MB65E

Haha... It doesn't leak, break , or ware out in the hangar. Guys at the airport make fun of me. They say, "hey it's an airplane, you supposed to fly it not work on it" But, yes other things magically quit working etc... More cowl pix David!! -Matt

I had one fail recently at just over 300hrs in another aircraft. Chief aircraft had the best pricing and lead times. Spruce wanted 3 weeks, and PSI didn't have any. It was around 300 to replace it. I'd try to find one from MS where someone has upgraded to a digital unit. -Matt

I land with the pump on and lights on. But, I don't let the pump run on the ground. Once clear of the runway. I only turn it on below 1000ft. Considering the Dukes pumps are expensive I try to limit the use. Your pump could be drawing too much current. There is a 10 year calander life to the pumps as well. To be clear, was it the fuel pump braker or the buss braker? Could be a loose or chafed wire with any of the circuits on that bus. With the hard failure of the circuit as you described, I'd brake out the multi meter and go to town. I'd actually check the landing light wires if was the bus braker. That's a high output lamp, if it's OEM, and the wires are usually in harms way and get banged up over the years. A few questions: Last OH of the pump? What landing lamp is installed? Good luck, Sounds serious enough not to fly till sorted out. -Matt

Corrosion worries me a bit with an old machine like mine. I try my best to keep it dry. However, just think about all the airplanes that sit outside, they are still fine. It sounds like you are aware of the cause and effect, and that's half of the battle. Most rain water is cleaner than what comes out of the tap! At least the front is passing today! It's been cold! (Relatively, for SoCal) -Matt

Beautiful! I'd Like to here your report! Looks great!! I like the handy pouch on the back seat. Nice work! -Matt

I think the reason things get hot running LOP is that people spend too much time trying to find LOP and end up at Peak for longer than they should. I recently learned that Proper LOP is obtained by watching the LAST cylinder to peak and not the first. Someone on MS mentioned that. Our common tendency to lean to the first cylinder would mean that all the others could be much closer to peak. As a technician, I'm interested in the science of LOP due to the fact I don't understand some of it. I don't think many techs really know either. I don't know a single old timer tech that will tell me he thinks it's OK. They all say, well "good luck with your exhaust valves." I don't think its harmful if it's done properly, but it's hard to do. On my fuel servo peak and 50 LOP is probably around 1 turn on the mixture setting. (And about a 8kts-10kts off the ICA. A power change, air density, climb or decent will change the EGT's. When I operate my engine I try to stay below 380 and 1450. Hopefully keeping the heat out of it will make it last. -Matt

This actuator was on EBay today. It might have the parts you need to get by... http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=131073759463 -Matt

Ok, now my intrest has gotten the best of me.. I knew they were more than 35¢.The Champion box of 100 is $66.75 However, A box of 100 Tempest gaskets is $39.65 from Spruce... Individually they are 35¢... If purchased individually in a lot of 100 Spruce offers a 20% discount off the 35¢... They all have the M674 and U674 p/n's I'm done with my torch, and Champion! -Matt

On the RSA5 Fuel servo, installed on most 4 cylinder Injected Lycomings, the o-rings are: Larger blue o-ring P/N 951789 Smaller black o-ring on the screen itself P/N 953541-10 The plug gasket to satisfy the the AD that's not stamped "G" yet is P/N 2577258. I think this is the same P/N for the RSA10 fuel servo. But the O-rings are not the same. The larger fuel servo installed on most 6 cylinder Lycoming's is the RSA10. Its o-rings for the inlet screen are: Larger P/N 951790, smaller P/N 951392. I purchased mine from RLB Accessory Services 630-543-9213. Ask for Butch or Bob. Hope this helps, but double check with your vendor and IPC. -Matt

You guys are great! Enjoy the day! -Matt

Now that's funny!! Man the price must have come down. Last time I bougt gaskets I think I remember paying .75¢. -Matt

Champion sells the correct anti-sieze. If you don't have any Spruce sells it. I wouldn't change what has works for 24 years, only if i was starting fresh. New washers can be bought in packs of 100, almost a lifetimes worth. Also, if your really a CB, the old ones can be re-annealed if you heat them lightly with a propane torch. Nice explanation Tom. -Matt

I have them at the hangar and I'll try and get a P/N posted. The RSA10 and the RSA5 do not share the same O-ring. Most are blue some are black. I've never see an orange one, or that much crap. A lot of lint once from a rag in a tank but that was it. Thanks for posting the thread! Its a bit of a peeve of mine. Nobody seems to check the inlet screens from what I can tell, let alone change the O-rings. There are 2, one on the finger screen and one on the threaded fitting/union. cheers, -Matt

I like your thinking. The DD2400 can be done pretty quick depending on your situation. Getting 100LL is another pain at Nellis. That was the only place I have ever gotten bad gas! But then you'd be stuck there filing -175 forms every time you want to leave. Unless they improved the process I'd rather drive by a coffee shop inroute to VGT or HND. -Matt

+3 or for on VGT! However, The rental car place is off sight and the cab took 40min last time I was there. -Matt

I like the gray interior and panel. Looks like new production almost. Sure doesn't look like anything from 1968. Fly safe, -Matt

Darn, Here comes the 5 seat debate again. I bet something is published regarding operating with 5 aboard. Glad they are ok. Can't help but notice the last name associated with the owner... -Matt

Dave that entire E airframe on Barnstormers is still for sale here in SoCal for 8k. I hate to see either one go to waist. Good luck! -Matt

Looks really nice Dave!! I might need to find a 201 spinner when it's all said and done. What will the first run be S-Glass or something like that? I can't stand the chop glass Lasar and som other mod folks uses on their parts, it's really heavy... Keep kickin!! -Matt

I don't see why engine oil would hurt at all on the hinges. It's a bit thick but it should be fine. -Matt

I installed mine with a steel adel clamp. In the spec it said tinsel strength was near equal to the bolt. It's much easier to install that the steel MS clamp from Wicks due to the thinness and the coushion is thinner than the MS21919 clamp. One needs to be careful because most/all of the MS21919 clamps are aluminum. I'm thankful everyone is now aware of the safety improvement the belts offer. -Matt

Glad you are flying again!! -Matt

Makes sense to me! Good luck!! -Matt

Looks good Dave. How much of the old cowling will be removed under your new molded part?There is some significant gains in cooling regarding the lip on the air intakes. Rounded transition back to the cooling plentum etc. Will the inside portion of the inlets be shaped as well and or conform to the baffling? I would almost stop the mold line at the start of the carb/fuel servo air inlet. If you wanted to modify the carb inlet box you could make your new shape just a screwed on piece, much like it is now but a better transition similar to a Lancair 360/ RV 4 intake. This way you could sell the cowl modification to M20s A-G. The airbox would then be another part etc. I like the overall simplicity. I know you were worried about the paint cracking when you attach fiberglass to the sheet metal. Cracking would be less with Carbon. I'm sure the first few will be glass due to cost. If you need a spare spinner ring and spinner for some of the older spinners, let me know. I'd be happy to send my old one for planning purpose. I think you could sell a lot more "kits" if you could do all spinners that are on M20s. I'm not sure, just guessing, the spinner hole in the cowl would need to be opened up a bit maybe an inch? Nice work! -Matt