Bob - S50

Here, take a look at this one: AC 120-76C.PDF In it you'll find that a Class 1 EFB is not mounted to the aircraft, but may be temporarily connected to a power supply for battery charging. I would take that as connected via a cigarette lighter adapter or USB charging cable. As for MOUNTED... Further down it provides the definition of mounted: "j.Mounted. Any portable device that is attached to a permanently installed mounting device." I would take that to mean that anything being secured by a RAM suction or clamp mount would not be considered to be mounted because it is not permanent. Further, it also says: "Class 1 EFBs that have Type B applications for aeronautical charts, approach charts, or an electronic checklist (ECL) must be appropriately secured and viewable during critical phases of flight and must not interfere with flight control movement." So to me it implies you should have it temporarily mounted someplace. That might be on your leg or a RAM mount. I could even make an argument that depending on my seating position, a leg mount might not be viewable (blocked by the yoke) or even interfere with control movement. Not to mention that having to look at your leg during IMC is a vertigo trap. Just my interpretation. (I am not a lawyer and did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night)

Ahhh. So I'm NOT the only one!

I think the question most inquiring minds want to know is what kind of speeds/power settings/fuel flow are you getting with all those mods?

Not to worry, I have the same information on my phone right here on the yoke.

Nice. I see you have the higher weight mod. Ours is a '78 and that mod is not available. Like I said, I'm a nerd/geek. I don't mind the math. Been doing it all my life. I even estimate the fuel burn in my head when planning a cross country. I then use that to ensure the flight log from SkyVector or Lockheed Martin seems reasonable. Like Dirty Harry, I know my limitations. I figured out a long time ago that I'm good at understanding something but bad at memorizing. The less I have to memorize the better. Understanders like me are good at math and science (except biology) because they are logical and build on previous knowledge. Memorizers are good at English, geography, and history. Every item is pretty much unrelated to anything you've already learned. Even with the chart I would either have to pull it out or memorize too many random numbers, and still do mental math to figure out which weight to use from the chart. I only have to remember two numbers: 58 and 1.5/100#. Plus, the Air Force gave me lots of practice. Can't remember the additive for the T38 but it was something like 155 + 2 KIAS for every 100# over 1000# of fuel(?). The F106 was 186 plus 2 knots for every 1000# over 6000#.

Not much wrong with floating if I have enough runway. However, the longer I float, the longer I have to screw up the landing either due to a balloon from a gust/muscle twitch or touching down too fast due to poor eyeball calibration. I hate logging 3 landings for one approach! My home drone is adequate, 3500', but I've flown into San Carlos, CA (SQL) which is 2600'. If I'm used to floating, things could get sporty if I decide I want to go into something even shorter. I'd rather be comfortable with my speed on final because I do it the same every time rather than be uncomfortable on final at a short runway because I'm 5 or 10 knots slower than normal. Flying final at 1.3 times the stall speed is pretty standard and provides a 30% margin of error. If the stall speed is 50, that would be 65 on final. I would have to be pretty inattentive to get 15 knots slow on final. If the winds are gusty, I'll add the gust factor up to a maximum of 15 additional knots.

I do not watch the airspeed in the flare. On final I'm runway and airspeed. Once I pull the power and start the flare I'm 100% runway. Been that way in every plane I've ever flown.

For those who don't want to read long entries, this is about airspeed on final. I have started using yet another speed (involving mental math) and wonder if anybody else is doing something similar. When we first got the J I flew 80 KIAS on final... too fast. Then I started slowing to 75 KIAS, still floated forever. Then I tried 70 KIAS, still float more than I like. Here comes the nerd part. Our POH only gives stall speed for max gross weight; full flaps it is 55 KIAS. It does not give stall speeds at any other weight. So I got out my trusty calculator app and did some figger'n. Since lift is proportional to the square of the velocity, I used the formula W2/W1 = V2^2/V1^2. Since I knew W1= 2740 and V1 = 55 I could enter any weight and come up with the stall speed. I then took the stall speed at each weight and multiplied by 1.3 to come up with a target speed (no gusts) on final. Bottom line, I now use the following: 58 KIAS + 1.5 x (fuel+ payload in hundreds). So for example. If I come back to the airport solo with 10 gallons on board that's about 190# for me and all my gear + about 60# for fuel = 250# total. I round that up to 300. 3 x 1.5 = 4.5 so I would use 63 KIAS on final. If I come back with 30 gallons, and 400# of people and bags I would use 58 + 1.5 x (400 + 180)/100. Call it 58 + 1.5 x 600 = 58 + 9 = 67 KIAS on final. So far I'm much happier with my landings. So is it just me?

Spreadsheet? I'm an old guy. I used a calculator. That does explain the problem though, probably an incorrect formula in one of the cells. I did not do calculations for headwinds. I have looked at that in the past and determined that you do not save any fuel by speeding up until the headwinds get up to about 50 knots. I did not, however, take MX costs into consideration when I did that. When I was in the Air Force, I came up with a theory that the guys in the squadron liked and I suspect you will too: 1. When you flight plan, you always have to take winds into consideration to make sure you have enough gas to get there. 2. The winds are never what they are forecast. Either the speed is different or the direction is different. 3. For most airplanes, if you have more headwind than planned, in order to get maximum range you need to go faster so push it up. (In reality this is only true if you are flying at L/D max in calm air. Hey, but why quibble the details with a bunch of fighter pilots?) 4. If you get airborne and there is less headwind or more tailwind, you have extra gas so push it up. 5. Therefore, the answer is always push it up!

If you don't mind spending a bit more money (only one arm and one leg) you might consider the Avidyne IFD440. Slide in replacement for the GNS430. WAAS touchscreen. Current price at Pacific Coast Avionics is $11,495, no shipping, no sales tax.

How about time to climb. Be sure you have the same fuel on board, pick your desired climb speed then climb without leveling off all the way to 11,500'. Record your times at several altitudes on the way up. Then do your cruise testing at 11,500', then 7500', then 2500'. I wouldn't bother checking the service ceiling unless you regularly fly at altitudes needing oxygen. You do know you will be up around the flight levels and have to be IFR if you get there right? I thought I read someplace that you get the biggest benefit at higher altitudes so I would expect the biggest benefit at 11,500', somewhat smaller benefit at 7500', and little to no benefit at 2500'. Here is a link to an article in which they compared performance improvement on a Mooney: Review Let us know how it works out and if you don't mind, how much it costs.

First, Carson speed is about 1.3 x L/D max, or about 115 KIAS in a J. Second, I think you made a math error. Flying at 60% should not burn 2.2 gallons MORE fuel than flying at 75%. Third, since I don't have your F model POH, using my J model POH numbers (economy cruise mixture) and comparing 75% vs 60% vs 47% I get: 75% = 10.5 GPH @ 6000' & 2600 RPM = 164KTAS = 3+03 hours = 32 gallons = $176 fuel + $76.22 Mx = $252.22 Total 60% = 8.3 GPH @ 6000' & 2200 RPM = 148KTAS = 3+22 hours = 28 gallons = $154 fuel + $84.46 Mx = $238.46 Total 47% = 6.7 GPH @ 6000' & 2000 RPM = 130KTAS = 3+51 hours = 25.8 gallons = $141.90 + $96.15 Mx = $238.05 Total Using 75% vs 60% you get a savings of $13.76 but 19 minutes or just over 10% longer. Although I must admit I'm a bit surprised at how little extra savings there is by slowing to 130KTAS. Of course your (these calculations) maintenance costs are based on Hobbs times. If they were based on tachometer times like ours are, the lower RPM settings for the lower power settings will make the Mx costs lower too. Another way to look at it when comparing your 60% vs 75% power is that it costs you $0.72 for every minute you save by going faster, or $43.45 for every hour you save. Since we use Tach time, I generally figure it costs my about $1 for every minute I save by pushing the power up over my normal 65%. It all depends on whether I'm in a hurry or don't mind spending a few extra minutes enjoying the view that day.

Ours is in the same place as teejayevans and daver328 Bob

I'm guessing you have an Android like me. Different software for different hardware.

I agree. For the original poster: Just do the math. Owning is almost never then best financial decision. Take my J for example. Between reserve costs ($25/hour) and fuel ($45 -$55/hour), it costs me about $70 to $80/hour to fly. Call it $75. Fixed costs (annual -$2000, hangar - $2500, insurance - $1400, GPS subscription - $600, ignoring all the others) come up to $5900/year. Call it $6000. IF... you could rent the same plane (hard to find) they run about $200/hour. Even at that price, if you divide $6000 by the net difference in operating cost of $125, you would have to fly 48 hours/year just to break even. And those are pretty optimistic numbers. I fly about 65. My costs are $250/month = $3000/year plus 65 hours x $75/hour = $4875. Total cost for me is just under $8000/year. However, I have 3 partners. Makes much more financial sense. When I decided to get back into GA I looked at renting. Most 200HP retractables were either 177RG, 172RG, or Arrow. Quite a bit slower. Plus, most of them prohibited taking them beyond the bordering states (Idaho and Oregon in my case). That doesn't work when I want to fly to California and Colorado. Or, they charge a minimum of 3 hours/day whether you fly or not. Also doesn't make sense to pay for 21 hours to fly 9. Or they won't let you keep it more than 2 days. Just too restrictive. Most clubs seem to be organized around the concept of boring holes in the local area, not going cross country. I think most of us own because it gives us more flexibility in how we use it, when we use it, and because we just love to fly. Again, if money is tight, consider getting 1, 2 or even 3 partners. It let's you get a nicer plane and cuts your ownership costs. Even with 3 partners, in 2 years we have not yet had a scheduling conflict.

I can think of four reasons why the lights might not be on. Don't know which would apply in this case: 1. Whoever did the walk around didn't or couldn't check the filaments on the landing lights and they were both burned out. 2. He wasn't cleared to land yet. Most airline pilots use the landing light switch as a memory aid. If the landing lights are on, we are cleared to land. If they are off, we need to check. I had to go around once for lack of landing clearance at DTW. 3. Flying an approach to near minimums. I would often leave the landing light off until we broke out. Having them on in the clouds makes it more difficult to see the approach/runway lights. I've had one time when all we saw at minimums were the approach lights. That let us continue down to 100' where we saw the runway and landed. With the landing lights on we might not be able to find the approach lights and have to go missed approach. 4. Distraction. The pilots got distracted at some point and just forgot.

But don't be afraid to ask for clearance to enter the class B. Coming home to the Seattle area last week, with flight following, they handed me over to Seattle Approach. He did not say the magic words. I asked if I needed to stay below the Class B today and he promptly gave me clearance to enter, with the caveat to be below the class B by the time I was 5 miles east of my home drone.

$4.83 cash price at my home drone. Want to save even more? 1. Get a Phillips 66 credit card. 2. Join a charity organization, specifically Angel Flight (Central, Mid-Atlantic, Northeast, Oklahoma, South Central, Southeast, or West), Airlift Hope America, or Mercy Flight Southeast. 3. Fly a mission and buy your fuel for the mission from Phillips 66 using your Phillips card. 4. Fill out the rebate form and get $1.00/gallon back from Phillips. I've used it at Spokane (KSFF); stopped at Caldwell, ID (KEUL) on the way home from Boise (KBOI), and stopped at La Grande, OR (KLGD) on the way home from Ontario, OR (KONO). Fuel at LGD was $4.40. With the rebate it will end up costing me $3.40. Saved $1.43/gallon vs buying when I got home. You can only do that as part of a mission, but that is one thing I take into consideration when planning, especially if it is a multi leg mission. I try to talk the other pilot into meeting at an airport that has Phillips gas and takes the Phillips card. And, in addition to saving on gas, the full cost of the mission is a tax deduction. Get to fly, do some good, save some money. Win, win, win.

Like others have said, it can be hit and miss. However, if money is tight you might consider finding partners to help with the finances. I did just that for the same reason. I have three partners. With four of us we had more money to spend on a plane. That meant we could get a "J" instead of me getting a "C". Fixed costs (hangar, insurance, annual, subscriptions) only cost 1/4th what they would have cost me. The hard part is finding partners. Even harder finding good partners. If you have an odd number of partners you never end up with a tie vote when it comes to decision making. We've done fine with 4 of us. Good luck, Bob

Glen, Don't know if will help, but here's a link to a rental V35A in Palo Alto http://www.flysundance.org/fleet.php Scroll down and you'll find a fill in the blank weight and balance. Bob

I suspect they want the star washer in the middle to ensure a good contact. In that position, when you tighten the nut, the stars will bite into the blades and ensure good contact. The compression of the stars puts enough tension on the bolt to create enough friction to keep the nut in place. If the star washer is against the nut, it might tend to resist tightening the nut as well and the only thing holding the blades together is bolt tension. Maybe that doesn't create a consistent contact. Just my guess.

I once flew the VOR/DME to Olmpia, WA. What I did was load and activate the approach from the IAF at the start of the arc. I have our 650 set up to display desired track in the upper left corner. I would then keep resetting the course on our HSI to match what it said was my desired course. I then simply kept the needle centered. Prior to the FAF I switched over to VLOC guidance. I'm thinking you could also program one of the corners of your map display to show crosstrack error. Since the GTN knows where you are supposed to be, that would tell you how many miles inside or outside of the arc you were. Personally, I was happy if the needle was centered and I appeared to be on the magenta line. When I did that, our DME was on the fritz. I'll have to go try it again and see how it compares. One thing to keep in mind. DME shows slant range to the navaid. GPS shows horizontal distance. As the look angle increases, the difference becomes larger. That is, in close and high altitude are larger errors. Long distance and low altitude make little difference. However, even at 3000' AGL and 7 miles away, the difference is less than 0.02 miles.

After we installed our EDM730 we would have similar intermittent oil temperature X outs. Turned out to be an installation error. The star washer is supposed to be between the two blades that connect the sensor wiring to the gauge wiring. The mechanic had installed it as blade-blade-washer-nut. Should be blade-washer-blade-nut. Once we fixed that we have had no more problems.

That looks pretty good to me. Your readings look almost the same as mine. #4 on ours is the hottest so I use if for leaning during the climb. It's also the leanest so it peaks first. #1 is the last to peak (richest) so I usually lean without the lean find feature. I just watch the #1 EGT and wait for it to peak and then decline. When I do use the lean find function, I usually see a spread of 20 to 30 degrees between the leanest and the richest. Since I want to operate 10-30 LOP and the engine is still running smoothly, it's good enough for me.

I too have one that sits on the glareshield. Have not tried it back on the hat rack. Bob