N601RX

Look inside the wing and make sure it is not in there. There are at least 2 styles. One fits on the outside and just has holes in it and the other has a lip rolled into it with nut plates mounted on it.

Aero-In-Stock has most of the parts in stock and can order the others. It only took the 3 days or so to get the ones they did not have. They charged me about $100 for the points and capacitor 2 years ago. When replacing them be careful to get the small insulators back in their place or it will be shorted out. Follow the overhaul manual for setting the dwell on the points, this isn't an obvious adjustment as it involves slightly bending the arm. If it isn't correct, the current and spark will be weak or either to high and damage the primary coil in the mag.

You want to be able to see the inner surface that would be in the lower right hand corner of the picture you posted. Look for oval shaped wear and any taper.

Once you determine your favorite LOP setting take note of your fuel flow. Next time you can just pull mixture to the same flow much quicker. No need to locate the peak each time.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/stpages/cad2014.php

Its more than likely porosity. We have a large foundry where I work and it seems to be a problem that pops up from time to time. We pressure test everything we make to catch this, but occasionally we get stuff back that started to leak later on. Sometimes its obvious from just looking at it, but other times the surface is fine while there are numerous pores just under the surface waiting to pop through.

From the pictures it is way off centerline of the runway. If you looks at an overhead image it looks like it came to rest more in line with the taxiway.

Does anyone know anything about this? Is the car behind it involved also? http://www.pottsmerc.com/general-news/20141001/plane-overshoots-runway-at-pottstown-municipal-airport

I had been looking for one for a couple of years to put on my F model. Every time I would see an J model being parted out I would call, but the story was always the same. It was destroyed in the mishap that totaled the plane. A few months ago one popped up on ebay with all the accessories I need to do the conversion. Surprisingly I was the only person to bid on it.

See if the part number has been superseded. If you ordered a new one today would you get the new or old style? If it's the new style then your good.

Kind of like this.

Ask the mechanic to determine if the low compression is due to leaky exhaust valve or around the rings. Follow this service bulletin, It may be as simple as staking the valves. http://www.swaircraftappraisals.com/MeyersForum/Maintenance/Continental%20SBs/M8415.pdf

Is it the courtesy light that lights up the footwell area?

There is another advantage to pulling up. It shields part of the windshield with the cowling.

I don't believe that a long ground run is bad as long as you have a way to monitor it. On the ground with 55 deg OAT it takes my engine around 10-12 minutes to get the oil to 200 deg F. When flying it hardly ever gets to 200. With a 1100 to 1200 RPM idle leaned on the ground will give me 200 deg oil temps with cylinder temps of around 350. Once the temps get up it's just a matter of sitting there for whatever amount of time you feel is necessary. I used 35-45 minutes. I've done this a few times when I've been unable to fly due to mechanical work being done and didn't want it to sit. I attached the engine monitor output in the picture below. This graph was the 1st time I did it, but later found that it would heat up quicker at lower rpms. The sweet spot seems to be around 1200-1400. Above there seems to be more of a cooling affect from the prop. This is with a relocated oil cooler. A short ground run is very bad. I've saw a plane that was cranked and taxied for 3 or 4 minutes over to another hanger and a rocker cover gasket replaced. There was drops of water inside.

I've been taking care of and flying a plane for a friend while he is deployed. I fly it for 45 minutes twice a month. It's a plane I used to own so I was already familiar with it. Is there someone local who you could count on to look after it? I've always heard ground runs wouldn't do any good and would just generate more moisture but had to do them a couple of times earlier this year. It is possible to get the oil up to temp at around 1200 rpms and the cylinder temps will be normal. I let it run for about 40 minutes after the oil temp reached 200. I posted the engine monitor data in another thread back in January.

Big difference when a carbureted intake pipe falls off and a fuel injection one comes off.

I have a fiberglass belly and put the 2nd com antenna on it. We used 8 strips of 1/4 wavelength 1" copper tape on he top side to provide the groundplane. It worked out very well. I've had ATC tell me they would probably loose me when in spotty areas, but did not loose them.

Judging from the length it is a com antenna. I put my second com antenna on the belly. I was in a similar situation and wanted to buy a cover but didn't want the antenna sticking up through it. I moved the front com antenna from the top of the cabin to the belly and then installed a gps antenna where the com antenna was. The belly mount antenna seems to work well in the air.

For planes with the Brittain altitude hold, opening the window will give you a full down elevator deflection. It's not connected to the static, it just senses cabin pressure

It would be good to know before doing any work if the oil pressure will adjust up above 65 or not. There was another member a couple of years ago that could not adjust his oil pressure above 65psi. If I remember correctly it turned out one of his piston oiling nozzles had worked itself out.

The oil pressure is adjustable. There has been some speculation that higher oil pressure is better and provides more oil to the rockers and valves.

Is it possible you didn't have the prop control all the way in? I tried to do a runup one day with it out some and the engine sounded very loaded down and would not go past 1700 rpms.

4 quarts is a lot to be blown out by a broken ring unless you had been flying for a few hrs. I had 2 broken rings on different cylinders and several oil leaks when I overhauled my engine a couple years ago and was loosing a little over a quart per hr. The "Solid 60 +" oil pressure on takeoff is still in the edge of the green but is lower than what most shops set the oil pressure at. Has it always been this low?