MB65E

On an E model, I jack the wings first. There is enough weight on the nose that it stays down. Then raise the nose with the hoist. Finally, after the nose is just raised off the ground, place a small 2 rung step ladder under the tail tiedown. Use strips of plywood to make up the distance. Then lift the nose a bit more to load the fuselage slightly. This is really stable, and allows you to get in and out of the aircraft. Go slow with everything. -Matt

We're all here to help Jim! Between everyone here we of know good techs in every state. If it was in SoCal if be willing to talk with the shop for you. Ownership is a commitment, -Matt

It's not a major anything...43.13 appendix A par c (11) list interior work as preventive maintenance. But that brings another question on Car 3 cat if 43.13 is even valid. -Matt

My guess is that it's just a 200hp horizontally opposed engine trying to pull itself apart. Each cylinder is pulling 50hp. The impulses that do occurr are isolated in a very narrow location. Contributing to it could be the fatigue in the casting from the cycles. High time cases that have cracked will eventually crack again. Also, if a cylinder is replaced, the individual cylinder torquing procedure is not the same as it is when the case halves are put together the first time. This will add stress to the case too. I think there is more support at the rear of the engine with the accessory case and engine mounts supporting the crank case better. Hopefully, a fully balanced crankshaft rods and Pistons will lessen the cracking. Anyone with a 3 blades prop have cracks in the case? Im just wondering if the crank stress will be better distributed with the 3 blades or maybe a wood prop (MT). -Matt

Bummer! #2 cyl? Looks like it was welded long ago. I bet half of the 200hp guys have delt with the same issue. Good luck! -Matt

Too sad...

Cool! I think the landing gear brings some questions. If they leave it a fixed gear I think they nailed the gear on the flying prototype. However, the renderings show oleos on all 3 (faired in).?? On The RG model, they moved away from the trailing link it looks like. Seams silly especially if you had a trailing link already designed and certified. -Matt

I have one from my E. If anyone wants it... I'll check the condition. Didn't know there was a demand. Same deal... -Matt

Wow 60 bucks!!! That's a deal for not having an insurance claim. If it was 150-200/ night I'd think about it, but not $60. But the hangar door could blow off and/or the line guy could bend the nose strut too... That's been my luck... Morbid I know... -Matt

Hi Don!! Have the battery load tested. Mine would charge to 12.5 but would fall on its ass when a load was put on it. Most 12v aircraft batts should always measure 12.5 or greater when fully charged. More like 12.7 is a good number. I spent a better part of a week trying to diagnose mine. Tricky electrical things would happen that made me think it was the realy too. Exact senario, my relay would close and work properly with out a load on it. As soon as any load was put on it, it would fall off line... Another thing you can do if the relay does stay closed is pull all the CB's. Then turn the master on, systemically turn on each CB and switch on. Then get ready to watch the voltage fall off rapidly. Finally put a new RG-35xC in solved my issue. But not after I spent $200 on a new master relay. Good news is I have both now. -Matt

There is space for it dimensionally, but I couldn't find a way to do it with out going thru the upper stringer with the fasteners and coax. I was told the same thing, they just don't realize the limitations under the skin. At least you didn't buy it as I did... -Matt

Hi Scott!! I'm referring to the Lasar's fiberglass faring...bummer I know. Thanks for your comm antenna!! -Matt

Check the grounding of the instrument as well as the grounding of the engine to airframe... A lot of manufactures no longer service the instruments with the plasma elements due to EPA regs... Try to find a plasma tv lately? Same reason. Jpi can hopefully do somthing for you. -Matt

I couldn't get mine under the fin... It was just too long and Tall. I tried really hard, but in the end I was not willing to go thru the skin overlap and angle aluminum that's up there just to connect the cables to the elt. ELT sold that antenna directly to me for $250. If anyone wants it let me know. Since then, ELT has an antenna that's the same height but half the length. It's listed as their "high speed" antenna. I don't have a PN...but it might fit. In the mean time I just put an old 121.5 antenna back there and will continue to fly with SPOT and PLB. Hopefully, there will be some better 406/GPS antennas shortly!! Good luck! -Matt

What's the oil temp? Not too familier with the oil temp regulator on the continental, but on Lycomings you can see a dip when the vernotherm actavates... -Matt

It's Most likely a certified repair station that has that line of instruments listed on their capabilities list. Certain repair schemes may still need to be done by the MFG. What you had done was only cosmetic anyway. -Matt

I know at certain temps I have smelled things.... I usually pick up on the vibration first. Engine monitors rock!! I'd pull the injector and spark plug to see how lean things actually were. 490 is close enough to 500 to worry about it. Good luck, I'd get it checked out... If your a close to grand junction, I'll vouch for west star there! Fly safe, -Matt

5 mo is a long time...some could have evaporated. There is a leak down chart. Describes the various leakage allowance. Pictures help too. I would get a ferry permit and take it to a place that can do the annual. Then worry about the tanks. -Matt

Anybody ever see it done On an E model?? I haven't looked where the battery interference would be. Looks really nice! -Matt

Worked out Well! I put a pic in my gallery of the yoke. Thanks!!! I'll put some detailed shots up soon. The par 46 28V HX (pulse) is a certified lamp. The non pulse one is not yet... Aero LED figured more people would want the plus function so they finished the paperwork for the HX first. No Field approval required. It's a PMA'd part. -Matt

They work great Pete!! They have a letter that comes with the lamp that refrances their PMA as well as manufacturing lot number. -matt

I figured as much. -Matt

Hi TJ, if your being sarcastic I missed it... It's used as a reminder for instrument approach sequence. I think it's fine! It's A good reminder what to do when the magenta line turnes Black! -Matt

If you don't already have FF I would do the G2 and get the SD logging feature as a bouns. I already had FF so I went with the G1. I think you could install a new one for under $1200. That said, if you think your standard instrument guages are on the fritz or failing the cost to repair them can be significant. At that point one of the larger "primary replacment " packages would be worth it. -Matt

Sad deal all the way around. All the water and junk from the tank should be cleared!! If one is really worked about it, they should remove the sump annually and clear the tank of any debris and water. Or whenever there is a known issue. Allowing crap in the tank to build up then changing the sump designe to allow it to happen seams counter productive. Am I missing somthing Jose? I usually follow your logic, just having a hard time on this one. -Matt.