N601RX

We had a few DPE's around here loose their authority a few years ago. They were simply told that the FSDO had more than they could manage and they were cutting back on the number in this area. Did you take the checkride in the Rocket?

I fly myself for business travel when it makes sense and looked into this quite a bit before I started doing so. In addition to the reading the regs, there are several legal opinions that mentions some things you might not pick up on from just reading the regs. Basically I can fly myself only on company business and be reimbursed by my employer for it. However, if a coworker goes along, then I could not accept any money from my employer. However I could half the cost of the flight with the coworker provided I did not receive any compensation from my employer. Additionally if there is a coworker involved then I have to have a business reason to go other than just to fly the coworker along. Basically if a coworker is involved, it doesn't make financial sense unless you and the coworker are up for an adventure on your own dime. I would not volunteer to add my employer or anyone else as an additional insured unless that was the only way they would let me fly. If you do add them, then your insurance coverage is essentially cut half. If you have 1M smooth and there was a judgement of $750K against you and $750K against your employer then the insurance is going to pay 500K for each and leave you hanging for the other $250K.

I just had to replace my throttle cable. McFarland would duplicate my existing one for $375 if I shipped them the old one. Maxwell sold me a new one for $386, so the cost is pretty much equal after you add the cost of shipping the old one to McFarland. The new one was manufactured by McFarland. Looks nice and very smooth. Not fun to install.

I'll take one today. You basically pull it up tight around the bottom side of the case snout and then pull the other end up toward the engine lift point. A couple of adel clamps will also help secure it. It may not be the best of shape in several years, but should still get you back home.

I keep a second belt semi installed. Just cut the safety wire that keeps it out of the way and slip it over the pulleys and tighten.

The 150 increase in egt is pointing to one of the plugs not firing. Turn one of your mags off in flight and you will see the same increase or more if you leave it off very long. EGT probes will eventually burn up due to the environment they are in, but CHT probes should not go bad as long as the wires to them don't break or rub.

Has the oil pressure ball and seat been inspected? You mentioned having the heavier spring above, but if the ball is not seating correctly in the seat or the seat has imperfections in it the oil pressure is going to be low. I remember a couple of service bulletins about this.

I had my ailerons off last year and found they had several large dirt dubber nest in them. They were along the trailing edge and heavy enough to affect the balance. I thought about adding some hardware cloth over the round holes, but didn't. I did add a good coat of corrosion X. Hopefully that will help deter insects.

With the master switch on, I tested the voltage across the Solenoid. It was 25v on Batt side and @ 5-7v on the other terminal. You should look more into this. The 18-20 volt drop across the solenoid is the problem. Keep in mind it may or may not be the solenoid itself, it could be one of the connections to the solenoid. You need to do your testing with some load on the system such as the landing light on.

They are not balanced until they are neutral. They should be under balanced. The exact amount can be found in the service manual

Assume flying directly into an 8 knot headwind and turning 20 deg in each direction. 8knots= direct headwind. 8cos20=7.51 =+-20 deg headwind component (which most GPS will round back up 8) Unless you have a GPS that will display decimal places, at best your measurement will have a resolution of 8 knots. Selecting the 3 headings 90 deg apart also makes the math easier.

The 3 angles need to be spread out to be accurate. When the 3 tracks are close together there is very little difference in the gps speed speed between the 3 angles. Keep in mind that most gps will round the speed off to a whole number.

I know Mooney has used 2 different set ups for the copilot brakes. The retrofit kit that mooney provided for the C-K models plumbs them up in series. When you press the pilot side brakes the fluid flows out of the pilot side master cylinder and through the copilot side master cylinder and then out to the respective wheel cylinder. There was also another setup they used that has them in parallel with a shuttle valve.

Some of the master cylinders have a slot milled into the end piece that helps get the trapped air out. When reassembling this has to go up to be effective. Once their together you can't tell if its up or sideways unless you put a mark on the outside.

The early F model POH is pretty basic and doesn't include a CAS chart, but here is one for a J. It appears to match what I see on my F.

Although with the JPI 900 I finally have a digital fuel level readout that has been calibrated and appears to work well, I still have more trust in the fuel flow transducer. I no longer switch tanks every 30 minutes as I was originally trained to do, I just switch them every 10 gallons. That makes it very easy for me to keep up with how much fuel is in left in each tanks and it accurately accounts for fuel used during climb or any other flight condition.

Here is one data point. It would be interesting to see others. http://www.mooneypilots.com/mapalog/M20F%20Evaluation/M20F_Evaluation_Report.html

I'm in the process getting everything together to put a J cowling on my F. A good cowl and the necessary accessories are difficult to find, usually if J is damaged enough to be parted out, the cowl is trashed also. I looked for about 3 years before I found what I considered to be a good enough deal for me to do it. It's going to be a few months before I start the work, but will post pictures when I start.

After my second lesson, I decided the $20 headsets that came with the cessna 150 had to go. They would not stay in place, hurt my head, very noisy, and had to continually adjust the wireframe that held the mic. Much like the original poster I didn't want to spend a lot of money on headsets, but decided on a pair of lightspeed 15xcl. I thought these were the best things ever. Compared to what I had they were quite and comfortable. Several years later I came across someone who needed to sell a almost new pair of Zulu 2's. They are awesome. 5 hr flight , no problem. The bluetooth interface is also nice for phone calls and for foreflight to tell you that you are approaching an active runway or give you other information. My advice would be to take your time looking on aviation forums and ebay and get the best ones that you think you can afford. Lightspeed also has a trade in program that may help. You should be able to easily find the older lightspeeds such as the 15xcl for around $100 on ebay, or if you take your time ocasionally you will see a pair of Zulu 2's in the $500 range.

I've always thought his numbers are pretty for out on the high side for the average plane. However last year when I was getting my insurance updated after supplying the underwriter a copy of his evaluation they agreed to up the coverage to what I was asking so it did help me out.

I would also place the cylinder being filled in a container of water. It will allow you to fill it completely without having a pressure drop after filling it and it will help contain the mess if something goes wrong.

If your using a Concorde battery I don't think there is any need for a battery minder, unless your not going to be flying for a several months. These batteries have a very low self discharge rate, if they are draining down enough to have a noticeable affect on cranking, then something is wrong with the battery, or their is something on the aircraft draining them. The other possibility is the voltage regulator is not set correctly to keep them fully charged.

The extra length may be due to the way they chose to route them. If they were routed around the back side of the engine instead of immediately going inside the baffling the length may be fine. The ignition cap will have a sticker with a part number on it. I replaced mine a couple of years ago with the correct part number and all the length worked out perfect.

I had a problem with a fuel and brake line rubbing. The way it was positioned, it wasn't obvious that it was rubbing. http://mooneyspace.com/topic/5456-brake-and-fuel-line-rubbing/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Bline+%2Brubbed

I have some extra ones with the lip if you need one.