MB65E

On the RSA5 Fuel servo, installed on most 4 cylinder Injected Lycomings, the o-rings are: Larger blue o-ring P/N 951789 Smaller black o-ring on the screen itself P/N 953541-10 The plug gasket to satisfy the the AD that's not stamped "G" yet is P/N 2577258. I think this is the same P/N for the RSA10 fuel servo. But the O-rings are not the same. The larger fuel servo installed on most 6 cylinder Lycoming's is the RSA10. Its o-rings for the inlet screen are: Larger P/N 951790, smaller P/N 951392. I purchased mine from RLB Accessory Services 630-543-9213. Ask for Butch or Bob. Hope this helps, but double check with your vendor and IPC. -Matt

You guys are great! Enjoy the day! -Matt

Now that's funny!! Man the price must have come down. Last time I bougt gaskets I think I remember paying .75¢. -Matt

Champion sells the correct anti-sieze. If you don't have any Spruce sells it. I wouldn't change what has works for 24 years, only if i was starting fresh. New washers can be bought in packs of 100, almost a lifetimes worth. Also, if your really a CB, the old ones can be re-annealed if you heat them lightly with a propane torch. Nice explanation Tom. -Matt

I have them at the hangar and I'll try and get a P/N posted. The RSA10 and the RSA5 do not share the same O-ring. Most are blue some are black. I've never see an orange one, or that much crap. A lot of lint once from a rag in a tank but that was it. Thanks for posting the thread! Its a bit of a peeve of mine. Nobody seems to check the inlet screens from what I can tell, let alone change the O-rings. There are 2, one on the finger screen and one on the threaded fitting/union. cheers, -Matt

I like your thinking. The DD2400 can be done pretty quick depending on your situation. Getting 100LL is another pain at Nellis. That was the only place I have ever gotten bad gas! But then you'd be stuck there filing -175 forms every time you want to leave. Unless they improved the process I'd rather drive by a coffee shop inroute to VGT or HND. -Matt

+3 or for on VGT! However, The rental car place is off sight and the cab took 40min last time I was there. -Matt

I like the gray interior and panel. Looks like new production almost. Sure doesn't look like anything from 1968. Fly safe, -Matt

Darn, Here comes the 5 seat debate again. I bet something is published regarding operating with 5 aboard. Glad they are ok. Can't help but notice the last name associated with the owner... -Matt

Dave that entire E airframe on Barnstormers is still for sale here in SoCal for 8k. I hate to see either one go to waist. Good luck! -Matt

Looks really nice Dave!! I might need to find a 201 spinner when it's all said and done. What will the first run be S-Glass or something like that? I can't stand the chop glass Lasar and som other mod folks uses on their parts, it's really heavy... Keep kickin!! -Matt

I don't see why engine oil would hurt at all on the hinges. It's a bit thick but it should be fine. -Matt

I installed mine with a steel adel clamp. In the spec it said tinsel strength was near equal to the bolt. It's much easier to install that the steel MS clamp from Wicks due to the thinness and the coushion is thinner than the MS21919 clamp. One needs to be careful because most/all of the MS21919 clamps are aluminum. I'm thankful everyone is now aware of the safety improvement the belts offer. -Matt

Glad you are flying again!! -Matt

Makes sense to me! Good luck!! -Matt

Looks good Dave. How much of the old cowling will be removed under your new molded part?There is some significant gains in cooling regarding the lip on the air intakes. Rounded transition back to the cooling plentum etc. Will the inside portion of the inlets be shaped as well and or conform to the baffling? I would almost stop the mold line at the start of the carb/fuel servo air inlet. If you wanted to modify the carb inlet box you could make your new shape just a screwed on piece, much like it is now but a better transition similar to a Lancair 360/ RV 4 intake. This way you could sell the cowl modification to M20s A-G. The airbox would then be another part etc. I like the overall simplicity. I know you were worried about the paint cracking when you attach fiberglass to the sheet metal. Cracking would be less with Carbon. I'm sure the first few will be glass due to cost. If you need a spare spinner ring and spinner for some of the older spinners, let me know. I'd be happy to send my old one for planning purpose. I think you could sell a lot more "kits" if you could do all spinners that are on M20s. I'm not sure, just guessing, the spinner hole in the cowl would need to be opened up a bit maybe an inch? Nice work! -Matt

It's at least a solid days worth of work. You could save some time for him if you removed the lower cowl, baffling around that cylinder, and exhaust system. Depending on what slip joints are effected you might need to remove the entire exhaust. A cylinder shop could then turn the cylinder around in a day or two. Unless your IA has all the cylinder hones, ring gap tools, ring compressors, the cylinder shop will be the better route. -Matt

Pacific Continental Engines did my cylinders. They might have some in stock. Chris P. runs the shop. Good family shop history. They purchase overseas engines where their countries have mandatory low time overhauls. I've mentioned it before here, but in Japan they have a mandatory 800hr retirement on some of their piston engines. I grabbed 4 cylinders off one of these 800hr engines. Sure better thank the 3900hr cylinders I was looking to overhaul. By the way- I scrapped all 4 old cores for everyone's sake... Cheers, -Matt

Most fine scratches (fingernail catch or smaller) will come out with a polishing compound. I have had good luck with some of the $25 "micro mesh" kist from Sircraft spruce. I think they start at 1500 grit. Wet sanding will be better too. Unless the scratches are gouges most stuff will come out. I wouldn't be worried about balancing or thinning unless you really bore a hole in it. A lot of guys like the California polish recently posted here. I can't wait to try it. I have always used mothers paste Mag wheel Polish. I'd say- go for it! Tape off the cowling area, and prop blades. -Matt

I loaded the article in the download section under preformance but I'll start a new thread here too. So many of you know about the Cafe foundation and the efforts that were put into it in back in the 80's. One of its founders Brien Seeley had created a Mooney that until now, I had only heard stores of and seen just a few pics of it. This aircraft was a 66 M20E S/N 892 with a registration number of N6057Q. I'm not sure if Brian is still around, but he definitely had the same disease that many of us do. Only with Brian, he created something that to this day would be considered an awesome performer. The airplane was even for sale about a year ago I believe. Hopefully you all enjoy the article as I did. I'm glad I found it to share! By the way… My parents are awesome!! They saved the entire year's worth of Sport Aviation Magazines from 1982 out of my Grandpa's collection. They just gave them to me for my 33rd birthday this week!! SWEET!! Fly Safe! Matt scan0025.pdf

Little high, but the quality of the work better be there. $110 is the shop rate at a major LA based Turbine helicopter maintenance facility. If there is any overhead, I would think high 90's would be good. I would charge 65/hr for side work when I had the time. Most had no problem paying. One Lancair guy was shocked when I told him what I charged. He argued with me about how high it was, no overhead, whatever...I then asked if he would like me to continue with the work, he said yes and wrote me a check. At 400-500/day is still an efficient way to get a large amount of work done. I find its a little more efficient on a daily rate than counting hours for both parties. Also depends on the location. I once drove 1000mi round trip to look an an airplane for a prebuy. I quoted $1000 thinking I could use the Mooney to get there, well the Mooney had an electrical gremlin that week so I drove. Well, the airplane was clean and new owner asked what he owed. I said $1000. I was thankful he tagged on a bit more...He was a very happy new owner. I would look at the quality of work that was preformed, the detail of the inspection, the items that the shop preformed no charge. If anything was a miss, I'd be knocking on the door. Another shop I worked in for example, let's say an oil change. The airplane would always leave with N2 checked on the tire pressure, battery level, and all fluids topped at no charge. Oh, and all the fingerprints and Bugs would be gone too! Good luck! -Matt

I love Meguires Mist and whip. Dark purple bottle. You can usually get it anywhere in the country. Meguires Final Inspection- gallons from spruce. Wizzards products makes some nice stuff. There from Minnesota. Windscreen- plexus, but the cost per can is about $20 now. Stupid crazy!! However, the most surprising is a Hot bucket of clean water and a micro fiber towel. Then buff with another micro towel. -Matt

Not just you! Strong left to right x-winds I now caution in my E. You run out of right rudder quickly if you bring the power up too fast. I have needed to reduce power in some cases. Just be smooth with everything, let the airplane accelerate slowly and keep the nose on the ground until you can feel the need for the rudder to dissipate. Once you back off the rudder, that's a known point where you know things are going the right direction. That beats the need to add rudder when it's at the stop already. It will get your attention if your not ready for it. Fly safe! -Matt

I would think it would be 0°. Most panels after the 201 were flat, and to the best of my eye at 0°. Most gyros can handle a 2-3° tilt. Especially the new digital gyros. Nice choice by the way. I'm on my 2nd electric gyro. The -3 will be the replacement this time. -Matt