Yetti

Not sure if it was mentioned back there, but apparently when the pilot called 911, the 911 dispatcher told the pilot "To stay on the line"

You should be improving your skills with each flight. People gave me grief for calling out their videos for not landing on the centerline. There is alot of flying skills needed close to the ground when landing. Not so much up in cruise.

It was interesting. I had an interesting topic and could slap some videos together in a couple of hours. Which was good because we were getting about 2 fire calls a week. So between fire work and video, there was little time for work work. What I found entertaining was some of my videos had more views than most of the Texas Forest Service Videos. The big problem is the requirements to start monitizing the videos, you have to have like a 1000 followers. Don't worry there is lots of flying. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCapt_uWVG5TTNuTZ2Gl7g0w This one has the DC-10 tanker close to the ground. Which was impressive.

My alternator has a shroud on the back to connect that to.

I was describing a problem to the grump IA one day and he asked "have you charged the battery?" Hate it when he is right.

Looks like you don't have the split rear seats. A guy put together a file to show how to mod the seat to fold down. The PDF is in this thread.

If you have the spilt seats there is a pin at the pivot point on the outside pivot point that you pull. Lean the seat to the inside and lift out.

We still don't know if the relay failed. It could very well be that the Mechanic misdiagnosed a NC relay for a NO relay.

I think the thin alum with leather was less, but not enough to worry about. There are two or three thickness of leather. If you want lighter leather get car uposltry grade.

Side panels are easy to do. I used some sheet aluminum contact cement and leather. Took about a day per side. https://www.leatherhidestore.com/ Leather is really burn semi proof. I did the three Burn Tests on the same sample of leather and there was no burn through. The Mooney is CAR-3 Certified. This AC is the higher level Burn testing. As we know AC are not regulatory. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjmjf2mh538AhUZl2oFHfcWAycQFnoECAoQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.faa.gov%2FdocumentLibrary%2Fmedia%2FAdvisory_Circular%2FAC_20-178.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2LGDslA6-carZlsD7eWVIH Pretty sure that alum side panel with leather that I built are way more flame resistant than the cardboard carpet ones that came from the factory. Interesting but the guy in San Antonio did not have patterns for the F or at least my model F. So I was forced to roll my own.

In other news, your MPG should increase slightly since you are not dumping fuel overboard.

That was my guess that someone went to the spinning fuel flow sensor over by the pilots feet and forgot to cap this. Probably should have shown up in a fuel line AD inspection to a knowledgeable mechanic.

Nope the 75 F only had a Fuel pressure gauge. I think the Js started with the fuel flow gauges.

I think my fuel pressure line comes off the fuel servo, Maybe comes off divider, can't remember.

To be sure there are two relays on that 1" bar. On my plane the back one is for the landing light relay and the front was the COmm relay. Your mileage may vary.

With all the older radios, they pulled a lot of amps. I think I added it up once and the radio master relay was maxed out on amps. Usually 40 year old relays that are run at max will fail.

Before the J model came along the windscreen was more abrupt angle. so prior F and C models had comm access panels below the windscreen from the out side of the plane that were screwed on with a jilion screws. This allowed access to the back of the panel without pulling the panel. Some planes with the new windscreen had smaller comm access panels lower on the side. If you have one of these the relay is right below it. And I designed the new panel over on the Starboard side easier to pull.

Did we find the model of this plane. The Avionics relay is Normally Closed. So when the master is turned on the Relay engages and goes to Open (no power to the electronics) This way if the relay fails the electronics should stay powered. To venture a guess your mechanic has misdiagnosed the problem unless he knew of the NO relay position. The Comm switch applies power to the relay and make it go to open state (no power to the electronics) There is also a wire that comes from the starter relay. When you apply power to the starter the power is also applied to the Comm Relay and it will turn your avionics off. There is an inline diode that keeps power from flowing back to the starter relay and engaging it. The relay is normally on the passenger right sidewall above the intake duct. There is a rib that has threaded screw holes in it. If you don't have com panes it will be a bith to get to. Read. Take out passenger seat and lay upside down on the floor and work blindly. Possible failures. Bad contacts on the relay. Remember the relay is On in the resting state. The switch or a short sent power to the relay and it opened. Take your phone and take pictures behind the pane of the switch and make sure no screws have dropped down on things. In a pinch a regular automotive Bosch type 5 pin relay has a NC circuit in it and will work just find on 12v systems. So use Pin 30 and 87a for the avionics circuit. https://www.stockwiseauto.com/bosch-0332209158-changeover-mini-relays-5-pins-12-v-20-30-a?gclid=CjwKCAiAqaWdBhAvEiwAGAQltsVuRoRccwPB4DT_Qprzg8wOdAOY1oD6_z2cNIki1E1TOEGUT4ev8hoCp2IQAvD_BwE&

Nice big paint stick from Sherwin Williams. Sharpie. Stick the tank. Mark a line with sharpie. Fill to top. Do some math. Write the number down by the line. I think I have about 5 lines like this on my stick and makes for good. On my 75 F I also have tabs.

When you land on Grass the Dynon shows the Runway as green..... Little things amuse me.

First pic with the straight edge. See the 1" shiny spot around the hole to the right? Then on the bottom of the shiny spot you can see where they used a rotory scrubber wheel. See the half swirl marks. It might be different in the later models, but in my 75' F that hole is used to get to the bolt that holds the end of the actuator. It's a 7/16" socket I think. The IA had a perfectly ground down socket to fit the smaller than yours hole. I think Snap on makes some thin wall sockets that would also fit. You could probably look that part number up in the Parts manual under the empanage section. For the most part I would think the actuator had been lubed and serviced at some point. Also you might want to order the CD for your plane from the FAA. There were a couple of things about my plane that were not in the logs.

It looks like your gear has been improperly worked on. The hole next to the motor looks like it was enlarged and then the edges smoothed. See the missing primer. The hole is how you get to a bolt to get the motor out. My grumpy IA had a ground down long socket that would fit the factory hole. Bending of the tubes is probably due to miss rigging the gear. Best to not mess with the gear unless you need to. Most gear problems can be fixed by doing a good lube. I find the Mooney gear to be fascinating in design and ability to work and pack all the tubes into the wings and such.

Older plastic fittings will shatter when exposed to environmental and or chemicals. Someone might have used acetone or alcohol and the vapors permeated the system. It's not pretty when they crumble in your hands. The diaphragm was probably due to someone screwing up the static test. Probably best to work with him and then later publish the invoice. I don't have any letters behind my name and can do an oil change in a couple of hours, decowl and recowl and test flight and log book entry.

I think we are like 75% survival rate for the last 2 weeks. So there is that.

I have started using Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish on everything. good stuff