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Posted

While finishing up on my 65 E” the H&E Gascolator bowl & screen was removed and inspected, everything inside was clean as a whistle and no signs of corrosion or any other type of damage. I ordered 3 new gaskets (1/16”) from Brown Aircraft and my AI had 1 new stat-o-seal for the bolt. After re-assembly the Gascolator pours fuel from the bowl to body mating surface, I’m familiar with SB M20-200 and the torque values. I once again removed the bowl to find the new gasket had squeezed out into the bowl, once again there is no evidence that the bowl has ever been cocked during installation and no signs of any type of damage. I spoke with Brown’s about the possibility of the wrong gasket material being used, no luck there. Searching the net I ran across an old “The Mooney Flyer” dated June 2014 that says “It may take more than one try to correctly install the top seal”, so I then gave LASAR a call and spoke to them about any tips or tricks they might know. I have had it off multiple times and so has my IA, so I’m looking for any advice. I’m half temped to index it in my lathe a cut an O-ring groove in it that can’t slip. The service and Parts Manuals show no break-down of the Valve/Gascolator assembly so if anyone has that info I’d like that as well.

Posted

A few things come to mind...

1) there is a break down and old style parts drawing in the parts catalog... It is in the fuel system section.

2) LASAR is pretty good with these parts.

3) The system is age tested and works pretty good. (Since the glass bowl version got replaced) 

4) I didn't read the Maint. Manual to see what the procedure says.  Does it say to lubricate the seal first.  What kind of torque does it get?

I Would be more inclined to make sure I had all the correct parts properly installed than to redesign the system.  My 65C had been through 50+ annuals and the fuel strainer had been disassembled and reassemble that many times.

See if that helps...

Best regards,

-a-

Posted

The parts manual I have is revised June 1973...

Far from modern. But, seems to represent what was in the plane.

This was at the time when the MM and Parts Manuals were separate.

Since the parts you have seem to be correct, do you have the correct procedure to get it all to stay together..?

the only problem I had with the gascolator was the bolt running up through it had a spot of corrosion that ate halfway through the bolt in one spot.

my cascolator was the collector of rust bits and water.  The bits came from the steal parts that the fuel cap mounted in. The water came from being outside.

If my gascolator failed to seal, the rust bits were piling up in the drain plug's seal...

Best regards,

-a-

Posted

Hi, lasar has a nice kit that is $30.

 

it has the sealing washer for the thru bolt. Stat-o-seal. 

 

Im not sure if the exact manufacturing differences they used in 65, but mine is probably the same. 

If you lube the gasket, it will pooch out... 

Put it in dry.

-Matt

 

Posted

I've never had trouble with leaks using the Lasar kit and the SB torque values.  Just be sure the gasket goes on completely dry.

Clarence

Posted

First attempt was with a fuel resistant lubricant (Dow Corning product I beleive) on the gasket. After seeing it was pushing the gasket out I removed the lubricant from the bowl, body and gasket,but the results were the same, 3rd attempt was with another new gasket a re-cleaning bowl & body. This went on several more tries until the stat-o-seal gave up the ghost. Picked up 3 new stat-o-seals and a new bolt ( bolt was because they had it ) this morning. The order of assembly is the reverse of the way the parts came off: (not sure if it's correct or not, but it seems correct to me)

(a) install the screen into the body

(b) install the gasket into the body

(c) install the bowl on to the body

(d) install stat-o-seal on to bolt

(e) install bolt thru center of bowl and torque to 15 in lbs

i did leave out the part of the drain plunger and "B" nut and I'm also still using a lubricant on the stat-o-seal. Does this sequence seem correct. Would still like to see a parts break down or something from the service manual, I will start round two first thing Monday morning, hopefully that little PITA gasket won't whoop up on me too bad

Posted

Round 2 was a victory, wiped down the mating surfaces of the valve body and bowl where the gasket seats with MEK, cleaned a new gasket with soap and water, wiped the mating surfaces along with the gasket with a dry shop towel and re-assembled with a new bolt and stat-o-seal torqued per SB M20-200. Turned the fuel back on and NO LEAK!!!! Thanks for the help guys, was still gun shy so the safety wire didn't go on till after lunch (3.5 hrs later}.

Thanks again

Posted

Could have been done Saturday afternoon when I had the other new parts, but after the whoop'n I took Friday it was time to walk away :D

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