VH-KWA

[EricJ]

8 hours ago, Denis Mexted said:

And what is it with bloody bearings on this aircraft. It's as though someone set out to put as many bearings in, with the most obscure part numbers, and kept it a secret from Dr Google. Torrington control surface bearings are impossible to find.

The IPC (Fig 29-018) shows this as a 'Rod Control'.  And although the bearing numbers are clearly visible 'the net' comes up a blank. 

I assume this is a common wear linkage in the rudder system?

If you're familiar with spherical rod ends it's not that tough to duplicate that part and make it more servicable.   That can be done under an Owner Produced Part process.

And, yes, the factory didn't do us a lot of maintainability favors in the way they made some of the rods.

[Denis Mexted]

Cliffy: Yes I joined last week. It's been a busy 8 days. My engineering mate goes home tomorrow and I feel we've accomplished a lot. The next few months it'll be up to me to gather the bits, continue the clean up and be ready for re-assemble. 

[Denis Mexted]

EricJ and M20Doc: I looked at that link assembly and thought, easy. Order a couple of new rod ends and drop around to the brilliant, and certified welder. Problem solved. 

Getting past the first step is the challenge. 

I've sorted the flap bearings. The flap bearings are MS14101-3

I've got some stuff coming from Lasar, so I'll ask about the mysterious elevator/rudder bearings. Torrington 3a. 

Thanks for everyones interest.

[Denis Mexted]

Just wondering.

How easy is it to take out this floor?

All seat rails are out at the moment. I couldn’t see too much drama in taking out the floor, but then again I’m yet to try.

[Guest]

Why do you want to take the floor out?

[Denis Mexted]

It’s quite corroded in spots.  Particularity where the outer seat rails were. 

it would be far easier to bead blast and hang in the paint booth. But is that 2 hours or 2 days of work? 

[Guest]

A Scotch Brite pad in an airpower angle buffer would get it done faster than removing the floor and reinstalling it.

[Denis Mexted]

How does one determine what mechanical fuel pump to use?

The fuel pump coming off had no part numbers to replace like for like. 

The Tempest product info gives 3 options for a M20F shown here.

And I'm scratching my head.

Any guidance appreciated. 

 

[Denis Mexted]

Hello all. 

Mechanical fuel pump sorted. I ended up phoning a guy I know who has an engine shop. 

Now to ailerons. The skins are off on one of them and I measure them at 16thou. Is this correct as it seems light. I was going down to purchase a 16 thou 2024-T3 next week. 

It would be good to use 20" not only because I already have one, but also my sheet metal man hates working 16" he tells me. 

Anyone done this?

 

 

[Denis Mexted]

Making the wiring job easy for my friends. 

I couldn't resist pulling it out and dealing with the corrosion properly Doc. I wish the back seat area was as easy. Still a bit of yuk work to do in that part of the cabin.

[N201MKTurbo]

Wow, I never took one apart that far. It’ll be happy for another 40 years!

[Denis Mexted]

Ha. I point out, nor have I. 

The floor edge (vertical inch lip on sides) had what I'd call '1,000 mile an hour tape'. As did LOTS of places. Tape everywhere.

On the floor I'm thinking of using MOX 604 silicon rubber self fusing electrical insulating tape. I know plumbers brains silicon causes corrosion issues with steel. But are there different types of silicon. Anyone using silicon tape in their aircraft?

Also I'm super impressed with the longevity of the closed cell wall insulating material. Silver on one side, adhesion on the other. Any idea of what product they used?

Ta.

 

 

[1980Mooney]

55 minutes ago, Denis Mexted said:

Also I'm super impressed with the longevity of the closed cell wall insulating material. Silver on one side, adhesion on the other. Any idea of what product they used?

Ta.

That is not original. Look in your Logs for an entry complying with Service Bulletin M20-208B. The original insulation was a glass fiber that could retain water if the windows leaked. 
https://www.mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-208B.pdf

 

[1980Mooney]

On 5/11/2023 at 2:14 AM, Denis Mexted said:

Now to ailerons. The skins are off on one of them and I measure them at 16thou. Is this correct as it seems light. I was going down to purchase a 16 thou 2024-T3 next week. 

It would be good to use 20" not only because I already have one, but also my sheet metal man hates working 16" he tells me. 

Anyone done this?

If you change the thickness of the aileron skin,   you will change the balance of the aileron. The balance weights will need to be changed. You will need to do both ailerons the same. 
 

I have never heard of it done. 
 

[Denis Mexted]

Good point 1980Mooney. I never even considered that the insulation stuck to the sidewalls wasn't original. I've only pealed off a few bits. I'll run some water holding tests with the material that a local rebuild company uses and scratch my head some more. 

Ailerons - I wasn't looking to rebuild the entire aircraft, but the one aileron we de-skinned was rotten.

The wings and fuse on this aircraft are very clean. So the state of the aileron surprised me.

I dropped the other aileron off to the sheetie and said give it back in many pieces. So I'll treat and prime both ailerons internally before reskinning. Obviously we'll balance them. 

[N201MKTurbo]

On 5/11/2023 at 12:14 AM, Denis Mexted said:

Hello all. 

Mechanical fuel pump sorted. I ended up phoning a guy I know who has an engine shop. 

Now to ailerons. The skins are off on one of them and I measure them at 16thou. Is this correct as it seems light. I was going down to purchase a 16 thou 2024-T3 next week. 

It would be good to use 20" not only because I already have one, but also my sheet metal man hates working 16" he tells me. 

Anyone done this?

 

 

If you use thicker skins, you will not only change the balance, you will change the mass significantly. This will change the flutter characteristics of the aileron. Even painting the inside is questionable. I wouldn’t mess with this. Do it like it was originally. 

[MB65E]

The ailerons with paint on the outside almost are out of balance as is. If you primed the inside I’m sure it would be over weight. Build a nice jig to keep the ailerons straight. Not rocket science but they warp easily. 
Just found your thread! Love the effort!
-Matt

[PT20J]

10 hours ago, Denis Mexted said:

Good point 1980Mooney. I never even considered that the insulation stuck to the sidewalls wasn't original. I've only pealed off a few bits. I'll run some water holding tests with the material that a local rebuild company uses and scratch my head some more. 

Ailerons - I wasn't looking to rebuild the entire aircraft, but the one aileron we de-skinned was rotten.

The wings and fuse on this aircraft are very clean. So the state of the aileron surprised me.

I dropped the other aileron off to the sheetie and said give it back in many pieces. So I'll treat and prime both ailerons internally before reskinning. Obviously we'll balance them. 

Mooney changed to the closed cell foam insulation when the 208 SB came out. I purchased some in bulk from a Mooney Service Center. Mooney buys the metalized foam from one company and has another apply the adhesive and then sends it out for burn cert. So, it’s not a product you can buy off the shelf, but you can get it from Mooney. I ripped out all the fiberglass in the ceiling and baggage compartment and replaced it with the foam. 

[Denis Mexted]

Ailerons - 16 thou sheet ordered. But there's no way it won't be primed inside. It needs it. A shame it's not an RV and I can't just order all new parts at a reasonable price. 

(I hate aeroplanes )

Is the cabin door easy to remove on a Mooney ? It would be handy to have it out of the way. 

Thanks PT20J - Good to know. 

[davesly]

On 2/12/2023 at 4:29 AM, Denis Mexted said:

I've pulled the prop and about to remove the FCU, mags etc. 

I think I'm almost ready to remove the centre cowl, maybe just the Ram Air cable to go. Any tricks with that. It looked like a two person job.

Cheers,

Denis.

 

On 2/12/2023 at 4:29 AM, Denis Mexted said:

I've pulled the prop and about to remove the FCU, mags etc. 

I think I'm almost ready to remove the centre cowl, maybe just the Ram Air cable to go. Any tricks with that. It looked like a two person job.

Cheers,

Denis.

Please take pics of the two front engine baffles (front, back and side) so I can see how they are made and attach as well as what hoses are connect to them.  I am missing those two front baffles and am going to need to make them from your pictures.  Thanks!

[Denis Mexted]

The hoses are off at the moment but I have some pics. 
I can probably pull the baffles off and send them to you if you want. (Promise to send them back) 

I have a friend who travels back and forth to LA frequently.

 

[Aerodon]

20 hours ago, Denis Mexted said:

Ailerons - 16 thou sheet ordered. But there's no way it won't be primed inside. It needs it. A shame it's not an RV and I can't just order all new parts at a reasonable price. 

(I hate aeroplanes )

Is the cabin door easy to remove on a Mooney ? It would be handy to have it out of the way. 

Thanks PT20J - Good to know. 

Priming is nice, but a lot of work.  And without a proper etch and alodyne (new equivalent), you will have adhesion problems.  And primer is good at sticking, not so good at corrosion protection.  A lot of research was done on the unexpected corrosion problems of space shuttle, I learned a lot from that reporting.  Super Koropon is a really nice thin primer, but needs to be covered with a clear coat.  My 1993 supercub had primed and clear coated parts all over the place, they must have read the same report.  And ground tabs for everything all over the place too.

My current preferred option is to get set up for a good etch, alodyne and wash.  That way new parts are better than 95% of the old parts and will never be a problem again.

Aerodon

 

 

 

 

[davesly]

7 hours ago, Denis Mexted said:

The hoses are off at the moment but I have some pics. 
I can probably pull the baffles off and send them to you if you want. (Promise to send them back) 

I have a friend who travels back and forth to LA frequently.

 

That would be awesome.  I have a 3D scanner which can create CAD models of them.  I'll definitely pay for your hassle and any shipping costs both ways.  One week turnaround on my part.  Doesn't take long to scan.

[davesly]

On 5/11/2023 at 2:14 AM, Denis Mexted said:

Hello all. 

Mechanical fuel pump sorted. I ended up phoning a guy I know who has an engine shop. 

Now to ailerons. The skins are off on one of them and I measure them at 16thou. Is this correct as it seems light. I was going down to purchase a 16 thou 2024-T3 next week. 

It would be good to use 20" not only because I already have one, but also my sheet metal man hates working 16" he tells me. 

Anyone done this?

 

 

Which fuel pump was correct?

[Denis Mexted]

I’ll come back to you early next week. It hasn’t arrived yet and I don’t have the invoice.