N601RX

This is very common practice and seems to work well. Each stage of a splitter will reduce the signal by 3db. So a 1:2 splitter will reduce both outputs by 3db while 1:4 will reduce each output by 6db. For reference 3db is 1/2 of the available signal while 6db is 1/4 of the signal.

I met someone a couple of months ago who purchased a new Mooney last year at sun in fun. He was finally able to take delivery of it the last day of December. They missed several promise dates over a several month period. If they had more orders it's unlikely they would be able to fill them. He told me there was a 20k price increase in jan of this year and an additional $40k price increase for the new ultra.

I think the outer skin of the aluminum work hardens over time from the continual flexing of the prop. They grind the top layer away leaving a new soft layer on the outside. Assuming no deep nicks or corrosion this should be a function of flight hours and not calander time. This process seems to be more of an art than science. They take a disc sander and make long strokes back and fourth on the blade trying to keep the material removal consistent.

A good printer will only leave slight ridges on each layer. They can be sanded off easily. I purchased a spool of carbon fiber reinforced PETG material and it is very strong. If someone will send me a extra switch cover I will be happy to make a 3dmodel of it.

You may be in luck, I attached the Mooney factory drawings for installing HID wing lights. It includes certain serial numbers of the J model. It also list the Precise Flight part numbers for the ballast and bulbs. Assuming your install is in compliance with these drawings you should not need a field approval, just a logbook entry and weight and balance. Mooney HID install diagram.pdf

The FAA cracked down on HID lighting several years ago. Before that it was being done with a log entry or by field approval. There may not be a easy path to straighten this now, proceed carefully. From current version of FAA 8300.16 HID lighting installed and intended for use as primary lighting required to meet performance under the airworthiness standards requires approval by STC.

Yes it is .5000". The valve wizard I have is for angled valves only. http://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/Details.aspx?Article=542

I had to do mine about 4 months ago. I ended buying the stuff needed to do it and getting friend AP to help. I purchased the Valve Wizard and a special piloted reamer from McFarland the pilot was sized to fit snuggly inside an already reamed/gunked up guide and keep the reamer centered. With the valve wizard, we found rope wasn't needed. It took about 45 minutes each for the ones that didn't need reaming and a extra hr for the one that needed reaming. I would be willing to rent the reamer and valve wizard to anyone who needs it so they don't have to buy them. The dial indicator holder and valve extender were 3D printed using the dimensions provides on the Lycoming service bulletin. IMG_0567.MOV

Maule powdercoats both their airframes and engine mounts.

If you are an EAA member you can download and use Solidworks for free.

I would suspect the crimps on the end of the JPI harness where it plugs into the sensor. The wire may feel secure but there could be some insulation under the crimp. Other thing to look for are pushed pins in the connectors.

Just a little daily humor, nothing more

Just remove the lower interior panels

In addition to the seal on top of the wing there is also a large gap down each side of the plane along where the floor meets the sides. In places it is a couple of inches wide and is just covered with tape. If there has ever been a prolonged fuel sender leak the tape will turn loose. McMaster sells a heavier and wider than normal foil tape that is fiber reinforce that will cover the gap well. It also has a fire or smoke rating , I don't remember which.

Why not just measure the tube and buy a piece of 4130 from Spruce? It's only a couple of $ per ft

Pm sent.

You mentioned that all the hoses had just been replaced. When building up a hose it is common practice to lube the ID of the hose and the nipple that screws up into it with heavy oil.

I believe you will find that 111 hose type 312 hose end type(straight) 312 hose end type 6 hose size 18-1/2 length some AP's don't mind repairing a hose by removing the old rubber and replacing it with new while reusing the ends as long as they are not corroded. Others don't won't the liability if anything goes wrong we did this with all my hoses a few years ago, it was around $150 for all 17 or so hoses. Be sure to check the ones behind the panel also. They may still be original.

Currently setting in 3 days of Pro-R/Creo 3.0 CAD training. Somehow Hank wiggled out of it. At least it comes with free lunch.

The EAA has just announced that is has reached an agreement with Solidworks to provide a version of the Software to its members for free. For those who are not familiar with it Solidworks is one of the upper end 3D CAD packages. Previously unless you had access to it at work or was able to get a student version it was priced at around $4K per seat with an additional yearly fee of around $1500, well above the amount most hobbyist were willing to pay. This will allow you to create 3D models that can be printed on 3D printers or machined on CNC equipment. Expect some learning curve for 1st time users. http://www.eaa.org/en/eaa/eaa-news-and-aviation-news/news/07-25-2016-new-member-benefit-from-solidworks http://www.eaa.org/en/eaa/eaa-membership/eaa-member-benefits/solidworks-resource-center

There is a single bolt that connects both ailerons to the control column, However it like all the other joints use locknuts making it extremely unlikely one will ever come off unless someone reuses them several times.

If it happened immediately after the annual I would suspect the mag timing. You mentioned the rpm was stable, but is it correct. Phone apps are available to verify rpm.

The STC can be purchased by EAA members for $100 on their website.

If you still have the generator and have not upgraded to an alternator it's unlikely the generator is the problem. They don't have diodes like alternators, but will occasionally need new brushes. It's likely that you have a broken wire, bad regulator or bad breaker.