100 Hour prop AD, A hub

[capnrjbaker]

Just bought a pretty '75 C that is coming up on the 100 hour prop inspection.  Is that a prop shop only inspection or can an I/A or A/P conduct the inspection.  Tried to find the AD and couldn't sort it out online.  Any assistance greatly appreciated.  Ron

[Bob_Belville]

15 minutes ago, capnrjbaker said:

Just bought a pretty '75 C that is coming up on the 100 hour prop inspection.  Is that a prop shop only inspection or can an I/A or A/P conduct the inspection.  Tried to find the AD and couldn't sort it out online.  Any assistance greatly appreciated.  Ron

Here's a previous thread,,,

 

[Guitarmaster]

It does not have to be a prop shop. Just someone that does NDT.

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[carusoam]

Ron,

you may want to tell people where you are at...

If you are looking for Eddy Current testing for your prop, you may have to take it to a shop that has it.

There are some other things to consider. Dye filled hubs and different props/hubs.

It is easier to give a recommendation when somebody in your area knows where you are.

Best regards,

-a-

[Cody Stallings]

The person doing the NDT has to be a Level 2 inspector. (1800hrs Eddy Current Exp)

ASNT 410 Qualifed to.

[Guitarmaster]

16 hours ago, Cody Stallings said:

The person doing the NDT has to be a Level 2 inspector. (1800hrs Eddy Current Exp)

ASNT 410 Qualifed to.

What he said ^^^^

[Yetti]

I had mine overhauled last year when we bought the plane.   Kept the hub with the AD.   The prop shop was not big on doing the red dye thing and I was not either as seals that are designed to hold grease are not really designed to hold oil.   The replacement hub was ~ 3 AMU  So I could fly it for 3000 hours in 0.1 AMU  Eddy current inspections.  So I decided to turn the AMUs into Avgas.  The blades were fine, just needed the hubs shotpeened.

[Gone]

I also kept the prop hub that needed the 100 hour inspection for six years after the AD was issued. No big deal.

I only changed it out last year for the B hub (without the AD and the 100 hour inspection) because the blades failed the overhaul (not enough blade left).  This will be my first annual without the need for the inspection.  Clarence is checking the governor setting this year because I do not believe I am getting 2700 rpm out of the whole rig. I am also getting an electronic tach to confirm things better than the waggle arm I have currently installed.

[Yetti]

These work pretty well as a second check

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__30936__Turnigy_Multi_Blade_Micro_Tachometer_US_Warehouse_.html

[Gone]

Yetti:  It does look fairly good and it is cheap too!!!  But I cannot stand looking over at my tach (which sleeve needs to be thoroughly greased every annual) and watch it bounce between 2100 and 2600 rpm while flying.  I need something that is more inherently stable in presentation.  

Looking at that needle makes feel like I am fighting turbulence to the FAF on an instrument approach in full clag.  Positively, absolutely, righteously bugs the living daylights out of me.

I have asked Clarence to put in a ELECTRONICS INTERNATIONAL R-1 RPM TACHOMETER for me.  

It is to replace the second one shown. 

[carusoam]

You know when it's time to get a new rpm cable... When the waggle arm falls off the rpm gauge...

When you take the tach out of the panel, that is the ah ha moment...

 You find there is a small oil reservoir cup to service the spinning cable?

Go EI!  Or JPI or other digital device.

Best regards,

-a-

[Marauder]

You know when it's time to get a new rpm cable... When the waggle arm falls off the rpm gauge...

When you take the tach out of the panel, that is the ah ha moment...

 You find there is a small oil reservoir cup to service the spinning cable?

Go EI!  Or JPI or other digital device.

Best regards,

-a-

What's an RPM cable?

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[mooniac15u]

1 hour ago, Marauder said:

What's an RPM cable?

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1500 RPM difference? You might want to get those adjusted.