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I got a silicone case for it and sit it on the glareshield in front of me. I’m tall enough that it isn’t in my line of sight. For T/O and landing, it is on the floor, under my seat.

Pics on where you have it? Thanks!

Turbo is sad to announce he will be missing MooneyMax this year. We were looking forward to the closer proximity this year, but the dates didn’t work out. I hope everyone enjoys Branson.

No stall warning through headset on my J, just the Sonalert.

I thought it would be nice, but it’s way better than that. Once you get the power delivery equation solved, you’ll never want to fly without it. Talk about being spoiled, this is the cat’s pajamas. Ain’t technology great?

dkkim: Thanks for the sylvan metaphor. I don't suspect the wire as where I tested at the end of the line, I had voltage, and when grounding that out, juice was flowing in the circuit. If the wiring shorted out between the battery and the sounding device, the breaker would have tripped. If the wire shorted out after the sound device and the stall vane switch, I wouldn't have voltage at the switch, which I did. I have great hope for the noisemaker being the issue. If that fails to be the issue, I think the next logical step would be to check my hearing, which unfortunately would then open the door to medical metaphors. Jer

EGTs can vary between cylinders based on probe position and probe angle, the exhaust runners in the Bravo engine are short and not well tuned, flow patterns in the exhaust runners vary with rpm, throttle position and fuel flow, thus temp, keep your TIT below 1580 and your CHTs below 480, the engine will purr and more than likely make TBO, Gamis and fine wire plugs help in the Bravo engine, I run the engine at 2250 rpm 30.5" for max continuous cruise, lower rpm and higher boost appears to produce more complete combustion, thus lower EGTs, when stretching range I reduce power to 2250 rpm 26" while maintaining 1580 TIT

I’ll usually look for a bad ground when flaky readings present themselves. Can you “T” the line for a test with an analog gauge?

I have a J model with a JPI EDM900 installed. Lately after startup the fuel pressure has been indicating over 30 psi. With or without boost pump on. During runup it sometimes indicates above 30. After takeoff, it indicates 27-28 psi. It seems unlikely that an engine driven fuel pump is going to go over max. rated pressure at any engine speed < redline. Suspect a transducer problem. Anybody dealt with this? I'm not worried about it- I just don't like it. Anyone got a working spare they'll part with? The part is made by Kavlico, with 0-30 range outputting 50mV at 30psi. EDIT: Added screencap of JPI data. The red line is MAP, light blue line is FP. You can see after I took off, it went back down into the normal range. Had a time mid-flight there were FP was pretty noisy.

rear seat belt can hold B-cool, I have dual batteries, run B-cool on #1, start airplane on #2, pre-cool airplane in hangar battery minder plugged in, top off ice to the brim, pull out airplane with B-cool running, jump into cool airplane, B-cool will run about 45 min when really topped, it helps to fill bottom with large ice blocks from plastic food containers, increases mass, top off with ice from FBO ice machine, not perfect but refrigeration system costs 100x more and is typically permanently installed so it has to be carried around in winter

Yeah, but that costs money too- I didn't see it as my problem. Who better to repaint than a prop shop? Their repainting job didn't stick so I doubt that an A&P rattle can paint job would have. Anyhow, that propeller and the aircraft it is attached to is no longer mine. I just offered my experience to help the OP make a decision. I would not spend money on a new Hartzell Top Prop if I could find a good used prop with a B hub. It ain't worth it, and Hartzell did have a QA/QC problem with the one that I bought that was not resolved to my satisfaction.

FWIW, one of the few things an A&P can do to a prop is paint it. You don't need to take it off and send it to the shop if there's an A&P that will paint it in-place for you.

+1

That single row of rivets around the large cross-section of the tailcone/cabin joint provides a LOT of structural capability, actually. And the loads from the tail aren't enormous either... it obviously works well enough with the vast fleet history. I removed the tailcone from my salvage plane long ago... drilling out the rivets isn't awful at all once you get some practice. Dealing with the sealant in the joint was a bit more difficult, but I didn't use heat like I should have to make it easier. I completely agree with the Maxwell method vs. removing the wing. Avoid that if at all possible to save time on the back end.

This is an interesting topic and one I’ve been wondering about myself. I’ve been seeing larger than usual spotting in the hangar out the breather tube. Oil consumption is less than stellar somewhere in the 3-4 hours per quart range, oil analysis shows consistently high chrome, but Boroscopy hasn’t revealed any smoking guns so I haven’t worried about it too much just waiting on any further signs of distress. “Compressions” as the alt test that could isolate one cylinder hasn’t pointed one out. Gosh if we could just have a looksie at rings and cams without major surgery we’d nearly put the forums out of business bc there would be nothing to talk about. Haha. Air cooled piston aircraft engines are just a perfectionists nightmare.

https://www.trade-a-plane.com/search?category_level1=Single+Engine+Piston&make=MOONEY&model=M20J+201&listing_id=2446769&s-type=aircraft Just to share another example of why an E in the mid-$100k range isn't unreasonable, here is a $215K M20J with a low-time engine, nice interior, nice panel. An E at $160k with all the J-mods equipped comparably is a $55k savings, and if you never needed space in the rear seats, you win.

Somehow, now knowing that the tail of my plane is ONLY held on by a single row of rivets is NOT comforting!

100% correct. But the posts should fall out or get loose with just removal of the cowl. I had this happen on way too many to be coincidence. Especially when I’ve never had this happen to me before.

Don't they turn into 50 pound+ missiles on the back of your head when the plane comes to a sudden stop?

I've had some pins come out of Skybolt 2700's too, but only if they were too short. Most of mine were too short after painting the belly panel and cowl (my painter painted the underside of the cowl and one-piece belly panel increasing the thickness. It should take very little torque to latch the stud if it is the proper length.

After getting bladders installed, I wanted all the gunked up fuel stains removed. I tried everything; 100LL, Acetone, Mineral Spirits, maybe MEK; can't remember. I ended up hiring a detailer to polish and wax the plane. They ended up doing exactly what you suggest; rubbing compound, polish, sealer, and a lot of grunt work. I have no idea how many polishing pads they went through; I doubt they could be washed and reused.

Unless they are broken, wait until its time to overhaul again. Everything is going to be in the way. Its hard enough to put a set of new mounts on there with no accessories. I would not touch this unless absolutely no other choices.

The door (especially the top) is in a low pressure area and sucks air out of the cabin. The air in has to come from somewhere- usually through the back cabin bulkhead. If one looks at the bulkhead from the access panel you should see any holes sealed up including where wire bundles pass through down on the lower left corner. The usual sealant is a clay like substance. Lots of air gets sucked into the cabin if the rear bulkhead is not sealed with a leaky door. What flows along the fuselage to get sucked in? CO As mentioned the floor inside is sealed with aluminum tape. With a good door seal (to stop the "out") and a well sealed aft bulkhead things become manageable

And it is not that many rivets. You are not disassembling the tail, just drilling out the one row around the tail cone

TLDR: I'm having quality issues with the Skybolts with loose t-posts or posts that fall out. Have never run into this issue with CamLoc brand. Got the Mooney back from paint and needed to get my cowl sorted out...evidently some of the larger 4000 series Skybolts weren't retained...it appears that that retention ring wasn't able to get enough purchase under the lip on the inner side. I also decided to "upgrade" to the 2800 series with the slightly wider flange, and apply split washers to the inside for retention. Long story short...for some reason I've had 6 of the new stainless Skybolts where the T-post is either loose or fell out of the 2800 series I purchased. And I had 5 of these in the 2700 series that were installed at paint that had the same happen. Skybolts are priced much cheaper than CamLoc and look nice, but the quality doesn't seem to measure up. Initially I had thought the ones at the paint shop may have been over torqued or somehow damaged. I called Skybolt and they're sending a return label, but mentioned that I wasn't the first person to hear about this in the past month. I also took the time to map out all the sizes of the camlocs. I found that with paint it made some of the 4000 (larger size) grommets (SK-HS standard size Mooney grommet) not able to seat the snap ring properly and so the large camloc and grommet falls out with removal. I'll try one of the other sized grommets (SK-O18S) to see if this might work...I'm not sure the clearance between the cowl and receptacle below and if it will tolerate a longer grommet projecting behind the cowl or not. We'll see. Couple other learning points: nylon washers weren't needed to retain the split washer (2600SW). Only need these if your hole is big enough to pull the split washer back through... Camloc pliers are super helpful with the 4000 series as well as making it easier in general. IPC shows -4 size for the sides...but most of mine are -5's and -6's for the top cowl. I made a "map" for my cowl but I need to renew my MS membership so I can add a picture. Back corners are 2 sizes larger than the rest. 2800 series are mostly 1 size larger than the 2700 series as they don't sit down in the hole as deep, however the 2700 series that sit "proud" used the same size, and the ones that sit "super tight" needed one size up and still were a little snug. Snap rings: They have a R4TS and a R4GS. But with the thickness of the Mooney cowl, you don't have enough clearance for the R4T...its wider but it's also thicker (and they are a PITA to get off without a tool. The R4G is what you want and it's much easier to get off.