Oil temps

[pilot716]

Just curious to see what other owner's are getting for thier oil temps in cruise? I have the IO360 and we are using the Aviation 100 oil. temps are sitting in the 226-227 area. I just remember them being in the high teens a couple of years ago. Once in a while I will open the cowl flaps about half to cool things down. The baffleing has been checked by a MSC and it is good. Any thoughts?

Thank you,

Mark

[BigTex]

That seems really high. I just pulled the data from my last flight and the highest I saw was 164 degrees on a little over an hour and a half flight.

[Marauder]

  On 9/28/2013 at 1:19 PM, pilot716 said:

Just curious to see what other owner's are getting for thier oil temps in cruise? I have the IO360 and we are using the Aviation 100 oil. temps are sitting in the 226-227 area. I just remember them being in the high teens a couple of years ago. Once in a while I will open the cowl flaps about half to cool things down. The baffleing has been checked by a MSC and it is good. Any thoughts? Thank you, Mark

My IO-360 during the summer will run high 190s to low 200s. Never seen over 210.

[rocketman]

Check your probe or instrument. If your not low on oil something is wrong.

[N201MKTurbo]

Here in the warm Arizona summers I see 225 on climb out and 180 - 190 in cruise.

[orionflt]

180 is the nominal oil temp, 245 is the upper limits I would expect to see temps around 225 in a climb when its hot out, not in cruise. I would make sure your servicing level is correct and that you do not have a blockage or restriction in the oil system, especially the oil cooler. If you don't find anything obvious, bring it over to UKT and we can look at it, I'm there most evenings and weekends. one other thing to check... how have your oil filter and samples looked? have you been making metal?

 

Brian

[Bob_Belville]

I have been working on CHT and OT since buying my E last year. (IO360 with 201 style cowl and baffles.) I just sent the oil cooler and vernatherm valve to Pacific Oil Cooler and had it rebuilt. That might have helped slightly, they reported some coking.

 

I still have to keep cowl flaps open to be under 200 in cruise @ 75% power. @ lower power setting, LOP temps come down. On climb out on a warm day it is hard to not see temps pushing 210-220 for a few minutes when power is a little lower and speed picks up. 

[pilot716]

  On 9/28/2013 at 4:00 PM, orionflt said:

180 is the nominal oil temp, 245 is the upper limits I would expect to see temps around 225 in a climb when its hot out, not in cruise. I would make sure your servicing level is correct and that you do not have a blockage or restriction in the oil system, especially the oil cooler. If you don't find anything obvious, bring it over to UKT and we can look at it, I'm there most evenings and weekends. one other thing to check... how have your oil filter and samples looked? have you been making metal?

 

Brian

Brian,

Thanks for the info, We had the oil changed today and will be sending the sample out for testing. We had the engine repaired (IRAN was done)after a case crack appeared last year, so we were told to wait for at least 3 oil dchnages or 150-200 hours before we test the oil. We also keep 6 quarts and will now try 7 to see if that helps keep it cooler. The MSC mechanic said the temps were normal as long as we are below 135 steady.

[orionflt]

  On 9/28/2013 at 6:46 PM, pilot716 said:

Brian,

Thanks for the info, We had the oil changed today and will be sending the sample out for testing. We had the engine repaired (IRAN was done)after a case crack appeared last year, so we were told to wait for at least 3 oil dchnages or 150-200 hours before we test the oil. We also keep 6 quarts and will now try 7 to see if that helps keep it cooler. The MSC mechanic said the temps were normal as long as we are below 135 steady.

Sounds like you may want to consider flushing out the oil cooler if you are seeing metal in the filter, I might also look to see what you could do to tighten up your baffling to improve the airflow thru the oil cooler.

Brian

[MB65E]

To the OP, that temp you mentioned is getting up there and will need to be looked at sooner than later.  I'd see what happens if you just change the oil and really make sure the baffles are TIGHT.  Most techs are looking for things that are wrong or truly broken, not "How can I really make this better".  Baffles need to be looked at, sealed up with silicone, and taped up.  Its just starting to cool off in most of the country so a lot of our cooling issues will only be masked by the cooler weather over the winter... come next summer the issues will be back.

Our overhaul project on the engine went pretty well!  Our case was  cracked too.  I sent the crank to Aircraft Specialties and had them race balance the crank to prevent future vibration.  Really far so good!  Engine is awesome!!  I've been working on the oil cooling issue myself too.  I've learned a lot.  Not all items here apply to the 201 but here is what I've found that might help others.

1.  The oil cooler relocation kit from Lasar is only for 67 and later M20's .  Ours was a 65 so were stuck with the stock cooler location.

2. Obviously the Vernotherm plays a big part in the cooling.   When I tested ours, it tested fine per Lycoming's SB, however Pacific oil cooler said it was still bad. Funny they had them in stock. The vernotherm may pass the extension test but fail when pressure is applied against it.  Wayne at POC is still awesome.  

3.  The stock Stewart Warner oil cooler is a really good cooler. Double check the fins for bends and bugs. Wayne recommend we stay with it.  (9 rows of cooling fins)  They even make their own coolers and said theirs was not any better than a good SW cooler.

4.  Smooth oil flow thru the fittings is important, try to avoid the AN 90* fittings if possible. Use the smooth radius 90* hose fittings.

5. Keep the oil lines away from the exhaust.

6. The oil cooler plate behind the cooler- Its a little plate .032 sheetmetal stood off the back of the cooler about an inch.  Later models didn't have this , most of the early "C's" and "E's" did have the plate.  I think it helps get the air flowing in the right direction after the cooler and prevents the air off of cylinder #2 from entering the back side of the cooler. Leave it if you have it.

7.  The oil temp gauge itself.  I had a laser thermometer that I shot down the dip stick.  For my purpose, I thought our gauge was reading correctly + or- 5-10* Check it this way first before you overhaul the gauge. Then put a digital one in.

8.  Finally,  the number one most important thing or none of the above will matter!! The oil filter adapter plate gasket is different than the oil pressure screen gasket!!  Engine guys here will say "well YA" But after 16 years of changing oil on many airplanes, I never had to remove the filter housing itself.. It was always just a filter change or pulling the Pressure screen, checking for metal, new P-screen gasket and go!  Thanks to some digging and pictures on the web that solved the issue!!

 

 

Stay Cool. MB

[jetdriven]

Ours runs right here, on the hottest day of the year in Houston.  At 12K feet and 50% power, pretty much any time. Two other J's  ( a '77 and a '78, with high time engines) I have flown also run right there. If you push the nose over for a WOT LOP descent, or when you pull power for landing, or on really cold days, its about 2-3 needle widths less.  Ours also has 90 degree fittings on both sides of the oil cooler.  This is two different engines, two different vernatherms, and two different sets of hoses. It didnt run any higher during the break in flight at 100% power at 1000' in August where the temp was 90F OAT, nor when it was making metal. 

 

Van's RV guys constantly complain about the van's oil cooler and high oil temps. Up to 245 in cruise even. Installing the 201 Stewart Warner oil cooler always fixes it.