Butch

Does anyone know what plywood lumber and thickness?

If I remember correctly the top gasket diameter and width is slightly larger than the bottom. If you still have problems mic out the top "lip" diameter and add the glass thickness plus some to determine the diameter and width of the gasket you need. Sometimes with 2 of the smaller gaskets (bottom), you could get it to seal. If you use the old bottom gaskets as a pattern you haven't solved the problem. I can't remember the numbers, but it may have been a 2 1/4 top and 2 3/16 bottom.

I'm in the process of converting to the Lords, referencing SB 20-161. I have bought some salvage parts but when comparing pix on Ebay, etc, I see some shock links that have notches on the flat of the bottom link and others do not. My originals have them and friends that have converted have both. Can anyone tell me if the "notched" links are need for clearance or something else? I've seen pix of the same P/N with and without. The nose gear link is the part in question, the SB lists it as 540015-1. M20 S/N 1154

Some posts say you can do this just using the A/C weight on the gear. If not, I found this old SL. Haven't tried it yet but if it works it would be an easy solution. SL20-51.pdf

Thanks Joe, I think this is what I need.

I am attempting to rig the stabilizer and elevator on my 1957 M20. The original SM instructions are for the wood empennage, and mine has the metal conversion kit installed. I am not sure if that changed the the specs and am wondering if anyone has the SB M20-170-1, ( metal empennage kit), to check if there are any differences. The TCDS for my model matches the original SM, elevator +24, -10.5, stabilizer -3.5 + 1.5. Thanks, Butch

Working on an M20K with the old style (pnuematic) speedbrakes. The actuator cable outer covering needs replacing. The PF people said you may be able to cut the inner cable and slide the new sheathing over it without pulling the seat, etc. Has anyone done this and could you please pass along any tips?