Upgrade seats in a C?

[Bob E]

Almost forgot the most important part:  the detailed instructions!  These are from me, not Airtex.

  A good project to undertake while the plane's in annual.

How to do the front seat headrests: 

Use ½” steel tubing (rather than 3/8” that Airtex refers to, if you have the Airtex specs).  Cut two 36” tubes in half, and attach the aluminum plates to them per the photos.  (BTW for drilling the holes in the round stainless steel tubing, you have to use a drill press; it helps to flatten the ends somewhat – flatten the ends with the rough edges where the tubes were cut in half – with a heavy mallet and to use a sharp nail or screw to make a starter indentation.)Airtex has instructions on how to do the foam and the upholstery covering.

Drill 5/8” holes in the seat tops exactly 6” apart and insert rubber grommets with an inner diameter of ½” (bought at Lowe’s).  That size grommet fits a 5/8” hole perfectly.  Slide the assembled headrest tubing through the grommets and mark the spots where the tubing makes contact with the center crosspiece.   Should be exactly 6” apart as well. 

Drill 5/8” holes there too.  You have to drill just a bit laterally but it doesn’t affect the fit.   It helps to start by tapping a nail in the exact center of the hole to guide the bit; start out with small bits/small holes and then switch to progressively larger bits.

The result is that the headrests are nicely adjustable with just the right amount of friction.  See photos.   You can’t tell from the photos but the tubes are exactly parallel.  If you want, put a setscrew or cotter pin at the bottom to prevent lifting the headrest out of the hole.  (I didn't bother; we haven't ever raised the headrests since I installed them.)

To do the back seat headrests:

Use two 36” x ½” stainless steel tubes, cut in half, and rubber grommets with an inner diameter of ½”, just like for the front seat.   Drill holes in the tubes and matching holes in the aluminum plate exactly 6” apart.

At the top of the back seat frame, measure and mark the positions for the four holes where the headrest tubes will go.   Two sets of 5/8” holes precisely 6” apart.  It helps to mark 6” lines down the back of the frame for later.   Drill the holes, insert the grommets, and glue the foam piece on.  Use one of the tubes to gently punch holes in the foam. 

Assemble the headrest tubes and plates but don’t put the foam or vinyl covers on them yet.

To drill the lower set of holes, a long drill bit is required.  Extra-long 5/8” metal bits are hard to find and are expensive, but a 5/8” wood-borer bit works just fine on aluminum.  It tears up the bit a little but it cuts perfect, clean holes.  (I planned on using a small extra-long metal bit to drill the starter hole but didn’t need it.)

To mark where to drill the lower holes, insert the headset tubes through the grommets in the top holes and push down until the tubes make contact with the lower cross-brace.  Then tap the tops of each of the tubes sharply with a hammer; this will clearly mark the places on the cross-brace where the lower holes will be drilled.

Pull the headrest assemblies back out and remove the top grommets.  While someone holds a light, put the wood-borer bit down through the top holes, carefully position the center tap, and drill each bottom hole.  The cutouts are easy to retrieve from underneath.

Put the grommets back in the top holes and have someone with small hands insert the grommets in the lower holes.

Put the large upholstery piece on the frame.  Locate the top grommet holes and use a Philips screwdriver to punch matching holes in the vinyl.  Trim a little bit of vinyl so the tubes can pass through freely.

Assemble the headrests.

Put nylon washers (same as used for the front seat headrests) onto the tubes and insert the finished headrest assemblies through the upper and lower grommets.   Glue the washers to the vinyl.

That's about it.  Re-assemble everything and enjoy a much more modern look!

 

 

[David Lloyd]

Follow those directions and you will still wonder how to get the big block of foam into the headrest cover.  For that:  Cut a slot in the foam block for the support, slather on the upholstery glue on the support and inside of the foam block.  Foam block over the support.  Put a plastic trash bag over the foam and use a shop vac to remove the air.  The foam will suck down to less than half size.  Put the headrest cover in place, then turn off the shop vac and tear out the trash bag.  It works a lot better than it sounds.

[Jakes Simmons]

Appreciate the upload! That is going to help...

[Oscar Avalle]

On 11/7/2020 at 10:03 AM, Bob E said:

While you're at it, you might want to replace the wooden seat rollers (which I used to have to replace at every annual) with nylon rollers.

What size are the rollers?

[Bob E]

14 hours ago, Oscar Avalle said:

What size are the rollers?

It's not shown on the package, but I just measured them:  inner diameter 10.5mm, outer diameter 22mm, and thickness 15mm. 

I got them from Grainger Industrial Supply, and they are described as "Round Spacer, Nylon, M10, 15mm," item number 3ZMN2.   Photos attached.

Edited November 14, 2020 by Bob E
Corrected the numbers, which I misread the first time

[DJE22]

On 6/27/2020 at 3:45 PM, Hector said:

Airtex leather seats in my 67C.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

@Hectorare those your original seats recovered?

[Nstarbf]

On 11/7/2020 at 12:25 PM, cliffy said:

Nstarbf-  are you sure ALL 4 seat "feet" (rollers) are down and hooked correctly to the rails?  It is possible to get three in place and the fourth riding high and not seated in place. The seat will move without weight but jams with weight on it.

I'll check,  your are correct when there's no weight they work fine and when i'm carrying a buddy of mine who's like 6'2" 230 they work as well.  it seems to do it the most when the wife is riding along or someone who's lighter weight.

[carusoam]

Often the old roller material will fail... they were made of machined thermoset polymers... similar to old counter tops...

What is left is the bolt that was used as an axle...

So... look to see what you have there... if there are wheels... that is good...

If you have shiny axles running on the rails... they don’t turn and have a lot of friction... time to get new wheels...

Getting new wheels should be pretty easy... relatively easy... hmmmm, not too tough.... errr... well.....

My M20C shed the wheels off the seats... over time... moving the seats was done before getting in the plane...

Best regards,

-a-

 

[cliffy]

Wheels are available  I put some on mine this last summer

If you want to be perfectly technical they have to have the correct P/N  and PMA just like every other part that goes on a certified airplane. 

[Hank]

3 hours ago, cliffy said:

Wheels are available  I put some on mine this last summer

If you want to be perfectly technical they have to have the correct P/N  and PMA just like every other part that goes on a certified airplane. 

Unless you go Owner Produced and have your A&P sign it off in the logbook.

[jetdriven]

Lasar has Delrin seat rollers.  Work good last long time 

[carusoam]

You can see why Delrin makes a nice choice...   of course, this statement comes directly from DuPont Marketing... 

Best regards,

-a-

 

Delrin^® acetal homopolymer (Polyoxymethylene POM) is the ideal material in parts designed to replace metal. It combines low-friction and high-wear resistance with the high strength and stiffness such applications require. It provides a wide operating temperature range (-40 ^°C to 120 ^°C) and good colorability.

[CGaston]

On 11/7/2020 at 10:58 AM, Bob E said:

I added headrests to my '65 C when I re-did the seats with Airtex upholstery a few years ago.  Airtex has some instructions and also supplies the (legal) foam; I supplemented them with some help and advice from local people.  I have detailed instructions and a lot more step-by-step photos if you're interested.

 

I am interested 

[M20F-1968]

On 6/25/2020 at 8:29 PM, jakearey said:

Hey gang! 
 

I am working with Bruce to get a spacial interior set up in the plane.  Bruce however doesn’t really do seats so I am looking to recover my seats. While I’m in this process I’m interested in finding an upgraded pair of front seats. 

My plane is a 62C. I’m wondering if anyone knows what seats will fit in the 62C? Will any of the J seats fit? I’m looking for something with more support and ideally more adjustability. If I can figure out what fits I can search the web and salvage yards for a newer set of seats to recover and refresh. 

Thoughts? 
 

Thanks! 
JA 

Any of the seats will fit.  I have all 4 seats from a 1998 Ovation.  

At least in mine, the holes in the rails were 0.050" less deep than in the newer Ovation rails.  Nothing a well controlled drill and a 0.250" drill bit couldn't remedy.

John Breda

[carusoam]

Welcome aboard CG!

Bob has a message, so he will be back this way... in time...

Best regards,

-a-

[Bob E]

On 12/23/2020 at 1:29 PM, CGaston said:

I am interested 

See the downloads section of Mooneyspace.