greg51 Posted March 22, 2016 Report Posted March 22, 2016 I just took of the door panel off my 65 E model to replace and was wondering if there was supposed to be insulation behind the panel. I found none and it doesn't look like there is room for any. Also I bought some new door weather stripping and it had a small peel off sticky strip on it. That doesn't seem sufficient to adhere it to the door properly. Any advice on what to use that I could get at local hardware store? Thanks in advance Quote
Shadrach Posted March 22, 2016 Report Posted March 22, 2016 The door should have a rubber seal around the door (there is also a company that makes a seal that attaches to the doorway instead) and windlace around the doorway. adhesive Weather stripping will do little but make a mess. This is not an expensive undertaking in the whole scheme of things which gives all the more reason to do it right with the proper materials. Cheaping out at the PMA section of Home Depot will get you exactly what you paid for. You can pay a lot for a seal from the factory or choose from any number of aftermarket products. I have heard good things about products from Aircraft Door Seals. As for insulation, I believe we used adhesive .5" closed cell foam where we could. There is not a lot of room. We also had much of our plastic coved with euroleather which cozies things up a bit. Focus on making sure the cabin is well insulated and the door is well sealed and you will have a warm if not quiet airplane. 1 Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted March 22, 2016 Report Posted March 22, 2016 The proper adhesive is 3M weather-strip adhesive. It is available at most automobile paint and body supply houses. It is a high grade contact cement. Quote
greg51 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Posted March 22, 2016 I bought the rubber door seal from spruce specifically for the mooney. It came with a peel off adhesive side to it. I think I got my answer from 201MK. I am still wondering if mooney originally put no insulation in the doors at the factory or if mine was removed. The plastic panel I removed was original. 1 Quote
carusoam Posted March 22, 2016 Report Posted March 22, 2016 All original insulation materials have been removed. The material had a high tendency to retain moisture next to the steel tubes. Something like SB208 (?) comes to mind. Check the details from your PPI and logs... Best regards, -a- 1 Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted March 22, 2016 Report Posted March 22, 2016 There are a lot of good insulation materials out there. Just avoid putting in the original fiberglass. If it gets wet it stays wet for a long time. It usually gets wet from a leaking window. Most of the mechanism in the door is steel and will rust with wet insulation. I'm trying to remember if my old F had insulation in the door, I think it did. Quote
Shadrach Posted March 22, 2016 Report Posted March 22, 2016 1 hour ago, N201MKTurbo said: There are a lot of good insulation materials out there. Just avoid putting in the original fiberglass. If it gets wet it stays wet for a long time. It usually gets wet from a leaking window. Most of the mechanism in the door is steel and will rust with wet insulation. I'm trying to remember if my old F had insulation in the door, I think it did. Ours did. We needed a vacuum to remove most of it! Quote
MyNameIsNobody Posted March 22, 2016 Report Posted March 22, 2016 3 hours ago, Shadrach said: The door should have a rubber seal around the door (there is also a company that makes a seal that attaches to the doorway instead) and windlace around the doorway. adhesive Weather stripping will do little but make a mess. This is not an expensive undertaking in the whole scheme of things which gives all the more reason to do it right with the proper materials. Cheaping out at the PMA section of Home Depot will get you exactly what you paid for. You can pay a lot for a seal from the factory or choose from any number of aftermarket products. I have heard good things about products from Aircraft Door Seals. As for insulation, I believe we used adhesive .5" closed cell foam where we could. There is not a lot of room. We also had much of our plastic coved with euroleather wich cozies things up a bit. Focus on making sure the cabin is well insulated and the door is well sealed and you will have a warm if not quiet airplane. This kind of talk will get you expunged from the CB club. 2 Quote
MyNameIsNobody Posted March 22, 2016 Report Posted March 22, 2016 Everybody knows that Lowe's has the "good" stuff... Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted March 22, 2016 Report Posted March 22, 2016 10 minutes ago, MyNameIsNobody said: Everybody knows that Lowe's has the "good" stuff... The aviation isle at Autozone... 1 Quote
RLCarter Posted March 23, 2016 Report Posted March 23, 2016 My E and my buddies C both had fiberglass insulation shoved inside the door, replaced with closed cell adhesive back foam which is a pain to get in the door. The adhesive on the door seal is ok getting it to stck depends on how well you clean the aluminum surface. Do not pull or stretch the seal as you install it, especially when going around the corners and start at the bottom so there are no seams on top that water could wick thru Quote
greg51 Posted March 23, 2016 Author Report Posted March 23, 2016 Thanks everybody....This site is the best...so much knowledge Quote
Marauder Posted March 23, 2016 Report Posted March 23, 2016 Since I'm asking stupid questions today or is that there are no stupid questions, just stupid people who asks questions? I see a lot of home construction using both open and closed cell foam to insulate walls. Do you think closed cell foam can used to insulate the insides of a Mooney? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
carusoam Posted March 23, 2016 Report Posted March 23, 2016 See if this helps... 1) Material dependent. Some materials resist heat transfer better than others. (R value?) 2) cell structure dependent. Micro cells up to large bubbles. 3) Depending on the polymer density and it's specific insulative properties it will be a competition of thickness, weight vs insulation. 4) closed cell foams are more dense. 5) open cells hold moisture better. Sponge like. 6) selecting a polymer that has a good stability (heat and age resisting) package is important. Keeping from having to do it again in a couple of years. Best regards, -a- Quote
greg51 Posted March 23, 2016 Author Report Posted March 23, 2016 So I stripped old weatherstripping down to bare meta, used 3M contact cement and put on weather stripping from Spruce.....Then tried to close the door. could not even get it close. After trimming hinge areas and strike plate and moving things around at binding points, it took two of us pushing door to finally get it to latch. Same thing on cargo door. I am hoping after sitting overnight it will conform so it will close easier. Any advise on what I did wrong or if this is normal? Quote
Marauder Posted March 24, 2016 Report Posted March 24, 2016 So I stripped old weatherstripping down to bare meta, used 3M contact cement and put on weather stripping from Spruce.....Then tried to close the door. could not even get it close. After trimming hinge areas and strike plate and moving things around at binding points, it took two of us pushing door to finally get it to latch. Same thing on cargo door. I am hoping after sitting overnight it will conform so it will close easier. Any advise on what I did wrong or if this is normal? What Spruce product were you using as a seal? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted March 24, 2016 Report Posted March 24, 2016 The only thing that works correctly is a Mooney door seal. I think some people have had good luck with cheap foam weather stripping. Back in the day I tried all kinds of after market weather stripping and nothing worked well until I got a new Mooney weather strip. It worked great. It is a very thin weather strip. Quote
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