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Hector

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Everything posted by Hector

  1. If he agrees to come I’m sure you will find MooneySpacers willing to pitch in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Never heard of this either!! Agree, even 5 inches would be great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. My A20s actually work quite well. A little better ANR than my Zulu 3’s but not as comfortable over several hours. The Bose just clamp more than the Zulus and they get uncomfortable after 2.5 hours. That being said, they do pretty well at cutting down the noise. Some folks here swear by the Halos ad Clarity Aloft. Both PNR, in-your-ear plugs. Way more comfortable than regular headsets and if you get a good fit (you can have custom ear pieces made that match your ears exactly) they offer very good noise reduction. I don’t own one of these and I’m just repeating the comments I read from those that own them. I read somewhere that Clarity Aloft will let you try them for 30 days if you call them so maybe an option you can try. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. I replace my vacuum pump at 500 hours. The last one failed, incredibly, at 499 hours. I do have a backup electric AI so it was no big deal. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Something to think about, if you get the very high aspect ratio monitors (very wide curved monitor) I have seen some where you can’t see the instrument panel and outside view at the same time. You have to pan down to see the instrument panel. It did not look quite right and I would prefer to get 3 monitors that are taller. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Your single factory EGT is likely on your #3 cylinder exhaust (unless someone has moved it), however, given that your engine starts to run very rough before reaching peak on #3 I would say one of your other cylinders is peaking way before #3. In your case I would pay attention where the EGT gage is when the engine starts to run rough then enrich to 100 ROP from that point if above 65% power. You will probably still be a bit less than 100 ROP on the leanest cylinder but probably fine if temps are cool. In my C it is not always #3 that peaks first. In fact, I see #4 peak first quite often depending on circumstances. I do have a JPI730 installed. BTW, I think the magic number for C’s is 46 not 47. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. I suggested this not out of the blue, but because it is happening to me right now. I started to notice than if I filled up the tanks I would lose a 2-3 gallons very slowly over a week or two and then the fuel level would remain steady. No stains on the outside. This only happened if I topped it off and let the plane sit for a while. I thought it might be redistribution,change in temp, etc., BUT it was happening on the right tank only so none of that made sense. I removed the access panel just forward of the front spar and sure enough I spotted blue stains along the upper spar cap to skin interface near the wing root. Obviously I have a very slow leak that evaporates faster than it can find the drain holes. After I lose a few gallons and the fuel level lowers below the upper spar cap I stop losing fuel. My tanks have lasted over 30 years without a leak (as far as I can tell from the logbooks) so I guess I’m doing pretty well but it looks like it is that time again in the very near future. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. I carry a seat belt extender in my plane just for that. Had a friend pushing 275 fly with me a few times and thankfully I anticipated the issue and was ready. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Was not even aware there was such a thing. Would love to see a picture. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Also, if your plane sits outside you should really get a cover for it. I keep mine in a hangar but when I travel the cover goes on anytime the plane sits outside overnight. My cover is made specially for my C and it extends forward just enough to cover these panels. That being said, here in Florida we get rain all the time and I fly through it occasionally and sealing the panels as I have shown works, as long as you replace any damaged weather strip. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Wanted to thank you for the offer but in the end I found a shop that repairs these at a reasonable price and that’s what I’m doing. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. Indeed!!! Maybe an awl would be best[emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Here are some pics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Thought I did but could not find it. I’ll be at the airport tomorrow and will take a picture. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. I put some under the middle piece too. Like Raptor said, don’t tape over the rain channel/groove. The tape easily splits down the middle (it is build so you can do that easily). In some area you will only need to use half the tape width in others the full tape width works better. I apply it over the screw holes then come back and use an owl to poke a hole on the tape over the screw holes. The tape is very flexible so you’ll never actually leave a hole in it unless you use a hole punch, but you don’t need to. The screw will find the hole and it will keep from tearing the tape as it goes in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. In my old Garmin radio the side tone drifted over the years getting louder until it got uncomfortably loud (either that or my hearing has been improving as I get older but I seriously doubt that because my wife says I can’t hear sht$&). Anyway, I finally went into the settings and adjusted the side tone back to a very comfortable level). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  17. My plane has a similar switch. It does take a little bit of getting used to press the button to switch NAV sources but it becomes second nature after a while. That being said in a stressful situation I can easily see this being forgotten introducing some confusion. Been there, but quickly realized the problem. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  18. That does not look like a crack. Scratch most likely. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  19. Wow, thank you. That could work I hope. I’ll talk to the tech (hangar fairy has been fired) and see if a parts transplant is possible. If the wafer transplant is not possible maybe the gear is. I’ll pm you for details Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Already sent him a note. Has one but needs to be sent out for repair. Still an option if he gets it back before I find another. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. All: It appears my old but reliable COM2 radio (KX-170b) finally met its maker at the hands of an inept hangar fairy (me). It did not die a natural death; I killed it, although unintentionally. I had to remove it for access (new transponder for ADS-b upgrade) and I turned the allen wrench more than 360 degrees to unlock the radio destroying the wafer switch. Looking online, it appears this failure mode is beyond economical repair. When I purchased this airplane 7 years ago I had planned to replace this radio at the first sign of trouble, but it was so reliable and crystal clear I never had a reason to do so. I have an avionics upgrade planned for next year so I'm looking for an interim solution that does not involve rewiring. If anyone has a TKM MX-170 they want to sell let me know. Likewise, if you have an old KX-170b that still works I may be interested in that as well. By the way the picture below shows the wafer switch cracked in half. It is what happens when you are careless.
  22. Just got my rebate. Less than 10 days after I claimed it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  23. Have you opened the under wing access panel front spar leading edge, forward of the fuel tank. You can be leaking fuel inside the wing and if slow enough will not see a stain outside. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  24. Spoke with the Garmin rep for over an hour during SnF about the 175 and 375. He said something big would be announced by OSH and I would remember he said so. Could not get him to spill the beans but a 175 or 375 with built in COM would be really nice. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  25. I read somewhere that in our planes the tach time is roughly equivalent to run time at 2500 rpm or so. If you are spending a portion of the flight at 2700 and the rest mostly at 2500 then total tach time may be a little over Run time Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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