Andy95W

Well, that certainly changes my opinion of your decision. I truly hope it all works out for the best.

Military pilots have always been in high demand because of the quality of the training. Duh. The problem is that except for post WWII and post Vietnam, there just aren't enough Military pilots to fill the job openings at the airlines. I've flown with former C-130 and P-3 Orion guys who did a great job. My last trip was with an A-10 guy who was fantastic. But the guys who came from the regional airlines with 5,000 hours hand-flying ILS approaches to minimums were definitely just as good (and a little better at understanding the job, frankly.)

I'm with Ross. The differentiation is whether or not the case is opened. You can replace all the cylinders (top overhaul) and never open the case. When you do open the case (bottom end) lots of other ADs and SBs come into play and the cam and lifters get replaced if necessary.

Sometime in the next 2-10 years, you and your wife will be sitting in a restaurant and you'll hear yourself say, "If it was just a little bit lighter in here, I could actually read this stupid menu." That's how you'll know you're less than a year from needing reading glasses.

@cliffy mentioned this a few years ago. Not sure if he actually went through with it. As a J-bar owner and A&P, I'm wondering why you're asking?

That looks pretty normal for a carbureted Lycoming. There are a few hints to getting EGTs more even. First, try pulling the throttle back until the Manifold Pressure needle just barely moves. This tilts the carburetor butterfly valve over so it will "swirl" the air/fuel mixture as it enters the induction manifold. Then, try adding a tiny bit of carburetor heat. Not so much that it decreases your power, but just a little to help atomize the fuel a little better. Once you do these things, the EGTs will even out some and you will probably even be able to lean the mixture a little bit more.

M20s before mid1963 did not have the push to start function, and they did have SoS. They are the ones that have the extra switch to disable the starter relay. I modified my M20C to use the ACS switch without push-to-start, fully documented on a 337, and submitted to the FAA. My basis for approval was that the switch is PMA'ed for other aircraft and that I placed the aircraft into a configuration previously approved by the manufacturer. I added the switch to disable the starter IAW previous serial numbers. The way I rationalized this mod could only apply to the M20C and M20D, both of which have this configuration shown in the electrical schematic in the service manual. The M20E and up do not.

Skip, you may be channeling your inner Anthony. Jus' sayin.

That's great that you identified the problem! Now you just have to get the humming seal out of your baggage area...

Good reading, and will make you a fan of Don Maxwell if you weren't already: http://donmaxwell.com/shower-of-sparks/

Thanks, Byron, I was hoping you'd submit something from your experiences (and kudos for remembering from OSH that I fly the Airbus!) My question, then, is that in spite of the cables and pulleys, if the MCAS system gets erroneous information and commands a pitch down, how do the pilots override the system? On the Airbus we know how to disable the responsible computers to force it to react to pilot inputs. Is the MAX simply too new for this to become institutional knowledge? (And, BTW, for non-airline pilots like Byron, the Airbus is incredibly safe and I don't know of any instances where this actually had to be done. But we know how to do it just in case.)

Thanks for stopping back! Good luck finding an airplane, and please keep us posted.

Yes, but you must have the data for the 63/64 printed out also. (Or downloaded or whatever.)

Welcome to MooneySpace! It's a great community we have here. You're going to love and be overwhelmed by OSH!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Do this exactly. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Bob knows what he's talking about.

I agree with Michigan man. When I climb at WOT, my CHTs creep up to 420°. When I climb at 25/25, they stay around 380-400. More power produces more heat. Extra fuel helps, but it doesn't change that fact.

The problem is that computers fly the airplanes. The pilot or autopilot directs the computers. If the computers get conflicting information, or worse, the wrong information, they will react in unexpected ways.

Well, maybe not a dead spot, per se, but general wear and corrosion on things like brushes and armatures. Basically, my suggestion was a quick and dirty (and cheap) thing to try to see if it helps. From what I remember of BK autopilots, the test circuit checks all sorts of continuities and components before it gives the ok. Yours, for some reason, doesn't seem to like talking to the trim until it's all warmed up- which could point toward either dirty contacts or perhaps a clutch mechanism that takes a while to wake up. This could also explain why sometimes you need to move the trim for the autopilot to test properly. Going along with the checking components/etc.- the trim switch could have crud on the contacts as well, but it normally gets exercised enough to keep them clean. But I'll be the first to say that I'm no expert at autopilots. I'm just throwing out some ideas that are (barely) worth the electrons they're printed with!

If nobody here has one, try @Alan Fox or @acpartswhse or give LASAR a call for a used one.

This is my guess as well. I have a 20 year old STEC-50 and occasionally it will do exactly what you described. I do not have electric trim.

I'm going to guess a "dead" spot on the electric trim motor. Have you tried running the trim full up and full down about 10 or 20 times (with the engine running, of course)?

DAMN that's impressive.

It took me a while, but I get the "J to K" trade now from the other thread!