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Posted

Lasar is Out of Stock and I need one. I can make the keeper wire but need a spring. Does anyone have a line for a comparable spring?

1.75” overall length 0.50”OD 0.38”ID 0.053” music wire 15#/IN spring constant. McMaster Carr doesn’t have anything and Grainger’s website has crashed since this morning and now says down for maintenance.

AC694B8F-AFF5-4158-B6F9-0271C6624279.jpeg

Posted
2 minutes ago, Fly Boomer said:

Looks like the spring is unmodified?  I was wondering how you were going to bend that spring to get what you were looking for.

I don’t think I understand. No modification necessary to the spring. It just snakes over the curved end. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, RoundTwo said:

I don’t think I understand. No modification necessary to the spring. It just snakes over the curved end. 

Nothing to understand, really,  When you posted a picture of the factory part, I thought it was all one piece.  When you posted a picture of your proposed replacement spring, I was wondering how you were going to reshape that compression spring into the "one piece" factory part.  ANSWER:  You didn't.

  • Like 1
Posted

I made a new engine baffling for the pilot side.   I started out thinking that I would make the baffle Springs/ wire assembly  so as to hold the cylinder baffles against the cylinder.   last version that was installed were not Springs but rather just safety wire twisted so as to pull the baffling against the cylinders.

 I bought the  piano wire that I needed Springs on eBay and made a bunch of baffles spring similar to what you see pictured.   The piano wire is relatively easy to band.   You need a good size solid rod so as to make the loop  and stable vice hold the material while you're bending.

 My cylinder baffles are made out of 0.090" aluminum,  and in speaking to my mechanic we decided the baffle springs may not be needed given the thickness of the material that I made the cylinder baffles from.   The baffle Springs  and wires tend to corrode the aluminum over time making it necessary to build new baffles.

 We thought it would be less of a problem  to leave the baffles springs and  wires off  completely and install the baffling as it is,  but coat the surface which lies next to the cylinder with high  temperature RTV.  

 That is the configuration I now have on the airplane.   Cylinder temperatures seem fine  and I may have eliminated the headache of the baffle springs and wires.

John Breda

Posted
7 hours ago, M20F-1968 said:

I made a new engine baffling for the pilot side.   I started out thinking that I would make the baffle Springs/ wire assembly  so as to hold the cylinder baffles against the cylinder.   last version that was installed were not Springs but rather just safety wire twisted so as to pull the baffling against the cylinders.

 I bought the  piano wire that I needed Springs on eBay and made a bunch of baffles spring similar to what you see pictured.   The piano wire is relatively easy to band.   You need a good size solid rod so as to make the loop  and stable vice hold the material while you're bending.

 My cylinder baffles are made out of 0.090" aluminum,  and in speaking to my mechanic we decided the baffle springs may not be needed given the thickness of the material that I made the cylinder baffles from.   The baffle Springs  and wires tend to corrode the aluminum over time making it necessary to build new baffles.

 We thought it would be less of a problem  to leave the baffles springs and  wires off  completely and install the baffling as it is,  but coat the surface which lies next to the cylinder with high  temperature RTV.  

 That is the configuration I now have on the airplane.   Cylinder temperatures seem fine  and I may have eliminated the headache of the baffle springs and wires.

John Breda

There’s always more than one way to skin a cat. Good job!

Posted

If you want to skip the springs and lock wire the baffling together, just get some #10 screws with the cotter pin holes in the ends. Then attach them to the baffle using lock nuts with the ends pointing at each other, then lockwire between the cotter pin holes. 

  • Like 2

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