O360 Re-manufactured Cylinder Recommendation

[0TreeLemur]

The past few oil changes showed increasing amounts of aluminum in the filter.  Borescope inspection revealed one piston pin plug scraping in #1 cylinder.  The shop pulled the cylinder and found the culprit.  The nitride coating is coming off the cylinder wall in an area, acting like a cheese grater eating up that one piston pin plug.   We need to order a re-manufactured cylinder.  Any vendor recommendations?    The photo shows the problem area.  Thanks.

-Fred

[Guest]

At around $1200 for a new one, I’m not sure why you’d want an overhaul?

Clarence

[Rwsavory]

If you wanted to save a few bucks over a new one you could give Jewell in Kennett, MO a call.  I have been running an overhauled cylinder of theirs for several years.

[0TreeLemur]

2 hours ago, M20Doc said:

At around $1200 for a new one, I’m not sure why you’d want an overhaul?

Clarence

Overhauled, re-manufactured, same thing in my mind.  Not new.

[0TreeLemur]

14 hours ago, M20Doc said:

At around $1200 for a new one, I’m not sure why you’d want an overhaul?

Clarence

Hi Clarence.  This engine is at 1650 h SMOH.  Putting a new cyl. on is overkill.  There are probably serviceable cylinders out there that will easily get us to overhaul makes sense, doesn't it?  That's a bit of info I should have included in my original post.

-Fred

[0TreeLemur]

My shop ordered a new cylinder.  This raises the question of break-in.   With a new cylinder installation, I assume there is a break-in procedure?  What will that consist of?  Can anyone point me to a good description?  Thanks.

-Fred

[Rwsavory]

5 minutes ago, 0TreeLemur said:

My shop ordered a new cylinder.  This raises the question of break-in.   With a new cylinder installation, I assume there is a break-in procedure?  What will that consist of?  Can anyone point me to a good description?  Thanks.

-Fred

https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2019/january/pilot/savvy-maintenance-breaking-good

"Here’s what I recommend: Break in the engine by running it as close to maximum continuous power as possible without allowing any CHT to exceed 420 degrees Fahrenheit for Continental cylinders or 440 degrees F for Lycoming cylinders. Run it this hard for an hour or two, until you see the CHT come down noticeably, indicating that the break-in is mostly complete.

It’s very important to run the engine hard right from the outset. Keep ground running to a minimum, avoid a protracted preflight runup, and don’t cycle the propeller more than once (and as shallowly as possible). The reason for all this is that running a freshly honed cylinder at low power for any significant length of time can cause a condition known as glazing, in which a tough residue of carbonized oil builds up on the cylinder walls and stops the break-in process dead in its tracks. Once the cylinder has become glazed, it’s no longer oil-wettable, and the only solution may be to remove and re-hone the cylinder and start the break-in process all over again."

[Ragsf15e]

Every time I’ve broken in a new or overhauled cylinder it’s been done following the standard lycoming break in instructions.  Mineral oil, 75%+ power for an hour, then 65-75% for some time.  Rich to keep the temps acceptable.  I take the document with me for reference as I zip all around the state burning 100ll like a C-210.

[0TreeLemur]

Now I'm confused, and I see why.  As Mike Busch wrote:

"If you Google “aircraft cylinder break-in” you’ll be amazed at how much has been written on this subject. Each engine manufacturer has a service bulletin to provide guidance on how to do this (e.g., Continental M89-7R1, Lycoming SI 1427B), as do manufacturers of PMA cylinders (ECi, Superior). Many well-known engine overhaul shops provide their own break-in instructions (RAM, Penn Yan, Victor), and various type clubs have also weighed in on the subject. Even Shell Oil has written its own break-in recommendations. "

[Raptor05121]

12 minutes ago, 0TreeLemur said:

Now I'm confused, and I see why.  As Mike Busch wrote:

"If you Google “aircraft cylinder break-in” you’ll be amazed at how much has been written on this subject. Each engine manufacturer has a service bulletin to provide guidance on how to do this (e.g., Continental M89-7R1, Lycoming SI 1427B), as do manufacturers of PMA cylinders (ECi, Superior). Many well-known engine overhaul shops provide their own break-in instructions (RAM, Penn Yan, Victor), and various type clubs have also weighed in on the subject. Even Shell Oil has written its own break-in recommendations. "

The basic gist is you want to run the engine hard and hot to help scrape down those new hone marks. Its not a science. Push all the knobs forward and dont touch them as you fly around for 2 hours (or however long your tanks last at 16gph+). Lycoming does call for varying RPM after the first two hours. IIRC 2500 then 2300 then 2700? They have a service procedure for it. Thats what I followed.