Andy95W

If it's only 6 bucks, I need to give them a call! My 4500 hasn't held for years.

Supercop- the Service Manual shows 2 different parking brake valves, the 4200 and 4500. You'll need to put your eyes on whatever is installed in your plane to see which one you have. If you have the 4200, life is good- simple o-rings to replace. The 4500 is a different animal, and then it depends where and how it's leaking. If it's dripping on your carpet, it's not too bad. If it's no longer holding your brakes, it's probably the seat assembly from the parts list- and those are pricy, if you can find someone to sell you one.

I get it. And the step up to something with electric gear, flaps and trim like a new Ovation is kinda spendy!

I totally agree, and that's probably one of the biggest differences in the Johnson bar/ hydraulic flaps and electric models. It's almost impossible to partially retract the hydraulic flaps, and if the speed gets too fast it's really hard to retract the gear. Every other airplane I fly/have flown, it's always flaps/gear/flaps on the go around.

Again, if it's a "wild ride", you're either not doing it right or not practicing enough.

I'm not going to argue with you about how to do a go around- please remember that I fly the exact same airplane type as you. The point I'm trying to get across is that "quickly" is one thing, but it should never be frantic. (Unless you're doing a go around in a box canyon in the Idaho back country. Pretty sure that doesn't apply to either of us.) You should never get the "mother of all pitch up motions" from adding full power smoothly. A steady, smooth application of power that takes about 2-3 seconds is easily counteracted by elevator pressure to maintain about 75-80 mph. Roll in a few (about 2 or 3) spins on the trim and you're ready to retract the gear. Retract the flaps and the airspeed will come up nicely as the nose pitches down upon flap retraction. Now you have plenty of time to go to 25/25 if you desire, turn off the fuel pump, and open the cowl flaps. And this is the one time I will invoke my decades and thousands of hours- if it feels frantic, then it needs to be practiced more. Doing 4 or 5 practice go arounds at 3,000 AGL will do wonders. And "firewalling the throttle" should be smooth, steady, and gradual- not split-second and frantic.

I have a Johnson bar Mooney, Michael. The "after take off checklist" I'm referring to would be completed as you're climbing through 1,000-1,500 feet or so leaving the traffic pattern or joining downwind. Having more than a year and a half of my life off the ground, I can't think of anything that is particularly "frantic". I have found that with that many hours, I make mistakes with much more confidence than I used to.

To each their own, but especially in the winter I try to keep as much warm air inside the cowling as possible particularly if I do have to do a go around. Cylinder temperatures at idle with the cowl flaps open would probably be down around 150°. Going from that to 350° would be hard on cylinders. The least important thing to do on a go around is open the cowl flaps. Even in summer the CHTs won't climb that high, that fast that they couldn't wait for the after takeoff checklist to open them. But again, to each their own, as long as they're safe.

It is normal for a multi-engine aircraft. On our airplanes, we check that the prop will go to coarse pitch, which means you have to be in the governing range (or above 1700, like you said). On multi-engine airplanes, you also have to check that the prop goes into feather, which means you must not be in the governing range, or some rpm well below 1700.

We're really talking about this AGAIN?

The cheapest option may be to call a few overhaul shops, email them a picture, and see if they'll change it for you. A different model of the same AI might have the other style indicator.

The interior lighting on the Enterprise was really cool looking and seemed to work well. Touch sensitive on/off as well. I wonder if there was ever a mod to use something like that in a vintage Mooney? Of course, I'm talking about the Enterprise NC-1701-D, not the original. IIRC, the original had toggle switches. A cheaper option would be to call LASAR and get a used replacement switch. The light is pretty easy to remove and disassemble.

Thanks! I'll try that next time I have decent temperatures and ceilings. So, maybe mid-April.

Yes, it has the interconnect springs. The interconnect mechanism is identical to later models, such as the '67 M20C that I used to own. Below is an old picture before I cleaned it up. In the photo, the springs are disconnected from the rudder pushrod. I was in the process of removing it and figured I should take a picture first.

Paul- @gsxrpilot- when do you lower the gear on your power off 180s? I tried doing some today, they were ugly but safe. In the "Check Gear!" thread, you mentioned an instructor who had taught you to not let the gear warning sound- either add power, or lower the gear, but do something to silence the horn. I can't imagine doing the power off 180 without hearing the gear horn a lot. Wondered what your experience is now that you're starting the Commercial.

Thanks, Skip, for the explanation. I always wondered why that was the case. The Mooney's ailerons weren't always beveled (see picture, below). They were changed in 1965 when the PC system was added to the airplane. The original ailerons, like mine in the picture, required higher forces to move them and weren't acceptable for the PC servos. I had this conversation with Russell Stallings of SWTA about a year before he died. He noted that because of the aileron design, STEC servos were the only ones that were strong enough to effectively move the ailerons at speed under an air load. I wonder if or how this will be addressed by TruTrak.

My flaps speed is 20mph less than gear speed... just like the 67 M20C I used to own. I think it changed in 1968/69 to 125 (from 100).

A few years ago, the creator of the "Little Timmy" thread petitioned the administrators to create exactly the type of category requested in this thread. It lasted less than a week, and was mostly the same 5 people talking at each other.

No, the B hub doesn't change the tach. You would have to change propeller types (such as a 3-blade or the scimitar Top Prop) to get rid of the red arc or change it.

Good luck on your IR, Fred. In 1992 I had to use Microsoft Flight Simulator 3.0 running on a second-hand computer with a 386 processor. Compared to that, your "computer problems" don't really sound that bad! On the plus side, it is proof that any simulation, no matter how poor, helps with the Instrument Rating.

The red and white striped Mooneys actually came that way from the factory, it was their AT version, for Advancèd Trainer. It was basically a 12 volt MSE.

A lead deposit. The old Texan IA I learned from used to call them "clinkers", no ida why.

Which bulb, the one that was referenced in 2010, 2014, 2018, or last Wednesday?