Yetti

I have an RSA 5 on mine. I recall it being tight. The B&C starter was put on a while back wonder if they have changed them

Put the flare in the ittty bitty tubing on the MP line and reassembled. Recowled the plane. Test flight later today. Oh and I polished the spinner, so that should add about 10 mph

I was back when it was 10 hours with an instructor. The instructor was a Mooney Safety Instructor. I asked him when he was signing me off if "Am I Safe?" He said yes. But you will keep learning till you fly it better. It took about 90 hours in the Mooney till I was very confident and flows were down pat. On my recent flight review with another Mooney Safety Instructor, he warned me that I was fixing to get a work out. After the initial thing of flying with a better pilot, there was really nothing that was that hard and I did not sweat it. The one thing was he wanted half flaps on take off and full flaps on landings. The first Mooney Instructor is not a half flaps on take off. The POH says flaps as required. So it was a break from the normal flows. Full flaps on landings are if I FUBAR the approach and too high. The hardest thing was he took over the comms so doing the division of duties was strange. It's a journey, not a point in time. Enjoy the Journey.

Did you contact the manufacture support? I would think there is a calibration or self test routine. When driving in the snow muck in Colorado my truck informed me that the Front Camera was dirty. My thought was "Why tell me and expect me to do something about it. Clean it yourself fancy truck"

Try the Salvage in Greely Colorado they had an F they were parting out several years back

I Just drilled out a 4x4 wood block with a fly bit. It works.

Hmmm I have a B&C on my IO-360 A1A in my model F.

Well since we know most incidents are Part 91 pilots flying without a flight plan, I think we are safe.

I am just trying to understand. It's a weird situation. Essentially you are asking the IA to sign the plane off as being safe for you, your family, your pets. But yet we can't trust them with the log books which we can agree have some value at buying or selling time (another topic since only required to keep a year). And reading @EricJ response the FAA is saying we can't trust the safety of the log books with the IA. Of course let's not talk about making the onus of an airworthy airplane on owner/pilots that don't know the difference between fuel injection servo and a carburetor. And let those same owners remove the brake calipers to change a tire, but not trust them with changing the break pads in the rotors they just removed. Going further, I have 4 very expensive Champion Spark Plugs that 3 of 4 broke. The whole reason we are given for spending lots of money on parts is the PMA process. The PMA Spark plugs were known to have issues. https://mooneyspace.com/topic/42826-champion-spark-plugs/ Now given that my deal with the IA is the airplane is airworthy until it crosses his hangar door. As noted in the three issues I found two flights after the annual. Fly it fix it.

So you are saying your annual took a week or 2 and the log books were lost for 3-4 months? I'd be concerned with an IA that can lose log books in 1-2 weeks.

The log books go over along with the AD report from last year AFTER the work is done. As one of my friends said "What's the point of owning a plane if it is in annual for 1/3 of a year."

Oh and now the fix things after the annual update post. First 2 flights after annual the Manifold steam gauge is reading high. Like 29 instead of 24. The #3 CHT is staying around 200. The number 1 CHT and EGT have never worked since the install. Started looking at the wires and seems like the Red does not go to the Red wire and the White does not go to the white wire. Hmmmm Switched those and will test. Wiggle the little MP line at the reducer thingy. Seems loose. Remove line and it has cracked in two pieces. Grumpy IA has the cool little flare tool for the itty bitty line. Wait till tomorrow. I could make the tool, but taxes need doing. Notice the number 3 CHT probe has come out where it was twist locked into. Reinsert and twist lock it again. Was touching the cylinder so kind of doing it's thing.

I have done a Mighty Vac on the reservoir. You can get an acceptable level of pedal. Then Push with the oil can to get the final bubbles out.

My IA questioned the Blue O-rings on the gas caps. I brought him the datasheet saying fluorosilicone were more better. All good.

There does not seem to be a AN Standard for valves. Probably because there are other standards. Aeroquip is just hoses. But Eaton has some PMA valves, Not sure this is one of them, but it is Eaton kind of Aeroquip. $50 is cheaper than the leaky ones. https://www.hydraulic-supply.com/ff90587-08.html

I think I saw that one when I bought the last one. My thought was why am I paying $150 for something that can be rebuilt meaning it would fail and I would have to spend time fixing it. A stainless ball valve would be $14.00 and has a lock on the opening and could safety tie the handle. oil would drain much faster too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Guardian-1-2-in-316-Stainless-Steel-1000-PSI-2-Piece-Full-Port-Ball-Valve-06Q201N04012/321581091?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&srsltid=AfmBOopSn6YWmK7XhPA1aFFcx8UfRFKMrWbGSRIAzhPZq9FHI86ivUG3xEA

They all seem to leak. Has anyone replaced the expensive leaky quick drain with a simple ball or gate valve?

The pumping up with an oil can from the caliper bleeder has always worked for me. You have to have a good oil can with no leaks. Small piece of tubing and pump rapidly to push the air out. 10 pumps should do it. 20 pumps if it is bad. Safety wire the tubing to the oil can. Shorter tubing about 3". bleed the tubing and don't push air into the system. Have someone watch the reservoir and you should see the bubbles. Also a Turkey injector to remove extra oil. What is an oil can you ask. https://www.zoro.com/goldenrod-oiler-6-fl-oz-capacity-steel-5-in-spout-length-6-oz-reservoir-capacity-600/i/G9972462/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=20749401279&productid=G9972462&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkuqvBhAQEiwA65XxQJYdbCLuQpsKINw0q9ZFk-2SOACb9QkjirC5f3TPEPtcbfdq0b4U5xoCIkEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I recently found the fuel gauge table in the Dynon Sky view is editable. Using my wood paint stir calibrated stick and the current voltage and the stick I am making the measurements pretty darn accurate.

There is a CD that you can order from the FAA that has good information about the plane. https://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/aircraft_certification/aircraft_registry/copies_aircraft_records

You need a better relationship with your IA. The IA trusts me to do work every now and then I help him on other planes. I trust him with the log books, cause it makes his job easier. He does not charge me enough for the inspection and I write the check for a bit more.

look for terminal blocks on amazon. There are some pretty spiffy stuff.

and can check the fuel hose attach to the tank and the Sender unit for leaks.

You can also check behind the panels with an inspection camera.

Grounds are also another problem. A fair amount of mine go to the ground screws located on the copilots side where the comm relay is located. I used one of these for grounds in the HMMWV fire truck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C4W7YKG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1