Oil Change Drain Tube

[gwav8or]

Welp it's time for my first oil change.  I have a quick drain but am trying to figure out what size tube to buy that will fit snugly.  I've done this on previous planes but didn't keep the tube and don't remember what size I used.  So, does anybody know in general what size tube to use on the quick drain? Any other recommendations for my first oil change?  I will be doing oil analysis but probably won't cut the filter as I don't have the tool or expertise to know exactly what to look for.  May do that in the future, though.

[N201MKTurbo]

There are a number of different quick drains. They all use different size hoses. Just measure it and go to the auto parts store and get some fuel/oil hose and go for it. You may need to put a ty-wrap or lock wire on the hose to keep it from falling off after the hot oil hits it. It can make a big mess...

 

BTW, I use gas cans to drain the oil into, they are easier to transport and dump than an open bucket.

[Hank]

My quick drain uses 3/8" silicone tubing from the local Big Box store. While you're there, buy a coupler then sand one end down to be a loose fit--now you can loop the hose after using it and not drip oil all year until your next oil change.

Here's how I do mine:

Please ignore where I say to test fly the plane before putting the cowling back on, that's a bad idea which I have never tried . . . . .

[A64Pilot]

I think the clear cheap stuff is Vinyl, and I use the cheap stuff

[PT20J]

It’s really a good idea to examine the filter media. Lycoming has a service instruction that describes what to look for. Your friendly A&P may cut it open for you or loan you the tool, but the tool is not expensive. I used to carefully cut them open with a hacksaw which, if you are slow and careful, can be done without contaminating the filter media.

[Bolter]

5 hours ago, gwav8or said:

Welp it's time for my first oil change.  I have a quick drain but am trying to figure out what size tube to buy that will fit snugly.  I've done this on previous planes but didn't keep the tube and don't remember what size I used.  So, does anybody know in general what size tube to use on the quick drain? Any other recommendations for my first oil change?  I will be doing oil analysis but probably won't cut the filter as I don't have the tool or expertise to know exactly what to look for.  May do that in the future, though.

If you look up the quick drain by log book entry or matching appearance to photos of popular ones at Aircraft Spruce, you can then look up what size hose it is designed for.  For example, I had the SAF-AIR OIL DRAIN VALVE on my J, and the SAF-AIR website says all their quick drains are for 3/8" ID hose.  https://www.saf-air.com/products/oil-valves.html 

[A64Pilot]

2 hours ago, PT20J said:

It’s really a good idea to examine the filter media. Lycoming has a service instruction that describes what to look for. Your friendly A&P may cut it open for you or loan you the tool, but the tool is not expensive. I used to carefully cut them open with a hacksaw which, if you are slow and careful, can be done without contaminating the filter media.

I believe this is about as cheap as you will find one, but if you have a large wheel type pipe cutter it will work.

https://www.chiefaircraft.com/awf-afc470.html

I used to cut them with a die grinder but the proper tool is better, Google oil filter inspection it will tell you better than I ca I’m sure

[Guest]

A budget oil filter cutter for those in need.

https://flyboyaccessories.com/product/toms-oil-filter-cutter

Available at Spruce as well.

 

[MikeOH]

Removing the oil filter is the tricky part of an oil change as the filter is horizontally mounted at the top of the engine...it will make an awesome mess you will spend considerable time cleaning up if you are not careful.

The following will, no doubt, spawn a debate on the best way to do this, but here is my method (I just changed oil & filter last weekend and did not spill a single drop!):

1) Remove ALL of the safety wire from the filter; don't leave any by just cutting it loose and leaving it on the filter tang.

2) Break the filter loose and unscrew until it's close to separating from the mounting flange on the engine.

3) Place a reasonably oversized zip-lock plastic bag over the filter and the mounting flange.  Then with one hand take the slack out of the open end of the bag pulling its lower edge up tight around the back side of the mounting flange.

4) While holding tension on the open end of the bag with one hand so it stays pulled tight on the bottom of the flange, finish unscrewing the filter by gripping it from the outside of the bag with your other hand.

5) After the filter is in the bag, and the oil has drained from the flange, slide the open end of the bag off the flange and lift the bag with the filter straight up.

6) Have a shop rag ready to place under the flange as oil will drip out until you install the new filter.

[jaylw314]

I'm a cheap enough bastard that I haven't bought a filter cutter.  I just fly up to my IA's shop and ask if I can use his.  He says he's okay with me doing that because I drain the filter for at least a full day so I don't make a mess with his cutting tool, and it's nice to get a second set of (better) eyeballs on anything in the filter.

[cliffy]

Drain it over night and remove the filter cold That way the oil inside is thicker and won't 

go everywhere. I just push a rag or two up, under the filter  (use a screwdriver) all the way to the rear case and 

I only get a little drip or so on the rags  No muss No fuss

Edited December 6, 2022 by cliffy
spell

[Skates97]

16 minutes ago, cliffy said:

Drain it over night and remove the filter cold That wat the oil inside is thicker and won't 

go everywhere. I just push a rag or two up, under the filter  (use a screwdriver) all the way to the rear case and 

I only get a little drip or so on the rags  No muss No fuss

This method works very well, and is simple. You don't even have to drain overnight, although you do get less mess that way. Spin it off fast and let it fall into your hand facing up. I keep meaning to do a video of it, maybe I'll remember this weekend when I change the oil.

[EricJ]

+1 to just let the filter drain over night or however long.   Makes it much easier to deal with.

Filter cutters aren't expensive.   I've been using one like this for a long time and it works fine.   It's easiest if you have a bench vise to stabilize the filter and then just chop the end off.

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Cutting-Replace-Filters-Diameter/dp/B09PYBTPRQ

 

[Guest]

I'm not sure that my customers would want to stay over night while their filter drains.

[cliffy]

For those of us with time on our hands!!  :-)  What part of "retired" don't you understand? :-)

I've also heard of punching a hole in the top of the filter and blowing air in to drain it. 

Never done it. 

[Utah20Gflyer]

I'm surprised no one brought up the PVC pipe cut in half. With a little finesse you can get it up under the edge of the filter so when you remove it the oil drops into the chanel and drains out the side of the engine into a bucket.   That's what I do.  Got the idea from a guy who put up a video on YouTube.  Works really well.   1 and 1/4 diameter I believe is the right size.  

[gwav8or]

2 minutes ago, Utah20Gflyer said:

I'm surprised no one brought up the PVC pipe cut in half. With a little finesse you can get it up under the edge of the filter so when you remove it the oil drops into the chanel and drains out the side of the engine into a bucket.   That's what I do.  Got the idea from a guy who put up a video on YouTube.  Works really well.   1 and 1/4 diameter I believe is the right size.  

I saw that and is what I'm considering.  How did you cut the PVC? 

[Utah20Gflyer]

6 minutes ago, gwav8or said:

I saw that and is what I'm considering.  How did you cut the PVC? 

I used a table saw.   I'm sure there are other ways but looking at what I had available it seemed like the appropriate choice.

If you change your oil outside like me I would Keep both halves.  I link the two pieces together so the oil has a channel all the way to the bucket.  The wind can throw the oil all over if there is a lot of space between the end of the channel and the bucket.  

[Pinecone]

https://www.amazon.com/Form-Funnel-Flexible-Draining-Tool/dp/B017MTFIYE/ref=asc_df_B017MTFIYE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094794461&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3238710840475768222&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018545&hvtargid=pla-493245967151&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62497261819&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312094794461&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3238710840475768222&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018545&hvtargid=pla-493245967151

 

[gwav8or]

2 minutes ago, Pinecone said:

https://www.amazon.com/Form-Funnel-Flexible-Draining-Tool/dp/B017MTFIYE/ref=asc_df_B017MTFIYE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094794461&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3238710840475768222&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018545&hvtargid=pla-493245967151&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62497261819&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312094794461&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3238710840475768222&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018545&hvtargid=pla-493245967151

 

I ordered two of these a couple days ago.  :-)

[A64Pilot]

1 hour ago, cliffy said:

For those of us with time on our hands!!  :-)  What part of "retired" don't you understand? :-)

I've also heard of punching a hole in the top of the filter and blowing air in to drain it. 

Never done it. 

I’ve done the punch two holes thing to moderate success, I’ve also done the plastic bag thing on other engines to great success, use a large freezer zip lock bag, freezer is thicker and stick a couple of paper towels in it, worked great on my Yanmar, made a mess on my Mooney.

I’ve bent a piece of sheet metal in a V flattening the end to fit under the filter, still made a mess.

I guess I need to try the pipe thing, how big a pipe and surely not sched 40? Shaped with a heat gun? PVC or that other stuff? ABS? 

A pic would help

[Guest]

59 minutes ago, cliffy said:

For those of us with time on our hands!!  :-)  What part of "retired" don't you understand? :-)

I've also heard of punching a hole in the top of the filter and blowing air in to drain it. 

Never done it. 

I’ve heard that retirement is OK, one day I’ll give it a try.

As for the hole punch method we do that on IO-550 engines, never tried it on a Lycoming.

[Utah20Gflyer]

38 minutes ago, A64Pilot said:

I’ve done the punch two holes thing to moderate success, I’ve also done the plastic bag thing on other engines to great success, use a large freezer zip lock bag, freezer is thicker and stick a couple of paper towels in it, worked great on my Yanmar, made a mess on my Mooney.

I’ve bent a piece of sheet metal in a V flattening the end to fit under the filter, still made a mess.

I guess I need to try the pipe thing, how big a pipe and surely not sched 40? Shaped with a heat gun? PVC or that other stuff? ABS? 

A pic would help

I used 1 1/4 grey electrical conduit which I believe is PVC.   I made sure to sand all the edges to make sure it wouldn't abrade anything.  No forming or bending was necessary for my plane.  It slides into place although it is a tight fit.  I have the 0360 which may be a factor in how well it works.  I could possibly take a pic of mine when I get home.  

[MikeOH]

I just knew everyone would have a "better method"

I will say I have tried the hole punch, the stuff rags under the filter and do it quick, and 'trough' methods...I've made a mess every time!

The bag method has worked flawlessly all but once; the first time I failed to remove the cut safety wire from the filter tang and it punched a hole in the bag while unscrewing the filter!

I have not tried the hole and air pressure method, however.

The 'stuff the rags' method may work for some, but you end up with oily rags.  I'm also skeptical of 'just a few drops' as the point the oil starts to drain is when the filter first comes away from the flange...there're a lot of turns left before the filter comes off!

[Guest]

The trough method works fine for almost every engine with the filter between the magnetos.  The D suffix engines don’t work quite as well, but can still be done without spilling.