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+1 on the motor mounts. I had vibration problems and dynamically balanced the prop with not noticable improvement. I then replaced the motor mounts and it is not smooth as butter.

That sounds like the best plan, but I would rather avoid another external antenna.

My M20K POH says 100 min oil temp for take off. I normally wait for 100 before run up. But my engine warms pretty quickly. If yours is taking a while, you might want to check the operation of your Vernatherm. My CAP-10 (AEIO-360) says off the peg before run up.

I may not wait 10 minutes, but I do not use full throttle until the oil temp is up. My 2002 M3 has a variable red line based on oil temp. So at start, it may be limited to 6000 RPM, while once the oil temp is up, it goes up to 8000.

I had a local aircraft upholstery shop do my entire interior. I have done several 5 hourish flights and a few 7 hour ones. So the comfort is there. Maybe not an Aerocomfort or Oregon Aero job, but it works for me.\ FYI, you can't make the seat any thicker/higher than original with the same covers. That is putting 10 pounds in a 5 pound sack. But, new foam will have a higher seating position due to less compression.

https://wingsandwheels.com/confor-foam.html Use a cheap electric carving knife. There used to be a online guide somewhere ...

https://www.beechtalk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=241863&start=24

Foam is not just foam. Nor can you build up a seat with one density of foam and have it comfortable. It requires knowledge and skill to layer different densities at the right places. Yes, you can "schlock" foam onto a frame and yes it looks ok, it may even sit ok...for a while. Do a 4 hour flight on a single density foam seat and your aching back will notify you of your mistake. Because of the effort and time required, do it right with the right people and the right materials and your backside will thank you.

Not even that much.

A roll cage is not “required” on my off-road rock crawling Jeep either, but I beefed it up considerably. Especially since some of my grandkids are with me sometimes.

Thanks for the suggestion, but it has already confirmed with two separate detectors. I did that before I confirmed it as an issue.

I do not want it mandated. I want pilots to do the right thing and get these portable CO detectors on their own but most will not due to the 100 dollar cost to save their life and their passengers. I remember when I installed a 406 ELT years ago. I actually got some backlash from pilots telling me it was crazy to do that being that it was "not required." I think it was 600 dollars at the time to give me the ability to be found on a map in minutes vs hours or never.....

I have said the exact same thing. Yet another reason another set of rules for GA needs to be devised. This kind of idiocy is what is actually killing our genre.

I’m curious. Do you use a screwdriver to drive and remove screws or your fingernails? I personally have no problem bending down and changing tanks by hand, but what’s wrong with using a tool to help reach?

I have the flight enhancement step and am very happy with it. I removed the vaccum system several years ago and lashed the step in the retracted position; just didn't seem right so I finally sprung for the electric step. It's very lightweight, but sturdy and well-made. Many people have it hooked up to the beacon wire; I decided to install a toggle switch on the panel, matching the avionics master right next to it. That way it's kind of like the electric window control in a car (works only when the master is on). Here's a photo of the interior view. Outside it just looks like a normal Mooney step.

@M20Kid if you’re talking about the overhead electroluminescent panel if you have overhead light switches, this can be repaired by either Air Capitol Dial or Nimbus Aviation. If it’s warped and not working they can make it new with a new internal lamp. The overhead light switches should light up with your panel lighting rotary switch.

Thanks for your perspective. I truly haven’t flown in busy airspace enough to have experienced some of those issues, sounds like it definitely needs some improvement. Working as a controller in Canada is actually a pretty sweet career with good pay. You would think they could attract more talent! I was impressed with flight following in the US. Very helpful.

Back on topic: I've timed myself from engine start to 7500 msl, power set, mixture leaned. Fifteen minutes or less, even in WV winters. Obviously, I'm based at a non-towered field.

If the oil temp needle is off the peg, I'll take off. Taxi and runup has always done that.

McMaster Carr is a good source, if you don’t need 1 lb bags of each…

The fixed step has a different mounting configuration. The retractable step is more substantial. I suspect that a fairing would not do much. It has quite a bit of parasite drag and also induces drag because it puts the airplane out of trim. It would be up to your mechanic and IA to make a determination on a fairing.

How about acquiring a retractable step for a F, leaving it down all the time and making a teardrop fairing over the square tube? Would that be considered a minor modification that a mechanic could sign for?

Is the portion of the tube that goes inside the fuselage the same square dimension as the retractable square tube? In other words is it just a matter of installing it in the square bearing blocks? (which are still there on the aft bulkhead of my F, by the way)

How did John Denver die? Hmmmmm.

I think not using your hand to feel the fuel selector,is absolutely wrong. relying on a tool is not a good way to go for safety of flight operation imo. Whether because it is to "hard" to move or because you are to gutenabled. Bad form.