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Posted
19 hours ago, rbp said:

F=1/2 * MV^2
2500# airframe @80 = 1250*6400 = 8,000,000
2500# airfreame @75 = 1250*5626 = 7,032,500

regardless of the units, doing 75 instead of 80 is ~17% less energy

I think the velocity of interest is the vertical velocity, hdot, or sink-rate - which ever you prefer to call it.

Posted
3 hours ago, Pinecone said:

How much weight did the CLD plus insulation add?

I’m not exactly sure. I didn’t pay much attention at the time because I was removing old equipment, antennas & wire, adding sound damping then weighing. Gained some useful when done. Now sits around 1,025 useful, need to check log for exact 

Posted
5 hours ago, Fly Boomer said:

I was following along with removing the OE insulation, and I was okay with the 1/2" stick on foam, but you lost me with the 20% flat area CLD.

   Constrained Layer Damper (CLD) I used is 100% butyl sticky stuff on soft aluminum sheet placed on approx center  20% of the flat (drumming) surfaces within the cabin area. Over that went the foam covering 95% avoiding contact with tube frame work and fasteners requiring inspection or removal.  Duct taping air gaps (sound pathways). 
  This made a huge improvement over before. What looked like original attempt of damping was some type of Bondo like stuff smeared on the center of each panel but since has fallen off. Now tapping on the fuselage around the cabin has a dead return with no drumming. Over explaining a simple question 

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, Kelpro999 said:

 Congratulations on your first Mooney. Now you’re going to learn about screws and lots of them. My bird is two years older but I think it’s essentially the same with factory retract gear. My step is raised using a hand crank like a window regulator. Anyway, on top of the thousand other things to consider is addressing cabin noise levels while the interior is out. The best low budget improvement I’ve done is remove all the OE insulation, add 20% flat area CLD sheet then 1/2” stick on foam from Spruce. Went from an indoor concert to a library, then canceling headsets helped with other frequencies. Good luck with with this  project. You’ve found the right resource here at Mooneyspace. 

We already have some new thin foam which will go behind new orcotek insulation. Used it before and its very quiet. Never thought about using CLD sheets. Good idea.

 

10 hours ago, Jsno said:

There are posts on mooney space on removing the nose truss and compressing it in a hydraulic presss to replace the pucks.  Also check for blue stains on the interior wing root and front and rear spar.  Now is the time to seal any leaks.

No stains. Plane has the bladders instead of wet wing luckily and they seem to be doing their job. I'm sure I'll be digging deep soon on removing the discs when I get to jacking it up.

 

9 hours ago, M20F-1968 said:

Your wiring is 48 years old.  Take it all out and replace it with new Milspec wiring.  Old insulation is brittle and unreliable.  Now that you have the airplane opened up with the panel out, you can and should do this.  It will also add to your resale.  Design a panel so that new equipment can be easily added and use a standard configuration.

John Breda

 

Already done. The only original wiring is tied to units I already plan on removing. Anything new I can get brand new wiring from work luckily

 

Thanks all!

Edited by AnAngryGoose

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