MB65E

I believe the parts stay the same during the STC. For what it's worth, The brake parts that ware, ie pads and rotors have two manufactures. Rapco and Cleveland, the parts are interchangable the prices I think are the only things that are not. Not going to get into which ones are better. The basic designe was made by Cleveland. Some of the early m20's may have had another manufacture, however now days it's almost all clevlands for GA airplanes. Best, -Matt

Correct, I just remember the pressure on the later T182 being opposite from the controllers. -Matt

The list is endless on what one could want. Keep the inspection authorization process, but get rid of the BS envolved with 337's, STC's etc... If an owner wants to install somthing non TSO'd, not PMA'd let it be up to the IA who is signing it off. Not a piece of paper that comes from OKC. There are some basic saftey principles that will/always apply. I think it is entirelly possible to be self regulated and safer at the same time. Hold the standard, but give some common sense back! If I wanted an Autopilot installed, let me put one in. I'm not going to fly it if it's not safe!! Having a non TSO'd/PMA'd landing light installed, will never effect the safety of flight, so quit with the paperwork, save some cash, and go fly the darn airplane. -Matt

Some of the late model controllers work differently than the continental and early Lycoming controllers. T182, are opposite for instance. I'm not exactly sure how the Bravo is set up...if oil pressure opens or closes the wastegate. -Matt

Check it's finger inlet fuel screen on the bendix servo. I worked on a Bravo for a while. It would do similar things. I changed the mags before I pulled the finger screen. It was full of lint some how. Cleaned it and then could get full power. Maybe pull all the rocker covers and make sure each exhaust rocker is moving the same amount, and that you don't have a short exhaust cycle on one of the cylinders. -Matt

My short list on a few prior m20's include... Pull the back seat out and look in the inspection plates in the seat pan. Looking for the corrosion in the lower web of the spar. Pull at least the lower kick panels on the interior side wing root area. Check the steel tubes there and around the window frame for corrosion.These two spots are where the monsters live. Lower engine mount cracks in the tubes are hard to spot. Corrosion in the wheel well area. Popped rivets inboard lower spar at the bottom of the tanks. Maybe actually check the rigging of the landing gear per the MM. Not just do a few gear swings. The prop's "B" hub AD applies to the SN not the Dash number that's in the prop model suffex. The -1BF hub, is not necessary a "B" hub!! Also make sure the engine has been apart in the last 25 years. Let us know! -Matt

Some C's I believe had fixed cowl flaps. PPI- Pre Purchase Inspection. -Matt

Correct, and it could go into market research catagory as well. Sounds like you know the deal.

It's called Experimental Exibition. Program letters and NM restrictions may apply. -Matt

There are many experts here on MS! Welcome Herk! Tell us what you'd like to know. Most of our opinions eventually aligne with the prudent safe decisions about the aircraft. Best, Matt

It is sitting on a ramp some where at a ups hub. They have a weird system that stuff gets hung up between the jet and sorting facility. If it's insured, I would start that process. Either way it will most likely show up in the next week. Ups freight or ups? -Matt

I've had good luck with a credit card As an ice/frost scraper To the coward half of the wing top side. I never have the fluid when I need it... PA-44, 182, 172 and a Super D all worked well. -Matt

Beautifully insane! So the screen below your ADI in the old pic went TU? (King EHSI?) I liked flying the g500 in a Legacy for a while! At the time, 2011, Garmin had not released the protocalls for it to work with the true trac sorcerer AP. The bug and preslect functions would not link to the AP. However, Testing the terrain mode at 250 TAS was fun. Enjoy! -Matt

Airplane flight manual supplement

MDH used to have a self serve MO-Gas pump. Not sure is they still do. Makes an airplane with an o-320 sound like a good idea. -Matt

The Dealers have the Updated software cards and charge per update to their customers. The last 530 update I had done was around $125. I have no idea how much Garmin charges for the cards, but will not deal with the end user directly. The shop came to me and did the updates on a few of the other aircraft I maintain. No re-rack or bench required other than pull S/N's. -Matt

Nicely Done 601! -Matt

Check the prop hub itself and logs for a service sticker. A lot of newer prop overhauls are using Aeroshell 5... Currently, On the wheel bearings I've been using synthetic mobil SHC-100. Most larger aircraft wheels are using this now so I'm set up in the shop with it. I've uses Aeroshell 5 for the wheel bearings in the past. Lasar has the premix Aeroshell 7 and molybdenum for the gear actuator if your electric. -Matt

Was the grease replaced in the bearings? With fresh grease, take it down till it compresses all the grease. (Sounds like you have) , then back it off untill it spins freely. There should not be any bearing play felt with a left and right twist of the wheel. I have never seen a final torque on a 500x5 wheel. Jet wheels are usually torqued initially pretty high, then have a final torque of about half of what the initial was. On a photo flight once I noticed a wheel on a Pitts spinning in flight, I checked it out later and it was too loose. Ended up making a small spacer to get the cotter pin to line up. Did you miss a spacer on install? That's all I've got, I don't think Mooney gave too much thought to wheel maintenance. It was the similar 500x5 wheel used since the 30's. -Matt

If it's a first run cylinder I would have it repaired/overhauled vs buying or exchanging...

Good Question! I think I used 2 on each. I want to say the gasket/overhaul kit I think has enough for two on each tube. I don't think 1 has enough spring pressure to stay put. If your putting it back together today and need an answer, 2 can't hurt... -Matt

I think the halogen par36 lamps last longer than the PAR46 lamps. I couldn't get the Par46 lamps to last on the CJ I maintain longer than 75hrs. I'd leave them alone if your having good luck with them! Where are your lights located? I sware I was changing lights in an M20M (wing mounted hard to get to) every oil change. Just all depends on how much you like changing bulbs. I bet the 2 halogens are pretty bright!! I've been happy with AeroLED, Whelen, and Teldyne. Just depends on the purpose and price point. Poorly typed/spelled from my IPhone. -Matt

Sherman! Meet Airbornpinata! He might have what your looking for... Unless it's really full of corrosion, is doesn't get much cheaper. http://mooneyspace.com/topic/13732-family-going-from-4-to-5-looking-to-sell-my-m20e-asking-33k/#entry182933 -Matt

They just click in place of the old 90° units. And the lightbulb is like any other. With The nice satin black paint the housings come in, you will find your self touching up other things in that area too. - Matt