Spark Plug Torque Value

[FlyWalt]

Hi guys,

ive dug through the MX manual a bit and can’t seem to find this number. What would it be for the TSIO-360LB

Thank you in advance,

W

[Warren]

300-360 in-lbs

[A64Pilot]

I know you didn’t ask, but don’t forget the anti-seize, there is a special type just for plugs of course.

[Hank]

I find this works easier than the copper-based stuff in 1 lb. cans, which always comes out in a huge blob in the brush . . . This is easy to control and not have too much.

[StevenL757]

50 minutes ago, A64Pilot said:

I know you didn’t ask, but don’t forget the anti-seize, there is a special type just for plugs of course.

And use a fresh gasket every time.

[EricJ]

31 minutes ago, StevenL757 said:

And use a fresh gasket every time.

Or re-anneal them with a torch. 
You can do a bunch at the same time on a piece of safety wire.

 

 

Edited March 24, 2021 by EricJ

[PT20J]

Continental 30 ft-lb

Lycoming 35 ft-lb

SI 1042AH Approved Spark Plugs.pdf

Spark-Plug-Maintenance-Manual-Rev.-B.pdf

 

[Yetti]

14 hours ago, EricJ said:

Or re-anneal them with a torch. 
You can do a bunch at the same time on a piece of safety wire.

 

 

Without breaking out the blacksmith books.   I think Aneal is the process to remove work hardening.   So not really re anealing.  Just aneal them.    I found this interesting on a google search.  

The mark will burn off near the annealing temperature of copper and silver, then you know to stop heating and quench it.

1. Place your work-hardened metal on a safe soldering board or charcoal block.
2. Take a permanent marker and use it to draw a line on your metal sheet.
3. Take your torch and set it on the largest flame that you can.
4. Heat the entire piece, otherwise the parts unheated will remain work hardened.
5. Turn off the torch as soon as the marker line disappears.
6. Immediately quench it in water.

[FlyWalt]

Well I finally found it. Tucked away in Appendix B it says 25 - 30 lbs. Once again, you guys show me what an awesome forum this is. Thank you for all the support. This is my first time ever doing DYI maintenance on my aircraft. With some help from an EAA friend of course.

[EricJ]

3 hours ago, Yetti said:

Without breaking out the blacksmith books.   I think Aneal is the process to remove work hardening.   So not really re anealing.  Just aneal them.    I found this interesting on a google search. 

The mark will burn off near the annealing temperature of copper and silver, then you know to stop heating and quench it.

1. Place your work-hardened metal on a safe soldering board or charcoal block.
2. Take a permanent marker and use it to draw a line on your metal sheet.
3. Take your torch and set it on the largest flame that you can.
4. Heat the entire piece, otherwise the parts unheated will remain work hardened.
5. Turn off the torch as soon as the marker line disappears.
6. Immediately quench it in water.

Yeah, the marker trick is pretty common for some things, but in this case I think you just get them glowing a bit red, which isn't hard to do, and then quench them.   I string a few on a loop of safety wire.   In A&P school they made us practice swapping out the gaskets whenever we had a plug out, so there were a ton of "used" gaskets laying around.   They didn't care if I just grabbed the old ones, so I have a pretty good supply now. 

[carusoam]

Fun practical metallurgy...

Where else can you get value from changing the phase of a piece of metal to suit your needs...?

Best regards,

-a-

[Hank]

6 hours ago, carusoam said:

Fun practical metallurgy...

Where else can you get value from changing the phase of a piece of metal to suit your needs...?

Best regards,

-a-

I harden a lot of steel for work, so I'm a big fan of the martensitic phase change in steel.  

[Will.iam]

Do you do this to recycle and conserve resources? As I don’t see the  time or cost savings advantage of this. 

[carusoam]

11 hours ago, Will.iam said:

Do you do this to recycle and conserve resources? As I don’t see the  time or cost savings advantage of this. 

Back in the day...

When things were not always made in China....

Proper re-use of these things became a long standing tradition...

Today... anything being re-used goes through a quality check, in this case a phase change, before being re-used...

re-use of low cost items... probably better to toss it first... into a proper recycle bin... of course...  

 

Re-use of some hardware has become forbidden... and some of those are extra expensive too...

V-clamps on turbo exhaust pipes, and star washers on magneto hold downs... torque properly, no re-use...

As an owner, you start buying lots of extra fasteners... throw away any screw that has a drive slip... or is Rusty ... or is too hard to get cleaned....

The direction slowly changes over the decades...

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

[A64Pilot]

On 3/25/2021 at 2:45 PM, Will.iam said:

Do you do this to recycle and conserve resources? As I don’t see the  time or cost savings advantage of this. 

Sometimes, especially if you do your own maintenance on other things like say for example something Diesel, each side to line will have one washer on either side of the bolt holding the line on, and knowing how to anneal them can be of use.

Banjo bolts I think they are called, and you run into them pretty often for fluid lines. Often they are metric and not all that easy to get the washers for depending on where you are.

Edited March 26, 2021 by A64Pilot