, so the plane is kind of already STCed for the Autopilot.
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The list of planes I don't fit in is long. all the Piper 4 seaters. Some of the early Bonanzas. The Cessna 172 I could fly, but with my head up so high my view was really limited. It's was amazing how much better my visibility is in the Mooney over the 172
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As long as you are just tall, you will be fine. I have set in several and found that sometimes when the seats are rebuilt some get more foam put in the seat so they sit a bit taller. There is a mod to drill another couple holes in the rail to move the seat back. I found that kneeling on the passenger seat spin around to get in. Then I have started exiting to the front of the wing between the door and the leading edge is a bit more graceful getting out. I carry about 3 pillows for passengers
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Is cruising at lower power bad for the engine?
Yetti replied to RescueMunchkin's topic in General Mooney Talk
I have run my A1A 24/24 for the 6 years that I owned it. It always gets 79 or 80 on the compression tests. It is fun to do 21/21 for a bit as the plane feels completely different but this is the more like the landing speed and teaches you how it feels when landing. -
some bit of info. Cessna also used this actuator as a flap actuator. I never figured out the cross reference number. I have been through the disconnect gears and they are well made. The biggest thing that would fail would be the motor and probably could be fixed with a set of brushes. It's basically a side window motor and could probably find it on an old ford.