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I do not know what the difference between dry and wet pump and how does that effect whether there is a oil separator on the engine and is that available for mooney aircraft?

As mentioned before, MEK works but is aggressive. Acetone is gentler on the paint but is nearly as effective as MEK at dissolving avgas dye. The main challenge with acetone is that it evaporates rapidly, especially on a hot day when rubbing a hot airplane. It's boiling point of 133°F is 50°F lower than MEK. It's also more than twice as volatile in terms of its vapor pressure rating. Storing it in the hangar fridge helps to delay evaporation during use. It is also way easier to obtain than MEK and relatively cheap.

Yes! thank you, i guess i didnt dig deep enough!

Beechcraft updated there spec in 1972 to a dry pump from wet. when owners go all electric or dry they do the swap in tubing There are four versions on singles Iam the only one that has provided the ability to Cnc to sample in 304

Away from my references and trying to remember this. I do the same thing, but also keep the wx page zoomed out. I like North up at larger scales, and I believe there's a setting to set a zoom threshold where it switches. Might check that as it could affect the display.

, We understand. You're not out of the woods yet. Going straight to the noisemaker makes sense. But if that doesn't work, you might consider testing the wire. I hear stories around here of things wearing where they cross metal, especially if not secured with a clamp. Just a thought.

Smirking here...the question was if anyone has used mouse milk to remove the fuel stain. "I saw on a previous post that someone had great success using mouse milk to remove a gas stains. Not sure if the details but has anyone used it with any success? I’ve read all the threads on out other suggestions to remove stains, but it seems like limited success with everything else." So, to answer the question, I have not used mouse milk to remove the fuel dye stain. However, I have also removed the stain by using fuel on a cloth. The dye transfers to the cloth easily, without much rubbing effort.

The original Hartzell on my C was condemned because it had been overhauled the maximum allowable number of times. Both blades with root diameter under min. limit. So I bought a Hartzell "Top Prop" to replace it. I saw no increase in speed. It might have been a little bit quieter, but not obviously so. I had it installed in August. The paint started to come off the stripes on tips the first time I flew through rain, in Sept. Took it back to the shop where I bought it and they repainted it in Nov. I paid (again) to have it reinstalled. Next time I flew through rain- paint started coming off again. Repainted in November, and here is a photo of what it looked like the following June. Hartzell couldn't care less. The prop shop said that they would keep repainting it if I returned it to their shop. It costs money to remove/reinstall a prop, and the prop shop wouldn't pay. Hartzell couldn't rub two coins together. I never landed on grass or taxied through weeds. Nothing unusual. Just flew through rain. My experience with the Hartzell Top Prop was not positive. If I had it to do over again, I'd try to find a good used prop with a "B" hub.

GI-275 ADAHRS+AP units work just fine with the KAP and KFC 150 series autopilots. The KAP will not have flight bars and there is no alt preselect functions with a GI-275. You must follow the alignment procedure outlined in the GI-275 IM when interfacing with the King autopilot. We have done this interface multiple times on various airframes and no issues. Make sure whoever is the installing shop knows this interface, has the KTS158 or has built the breakout harness in the GI-275 IM before, and has done the alignment to the flight computer.

And if you’re worried about those things you can use the supplemental bottle. these portable generators are NOT good above 15k for two people or 18k for 1. Pressurized bottles and on demand delivery is by far cheaper, and better in every scenario anyway, so I don’t know why anyone would consider this. (Yes, I have tested this scientifically and am working to put together the data)

I have the Scimitar on my C. I was getting about 145 knots TAS for many years. Then I had it overhauled mostly due to time. Nothing wrong with the prop itself. At the same time I had a new governor put on. Prior to the new governor My prop was having difficulty cycling on the ground and the RPM always drifted in flight. Now it's rock solid and I am getting 150 knots TAS.

seems to me that a metal stand off heat shield on the exhaust pipe should also be fashioned for that area. Trying to remember if there was not one on the F model

Thanks everybody! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this what you are looking for? From the download section: https://mooneyspace.com/files/file/177-m20-series-service-and-maintenance-manual-1968-1978-1pdf/ If not, there are other factory manuals available there if you look around.

Snowbird Mooney on FB did a comparison on the I think it was between 3 blade Hartzell v 2 Blade McCauley prop on mid 60's C Models. .https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FrEx4EzV4NJM%3Fsi%3D4RMULGDEmuZ8hZkY%26fbclid%3DIwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR64Xg2d9PKKDhfq0o3eC7S73m4z3ArfH99l0tcqTjPpFgkOFuYekaTu-ql07Q_aem_vlkrXj_JK4ci5At8yrLD9w&h=AT14nNGXlgnae3C_NK13855G-M7WfBYhUwHORlkZeSNQWGOqHMEGNl1aM7_uHGMG5LVa4kd2hm1fQrMe7VkxD2R82sOz1zx2fWCOanbn2iPJQG-7uD-hnWqxf95rWr4AppPCVJGqGuYzWkUaO6KdRmI&__tn__=H-R&c[0]=AT1XEye8FKfVKCOniIFJrQYQ5BewEmJLQw2PoJKpj3OopcySmphbjj6tfdMl3idb8kaDx0-6KI58LomJQOcsFj1ERS-CmWW3UeuHIDVERq0r_1mlkSCrFoq1-Cyf0sxOqcyxlp1Ea6hykjlQbmxCXyX-_g9jOe0MS5lM-sjSeLc2jFMH7Ec Top Prop 2 blade is about 3 lbs heavier than the Original 2 blade Hartzell Prop but on C models gets rid of the "avoid continuous RPM" operation restriction in Cruise. if I recall correctly on the 'E model it reduced the avoid continuous range operation in Cruise.

Just reviving this thread for a moment - does anyone have a link where to buy/find the 1970 F service/parts manual? thank you!

The point is that if you have Aithre, and you lose power you will be facing both loss of oxygen and loss of power. With Inogen you will only face loss of power. Loss of oxygen will only make a helmet fire worse. And BTW, I said loss of the power to the charging circuit. That could be a breaker issue on that circuit rather than a total loss of power to the plane. And BTW if someone wants a light Inogen just leave the battery off and run it on plane power like @Pinecone says he does in the Inogen topic.

On my F the ONLY sound comes from the Sonalert; nothing to do with headphone/speaker audio. No idea if it's different for a J.

There may be a simpler more elegant solution..... Hooks historically waived the ramp/landing fee if you purchased fuel. "Roll the fuel truck and top her off". Then he can have it dragged to the ramp with no Vector/PlanePass fee!

Thank you. I'll try an find it and test it. Does anyone have any comment on hearing the stall warning through headphones. I don't really recall that myself.

Please DM if you want to get rid of one, I pay shipping. Trying to make a seat cutting tool out of the old vernatherm

If you are looking for an M20J project plane that looks like it is in much better condition, there appears to be one in Houston at Hooks airport (KDWH). It is advertised locally in Houston on Facebook Marketplace. I have not been up to Hooks to see it personally - just looking at the current ad and the old Aircraft.com ad N204MM. 1978 M20J. Current owner claims it was hangared continuously until Dec. 2024. And that he bought it as a father/kid project but medical issues got in the way. Paint looks fairly decent in the pics - some weathering but nothing like the one you are looking at. Marketplace - 1978 Mooney M20J | Facebook From 2007 N204MM | 1978 MOONEY M20J 201 on Aircraft.com Aircraft.com ad from 2007 says Painted in 1998 with Imron JPI EDM-700 Graphic Engine Monitor (Including Fuel Flow, Voltage and Oil Temperature), 231-Style Wingtips with Enclosed Strobes, Mod Works Low Profile Gear Doors, Quarter Inch Glass Installed in 1998 Rosen Sun-Visors STEC 30 Autopilot with Altitude Hold and GPSS Roll Steering. GNS430 - may or may not be WAAS He is asking $40,000 He pulled the engine to have it overhauled but has not shipped it off yet. Possibly you could have the engine reinstalled, ferry it back up North to your home drome. Just an idea - but appears to be better condition and better equipped than the one you are looking at.

Did you ever change the fluid line from the pump to the flap actuator? If not its as old as the airplane and mine started leaking. To replace it is a little project As above- where is it leaking from? Same place as the last time?

I like the 3-blade Hartzell on my C. Need to do the three way GPS run, but when I've used the back page in my G430W, it comes up 145-148 KTAS at 7500 and up. The climb is pretty good, too.

In my F, it is in the headliner. $17 from DigiKey: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mallory-sonalert-products-inc/SC628/528117?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=120565755&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLlit1t_cdCF17FKAaGWeiA0_S&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-4XFBhCBARIsAAdNOkvHv19kfm6slsPwSpvnE730c_jKFrVanQUJYXM_hnIZtAdKFYtM3tUaAlkOEALw_wcB