cliffy Posted August 3, 2014 Report Posted August 3, 2014 I made a set of HF jack stands similar those as shown. Used a large drill to machine the depression in the top of the ram (V shaped, 1/4 inch deep). I use 1/4 by 20 hardened Allen head screws and 4 flat washers each to jack pads. It's a solid as a rock with the tali stand weight (700 lbs). As a C model and having a good and not injured tail ring, I think the old way is OK FOR ME. I wouldn't do it this way with the weight of a big 6 cylinder up front. I will probably make a set of saw horses as mentioned as I like that idea as a secondary backup. The top will be curved to match the bottom of the wing for 6 inches either side of the spar (with carpet padding) and high enough to slide in from the tip and contact about 1 foot outside the jack pad. Quote
isaacpr7 Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 I use an engine hoist to carry the weight but still use a tail stand for stability. Works well. Jim Jim, I am thinking about using your method during this annual. In what order do you lift the aircraft? I was thinking about placing tension with the engine hoist, then lifting the aircraft with the jacks, and then placing the tail weight/stand to add stability. Does that sound about right? Quote
MB65E Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 On an E model, I jack the wings first. There is enough weight on the nose that it stays down. Then raise the nose with the hoist. Finally, after the nose is just raised off the ground, place a small 2 rung step ladder under the tail tiedown. Use strips of plywood to make up the distance. Then lift the nose a bit more to load the fuselage slightly. This is really stable, and allows you to get in and out of the aircraft. Go slow with everything. -Matt Quote
isaacpr7 Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 You may recall a post I made a few months ago where a tire went down on the taxiway at RBD. I was lucky that Don Muncy was at the airport and lent me his wing jack for a few days to fix my problem. Don expressed some interest in getting a second wing jack and I wanted one for the hangar just in case there's a next time. We took advantage of the Harbor Freight holiday sale and picked up three 3 ton hydraulic rams. Don had the square tubing (and the welding ability), and he found the 3 inch iron pipe for the collar round the body of the jack. Add in some 3/4 inch conduit and appropriate bolts and we have the wing jacks in the attached photos. We a few more details to work through we'll have the capability to do a gear swing in our own hangars. Many thanks to Don for all the time he invested in this project. I helped, but credit goes to Don for the design and execution. My schedule made getting together to work on the project challenging at times. I'm lucky to have an understanding partner in the project. Smccray, What did you use to flatten the ends of the conduit so nicely? Also, did you have to weld the nut that the bolt is going through to the conduit? Quote
Bob_Belville Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 Tried and true. Built for about $50. (I believe you're misreading that document based on a Lycoming document which was about not using a support on the prop. The engine hoist was preferred over the prop stand. Taking that to prohibit a tail stand is reading between the lines.) Quote
DonMuncy Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 Isaacpr7, I just put the end of the conduit in a vise and squeezed it flat before drilling the holes. It has been a while, but I am virtually certain I drilled and tapped the collar for the top bolts. Those bolts are run through the collar and snugged against the jack housing. Then the outer nut is jammed with the conduit between. Pretty stable and solid. 1 Quote
DaV8or Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 This is how they jack planes at LASAR- Attach the engine hoist with strap to the engine mount. Place wing jacks under the jack points and either have two people jack simultaneously, or one person jacks an inch at a time going back and forth until the mains are off the ground. Jack the engine hoist until the nose tire is off the ground. Adjust and attach a tail stand to the rear tie down loop. Continue jacking the engine hoist until the plane is solidly supported at all four points. Sadly, I did not take any pictures of the home made tail stands they have there. Basically, they look like a bigger version of an automotive jack stand, but the center column is threaded and screws up and down, so it's infinitely adjustable. On the top, it has a U shaped saddle with holes in it and a clevis pin is inserted through the saddle and the tie down ring. Here are the photos I do have- 2 Quote
Andy95W Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 Dave - great pictures, especially the last one. Thanks. Quote
DaV8or Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 Dave - great pictures, especially the last one. Thanks. I can't believe I didn't take a picture of the tail stand! That's the one thing I don't have out of this set up and want to make one. Duh... Quote
RobertGary1 Posted November 24, 2014 Report Posted November 24, 2014 I can't believe I didn't take a picture of the tail stand! That's the one thing I don't have out of this set up and want to make one. Duh... Do you mean tail stand or tail tie down? You shouldn't need a tail stand unless you remove the engine. I generally just use a chain to tie the tail down. As you raise the wings the pressure on the tail chain will raise the nose. Just to be extra careful I keep the prop horizontal while swinging gear. -Robert Quote
DaV8or Posted November 24, 2014 Report Posted November 24, 2014 Do you mean tail stand or tail tie down? You shouldn't need a tail stand unless you remove the engine. I generally just use a chain to tie the tail down. As you raise the wings the pressure on the tail chain will raise the nose. Just to be extra careful I keep the prop horizontal while swinging gear. -Robert I want to use the Mooney approved, LASAR method of lifting from the engine mount, so I need a tail stand for added stability. Quote
RobertGary1 Posted November 24, 2014 Report Posted November 24, 2014 If I understand correctly that sounds scary. Every pound of pressure you put on the tail stand is a pound taken off the Mooney jack points. If you lifted enough you could probably left the plane off the jack points. What is the benefit of this arrangement vs just ditching the tail stand? -Robert Quote
RobertGary1 Posted November 24, 2014 Report Posted November 24, 2014 You really aren't putting any weight on the tail stand. Just enough so that it makes contact with the tie down ring or hook. That way when you climb up on the wing and in the cockpit to swing the gear the tail doesn't bob around. You are betting a lot with your current method that your tail tie down ring will hold. Perhaps it will. Most have in the past. Later models like my 201 have two bolts that support a tail tie down hook. Earlier models had a single tail tie down ring with only one support. I wonder why Mooney made the change? Jim Possibly but that is what the service manual calls for. I guess if it falls I'll complain to Mooney. -Robert Quote
RobertGary1 Posted November 25, 2014 Report Posted November 25, 2014 Nah, they will just refer you to this Service Instruction. Save your nickel. Jim http://www.mooney.com/wp-content/themes/mooney2014/force-download.php?file=http://www.mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/m20-114.pdf Funny. The picture they use of "don't to this" is from the Service Manual. -Robert Quote
RobertGary1 Posted November 25, 2014 Report Posted November 25, 2014 Some of us, LASAR included apparently, believe that supporting the nose by the engine lifting hook is fraught with it's own risks, however. Hence their strap around the engine mount method. Jim Why not just lift the engine by the engine hoist point? -Robert Quote
RobertGary1 Posted November 25, 2014 Report Posted November 25, 2014 You can if you'd like, per this SI. But then you are betting that that a bit of cast aluminum will support the weight of the nose of your Mooney. I guess if it falls, though, we can always complain to Lycoming. Jim I'd have to do the calculations but I wonder if the load is more than a dead lift of the engine that the hoist is designed for. At least in this case you are only picking up the leverage force at the nose. The bulk of the weight is still on the jacks. -Robert Quote
jetdriven Posted November 25, 2014 Report Posted November 25, 2014 I'd have to do the calculations but I wonder if the load is more than a dead lift of the engine that the hoist is designed for. At least in this case you are only picking up the leverage force at the nose. The bulk of the weight is still on the jacks. -Robert It also stresses the heck out of the motor mounts. We still tie down the tail with a bucket of cement. 2 Quote
Bob_Belville Posted November 25, 2014 Report Posted November 25, 2014 Lots of methods will work fine as long as no one climbs in the plane or stumbles or bumps into the wing. I am skeptical of the lateral support, or lack of it, provided by the engine hoist arrangement. Without stabilizing the tail, a big guy stepping on the step to enter the plane can just about bring the tail down and the nose up, particularly is there's weight in the baggage area and cowl is removed. We have used the concrete washbucket for decades on any number of aircraft types. 1 Quote
isaacpr7 Posted November 29, 2014 Report Posted November 29, 2014 Looks Good. You might want to add some safety collars so they can't leak down and possibly damage something. I built a pair of jacks about a month ago. You can see the safety collar in the picture below. I got them from Mcmaster Carr for about $10 each. I had to machine the ID out to fit the Jack Shaft. I can look up the PN if you are interested. Leveling bolts are nice also if your is floor is as unlevel as my floor is. Mike, How long did you cut the legs for your four legged base and how long did you cut the support ones? Quote
sleepingsquirrel Posted November 30, 2014 Report Posted November 30, 2014 Thank God this isn't a Cardinal RG forum! Quote
RobertGary1 Posted December 3, 2014 Report Posted December 3, 2014 Lots of methods will work fine as long as no one climbs in the plane or stumbles or bumps into the wing. I am skeptical of the lateral support, or lack of it, provided by the engine hoist arrangement. Without stabilizing the tail, a big guy stepping on the step to enter the plane can just about bring the tail down and the nose up, particularly is there's weight in the baggage area and cowl is removed. We have used the concrete washbucket for decades on any number of aircraft types. That's pretty limiting then. You need to climb inside and run the manual gear extension during annual. -Robert Quote
Bob_Belville Posted December 3, 2014 Report Posted December 3, 2014 That's pretty limiting then. You need to climb inside and run the manual gear extension during annual. -Robert Sure do. And you might even need to get the A&P in there as well to show her something. And since I take out the front seats for the annual I'm sitting on the rear seat, aft of the jack points, swinging the gear. Quote
DaV8or Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 I am skeptical of the lateral support, or lack of it, provided by the engine hoist arrangement. Without stabilizing the tail, a big guy stepping on the step to enter the plane can just about bring the tail down and the nose up, particularly is there's weight in the baggage area and cowl is removed. Hence the tail stand. I unfortunately didn't take a picture of it. There is an adjustable tail stand (similar to an automotive jack stand) placed at the tail tie down and then a small amount of weight is put on the stand by slightly jacking the engine hoist. This way, the airplane is supported at four points, not just three. You can get in and out of the plane all you like. It works well. 1 Quote
isaacpr7 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Posted December 13, 2014 So I took a look at the original post and Mike's design and made a hybrid out of the two. All I need is a little cleanup and a little paint and they will look like they came from the store. All for 70 bucks a piece. Quote
carusoam Posted December 13, 2014 Report Posted December 13, 2014 Any effect on the cylinder due to welding? What is on the other side of the heated surface? Just wondering, I have no welding experience or skill beyond simple spot welds in an orthodontist office. Best regards, -a- Quote
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