Bob - S50

I read something else into the bulletin. Not only does the map show curved lines, but your CDI will reflect whether or not you are following that curved line. Supposed to provide better guidance to roll out exactly on the new course rather than over/under shooting and then having to re-intercept. I'm with the crowd here. If I can talk my partners into updating, I plan to wait at least a couple months and let others find the problems. One report on BeechTalk reported it locked up his unit and he had to ship it back to Garmin for repairs. Only one report though. Many said they experienced no problems.

Immelman, Great data! Based on your findings it appears that with the engine at idle, leaving the prop full forward does a good job of simulating an engine failure with the prop pulled all the way out. Gives me more confidence that I'll be getting realistic practice for the real thing.

You might consider updating your 430 and buying at GTX345. As others have said, that gives you LPV and LP approaches, which I much prefer over the ILS. Given the choice, I'll always pick the LPV. With the GDL84 or GDL88 you have to keep your current transponder. Slight decrease in useful load (about 4 pounds) because you are adding a box rather than replacing one. If you get the 88, it only displays on your GNS, no wireless unless you spend more money to buy a flightstream 110 or 210. And there is some FIS-B data you can't get on your GNS. The 84 is only wireless, no display on your GNS. Both are UAT out. Someday, when Canada and/or Mexico require a mode S transponder, you won't have one. More money. The GTX345 gives you a mode S transponder, replaces a box rather than adding one, displays on your GNS and wirelessly to your tablet; all in one box. From what I can tell, the GDL88 + FS210 is about the same cost as the GTX345. The GDL84 is about $1000 less and includes the WAAS GPS. That saves you about $1000 plus the cost of the GNS upgrade. Of course, adding another GPS means installing another GPS antenna so that will increase the installation cost, and you still wouldn't be able to fly an LPV approach. As the commercial used to say, "you can pay me now, or pay me later." Best of luck, Bob

You said it happens when leveling off. Does that mean there is no problem during the climb? From other posts it sounds like once it happens, it stays that way, correct? If that is the case, I'm wondering what happens during level off that would change something. You gently push on the yoke to lower the nose. That reduces the download on the tail. Could it be that the reduced load on the tail allows something to shift? If the problem persists after you have leveled off (not just during the process of leveling off), have you tried walking the rudder a bit to see if it goes away? During the flights when the problem does not happen, if you walk the rudders a bit does it create the problem?

Steingar. Correct from what I've learned. If you buy a UAT box from FreeFlight or King(rebranded FreeFlight), you have to keep your Mode C transponder. You then have to install two antennas: one for the internal GPS and one for the ADS-B. When your transponder sends out a signal, the UAT box receives the signal, and figures out what the code is. Once it knows the code, it starts sending out the ADS-B signal. If you ever replace your Mode C transponder with a Mode S transponder, that system won't work anymore and you'll have to go back in and run wiring from the new Mode S transponder to the UAT box. I like the 1090 boxes because, like you, I can get rid of an aging transponder and have essentially no change in my weight and balance, not need to add any new antennas (we already have WAAS), and have a Mode S transponder for international flying if we ever decide to go to Canada or Mexico. I just did a check on the Sarasota Avionics site and the GTX345 with the internal WAAS GPS is only $600 more than the one without the GPS. Of course you'll have to install a GPS antenna for it which will also increase install cost. When I talked to Pacific Coast Avionics last weekend, they estimated installed cost for the GTX345 in our plane was about $5300. Add $600 for the GPS and a few hundred for the antenna and installation and I'm guessing you'd come up to something around $6500 to $7000? I also want to do our install pretty soon while our KT76A still has some value on the used market. Best of luck, Bob

Personally, if I'm going out to get some IFR practice I'll get a full IFR brief on Lockheed Martin regardless of the anticipated weather, I'll file an IFR flightplan, and make sure I am familiar with the obstacle departure procedure and approaches I want to practice. If I'm just going out to get some IFR practice in the local area I'll file from my home drone, back to my home drone and put "practice approaches in the local area" in the remarks section. I'll then pick up my clearance just like I would if I was going someplace. That way I practice all phases of IFR, not just the approaches. If I'm going someplace, even if I'm anticipating severe clear, I'll still get a full IFR brief on Lockheed Martin. Sometimes I file an IFR clearance anyway, even if I plan on flying VFR. Once I'm airborne I'll contact ATC to let them know I want flight following. If I filed IFR I'll let them know I have an IFR plan on file but plan to fly VFR with flight following.

The Lockheed Martin website has something similar. Click on the magnifying glass, get a popup list, check the appropriate boxes. Bob

I posed the question over on Beechtalk and got conflicting answers there, even from ATC controllers. I've come to the conclusion that since there is no defined standard, I'm going to ask for clarification. From now on, if they ask me to "report a 3 mile left base" my response will be something like: "For 1CB, by 3 mile base do you mean base for a 3 mile final or on base and 3 miles from the runway?" Bob

The GTX345 does have an option GPS. I cannot think of any advantage to the GDL88 vs the GTX345 except MAYBE the autonomous mode and MAYBE price. The GTX not only puts traffric/weather on the GPS like the GDL88, it also sends it to your tablet, and it also has an AHRS built in. I'm with you. I see no advantage to the GDL88.

carqwik, I'm with you. To me, a 3 mile base means on a base that will result in me crossing the final at 3 miles if I don't turn. By the time I make the turn and roll out on final I will actually be just a bit inside 3 miles. I'd suggest you post your question on the BeechTalk forum. There are several ATC controllers that are on there on a regular basis and can tell what they are taught. Bob

I went to the Aviation Trade Show here in Puyallup yesterday and talked to the guys from Pacific Coast Aviation. Given that we have a GTN650 and a KT76A here is what I learned (according to them). 1. If we just want ADS-B out, it will probably be cheaper (just by a little) to replace the KT76A with the new Garmin GTX335. Installing the KT74 or TT31 will require installation of a speed switch ($125 list on line), the Garmin does not. Instead, the Garmin uses groundspeed from the GTN650. Also, installing the speed switch means you open the pitot line to install it which would require another pitot/static check. 2. As suspected, the King KXR boxes are rebranded FreeFlight boxes. If you install any of those boxes, they have to use their internal GPS because they are not set up to take a position source from our GTN650. That means we would have to install another GPS antenna and associated cable. Plus, since it is UAT, not 1090ES, it cannot use our current KT76A blade antenna (that antenna needs to stay there for the KT76A anyway). So you have to install a UAT antenna. And I think he said it has to be at least 3 feet from the KT76A antenna, but not more than 10 feet away. What happens is you KT76A transmits its mode C code, and the UAT box hears it, reads it, then transmits the ADS-B information. If you later replace your mode C transponder with a mode S transponder, that method won't work anymore. You'll have to go back and run some wires from the new transponder to the UAT box. If you decide to go with the UAT box, and you currently have a mode C transponder, you might want to just go ahead and replace it with the mode S transponder at the same time. But if you are going to do that, why not just get you ADS-B out from the new transponder? 3. He was not impressed by the NavWorx box. 4. I did not ask about the Lynx because I'm sure my partners won't want to spend that much money. Plus, for quite a bit less (GTX345), we can get traffic and weather on the GTN650, Garmin Pilot, or Foreflight. Makes everybody happy. And it comes with an AHRS built in for an emergency attitude indicator if we use Garmin Pilot. Bottom line for me: I'm going to try to convince my partners to install a GTX345 for OUT and IN. He is probably off a bit but he said installed cost is probably in the neighborhood of $5200. Probably a bit higher in the end I suspect.

I've been using: SBDGR S = Standard (VOR, VHF Comm, ILS) B = LPV capability D = DME G = GNSS (GPS) R = RNAV capability. Requires entry of a PBN (Performance Based Navigation) code later. For the PBN code I just use D2 (RNAV 1 using GNSS) I think John and Bruce may have said you'll need to have the R code in there if you want to fly T routes. I could be wrong though. It's been known to happen before!

I've got a question for both M20F and TeeJayEvans then. Do either or both of you have ADS-B OUT? Here is my understanding of how it works: If neither plane has ADS-B OUT and you are the only two planes around, your IN equipment will not show the traffic. If the other plane is OUT equipped, then you should see them via ADS-B or ADS-R (if within range of a ground station) or via TIS-B if in radar coverage. If neither plane has OUT, but there is a third plane close enough that does have OUT, you will see both the other aircraft through ADS-B and TIS-B (if in radar coverage). If you have OUT and IN, and your IN covers both 978 and 1090 (like most receivers seem to do) then you will see all other OUT equipped aircraft via ADS-B. If in radar coverage you'll see everything ATC sees, including non-OUT equipped airplanes via TIS-B. If you have OUT and IN, but your IN is either just 978 or just 1090, then you should see all other OUT traffic on your band via ADS-B. If within range of a ground station, you should see ADS-B OUT traffic on the other band via ADS-R. If you are in radar coverage you should also see non-OUT equipped aircraft via TIS-B. So bottom line, if you do not have OUT, there is a good chance there will be traffic that is not displayed. If you do have OUT and IN, you should see most if not all other traffic.

Seth, The GTX345 also gives you an AHRS. While it isn't legal as a backup attitude indicator, if my AI quit in the soup, I'd much rather fly off the GTX AHRS and confirm with the turn and bank than try to fly with just the turn and bank. To use the AHRS you'll need Garmin Pilot which I suspect you have if you are concerned about transferring flight plans. TeeJayEvans, The KT74 may not be a slip in, the Trig TT31 is. Supposedly they've reprogrammed it so that you can still use the KT76A tray even for ADS-B. Current price for the TT31 at Pacific Coast is $2390. Fellow Mooney CBs, I think the cheapest way to get ADS-B IN/OUT, if you have the popular KT76A is to install the TT31 and use a portable IN solution. Which one you choose (GDL39 or Stratus or...) depends on what software you use. With that said, right now I'm leaning toward the GTX345 myself. One of my partners wants traffic on the GTN. Only two devices will currently do that, the GDL88 and the GTX345. I would like traffic on my tablet and not clutter up the GTN display. The GDL88 can't do that, the GTX345 can. The GTX can also work with either Garmin Pilot or Foreflight Mobile. I use Pilot, a couple of my partners use Foreflight. The GTX makes everybody happy. Now all I have to do is convince them to spend the extra money. Plus, I'm a useful load freak. I don't want to do anything that reduces my useful load. I'm always looking for ways to increase it. Plus, the more boxes I have in the plane, the more boxes that can break that I'll have to pay to repair. I have lots of install questions. I'm going to the Aviation Trade Show in Puyallup Saturday and plan to ask the guy at the Pacific Coast Avionics booth lots of install questions. I'll be asking about Freeflight, NavWorx, Garmin, Trig, Lynx, and King. Some boxes require adding a control panel. Some require adding more antennas. Both of those increase install costs and reduce useful load. Its false economy to buy a cheap box if it costs a small fortune to install all the boxes, panels, and antennas. If you plan to go to the trade show, I'll be at the Angel Flight West booth from 1100 - 1300. Bob

Nope, just a typo and insufficient proofreading. I'll fix it.. stand by...

If you are thinking about installing the GDL88 you might consider the new GTX345 instead. Since you are considering adding the GDL that implies you already have a GNS or GTN (or something better) otherwise you wouldn't be able to display the FIS-B or TIS-B data. If that were the case, I'm thinking you meant the GDL84 which is wifi to your tablet rather than hardwired to your GPS. The GTX is supposed to be able to display the same data on your GPS as the GDL. The GTX replaces your transponder rather than just adding a box. Saves your useful load. The GTX will also give you a bluetooth display of the FIS-B/TIS-B on a tablet with either Garmin Pilot or Foreflight. The GDL won't. The GTX will give you an AHRS (emergency but not legal) attitude backup in Garmin Pilot. The GDL won't. The GTX will give you 1090ES out so you can use it anywhere in the world. The GDL won't (it uses 978 out). The GTX is available in a remote version that can be controlled by a GTN. If you do that and remove your current transponder, you just freed up some panel space. Personally, I prefer to have the panel mount rather than the remote. That way, if the GTN dies, I can still control the GTX. Think of the GTX345 as a GTX330/ES, GDL88, and Flightstream 210 (minus the flightplan transfer) all rolled into one box.

Our LLC (partnership) agreement says the plane has to fly at least once every 2 weeks. If it has been sitting that long, we see who has gone the longest without flying and make them fly it. If they won't/can't then they can get one of the others to do it for them. They'll be charged $50 and the pilot who does the flying will get a $50 credit on their next bill. Hasn't been an issue yet in 3 years. With 4 of us, the plane has never gone over 2 weeks without flying.

I'll add to several good pieces of advice above... 1. I would not spend money to buy and install an ADF. We paid money to take ours out during an upgrade. 2. A second NAV/COM would be nice as a backup. That way if you lose the NAV or the COMM you can still talk to ATC and fly an approach... but you don't NEED it. 3. DME is nice... but you don't NEED it. 4. A KNS80 will give you a backup NAV, RNAV, and DME... but you don't NEED it. 5. I cannot function without an HSI anymore. There is no cheap way to install one. You don't NEED it. 6. Installing a modern GPS will not only give you a GPS it will also give you another VOR/LOC/GS/COMM suitable substitute for a DME all in one box. But you said you don't want to spend the money. Redundancy is good. We have a GTN650 with GPS/VOR/LOC/GS/Comm, a KNS80 for backup VOR/LOC/GS/DME, and a separate Comm radio. I carry a handheld Comm radio and two tablets with moving maps. You don't NEED it though. Like someone said above, figure out where you MIGHT want to go and see what types of approaches are available. Then make your decision based on that. Keep in mind that if an airport has several RNAV approaches but only has one ILS, if they are busy, and they are not using the runway with the ILS, you may end up holding a long time before they let you fly the LOC approach with a circle to land on the active. Bring LOTS of gas with you in that case. Oh, and I learned in a T37. One VOR/LOC, DME, no GS, no ADF, one Comm. Best of luck, Bob

There are lots of possibilities. It all depends on how knowledgeable the person is who is talking them down, how much time they have, and the mental state of the new pilot. Given the ideal situation you could MAYBE talk them through loading an ILS into the FMS and setting up autoland and autobrakes. If they could do that then the plane could land itself and come to a stop on the runway (or at least almost to a stop). Problem is you would need someone with all that knowledge at the approach control facility. Not likely to happen unless they are talking to approach control at a 'pilot base' of the airline that owns the plane (every airline has a slightly different cockpit). Trouble is, in order to save fuel (read money), airlines put on just enough gas to get to the destination with the legal minimum amount of gas plus some 'contingency' fuel. How much extra fuel depends on the airport, day of the week, time of day, weather, and the individual airline. It could be as little as 20 minutes of extra or a couple hours if they were 'tankering' fuel. When I transitioned from the DC9 (20 years worth) to the 757/767, they gave me 2 days of training just to learn the basics of the FMS. Even being a pilot, I still didn't fully understand the system until I'd been using it for awhile. Could be rather difficult, but not impossible, to talk a non-pilot through loading an ILS into the system. Or if you ever saw the Jerry Seinfeld episode with Elaine and her boyfriend (Matt Damon), just have them push the 'land' button.

We have a '78 J. We charge ourselves $250/month each ($1000 total) so that $12000/year to cover fixed costs. Our major fixed costs are: Open T hangar about $2800/year. Insurance about $1500/year. Annual about $2000/year although one of them was $3300. GTN650 database about $550/year. We also charge $25/hour dry for future PLANNED maintenance (engine, prop, oil, magneto, tires, etc.) At that rate we have managed to build up about $10,000 in our account for UNPLANNED expenses (avionics repair, ADS-B equipment, paint, etc). We also have about $3500 in the planned mx kitty toward our eventual engine overhaul. Just one more data point for you. Bob

I don't practice engine failure too often, but if that's what you're doing, pick any time you want to pull the power to idle and see if you can make it. As for the other questions, what I've done is: I aim about 1/3 of the way down the runway. It's easier to lose more altitude if I am too high than it is to stretch it a bit if it looks like I'll come up short of the runway. Even if the runway is relatively short, I'd rather go off the end at 30 knots trying to stop than land at 60 knots short of the runway. That of course has to be tempered with what's off the ends of the runway. Ditch, river, housing, etc. I stay clean and at 85-90 knots (best glide) until I know I'm too high. At that point I'll lower the gear and slow to 80-85 knots. Once I'm sure I'm still too high I start milking in the flaps until my aimpoint is where I want it. I have landed during a simulated engine failure, but many people recommend against it. Increased odds of forgetting to lower the gear combined with a somewhat higher sink rate means increased odds of damage to your plane. As for shock cooling, I don't worry about it. Prop in the yellow range - if you are at idle and slow, the prop will probably be below the yellow arc. Play with it. If you don't like what you see, add power, go around, then practice some more.

While you cannot EASILY do this, if you know what approach you are going to fly you can manually add all the fixes as waypoints in your flightplan. If your preflight weather briefing indicates that winds will favor a specific runway, and you know your approach preferences, you can pretty much know what approach you are going to fly before you leave home.

We use two bungees. One we run from the right seat adjustment bar, around the left seat inboard horn of the yoke and back to the same bar. The second one runs from the left seat bar, around the right seat yoke horn and back to the bar. Does a pretty good job of locking the ailerons and elevator.

Go to Aircraft Spruce. Search for "Donaldson". Pick Donaldson Air Filters. Scroll to the bottom of the page and select the Documents tab. Click on the link for the Donaldson selection guide. Once you've downloaded the guide you can read about care of the filter and select the proper filter for your model. They have them for almost every model, although I don't see one listed for the E or F. However, they do have a cross reference based on the OEM part number. They are supposed to be good for 500 hours or 5 cleanings, whichever comes first. To clean them you remove it a blow low pressure air backwards through the filter. Cost is shown for the J filter is $106.

I highly recommend the Donaldson filter. Costs more but lasts longer. No messy oil involved. I swear that when we switched we picked up another inch to an inch and a half of manifold pressure during cruise. I think it supposedly does a better job of filtering the air too.