N601RX

Update: Both the hobbs and tach time recorder can be reset in the field with special instructions from JPI. You can also set the RPM you want the tach time recorder to use so it counts the same as your old tach. Also as Bob mentioned above, although you can't change the primary limits you can set up alert messages for parameters that will cause a message to pop up at any temp you choose. So even though my CHT limits are set a 475 and can't be changed I can set it to pop up an alert when they go above any temperature I choose.

Check on the price of the install, its likely to be as much or more than the monitor. If your looking to save, find a mechanic who will let you do the work under his supervision.

I opened up my tanks a few years ago and there was quite a bit of debree in the bottom of them. Especially in the inboard tank. I have bladders that have been in for about 20 years so it wasn't tank sealent.

Remove the seat bottom and then remove the screws and tape that hold the inspection panels. If it has a 1pc belly you can do it from the bottom side while the belly is off.

Does anyone know how to set the digital tach on a 900 or 930 to match the tach time on the old tach? I called and asked and they said email them a request and they would send a PDF that explained how to do it. I emailed them late today but it looks like it will be Tuesday before I get a response. Also does anyone know for sure what rpm the original tach uses to equate to 1 hr of time. I think I've heard 2566 before, but never saw it in writing.

The flow sensor is just a wheel with pedals extending from it. As the pedals rotate by the pickup pulses are generated. The gauge measures the time between the pulses and then uses the K factor to calculate Gallons per hr.

There both a torque and angle spec on these. Going from memory I think it was 60 in lbs, but the hole in the side has to be up also. The hole is opposite of the marking.

Unfortunately the older model POH is considerably thinner and lacking in many areas compared to the J and newer ones, (30 pages vs 180 pages). The POH for the F model says to use the fuller tank and that can get you into trouble. Its one of those things I learned the hard way and luckily didn't bend anything in the process.

I've found that starting the slip early gives me a chance to get a good feel for what the plane and winds are doing and what is necessary to keep it lined up. I've also found that in a long slip that when pulling gas from the downward wing the engine will start to sputter even though there is still 7 or 8 gallons in the low tank..

I think it has a lot to do with location. The person I mentioned above is a C130 pilot in his day job and he isn't trying to make a living renting planes and instructing. We are in a small rural area and he usually keeps 2 or 3 students. The plane is also based out of a grass strip at his house so he has little overhead. By comparison a C150 usually rents for around $95, a C172 $115 and a retractable Arrow is $140 at a nearby airport. I've looked at renting planes before when I've flown somewhere interesting on a commercial flight and just want to go fly around some in that local area. I have always came to the conclusion that it isn't worth it because of the insurance requirement, checkouts and rental rates/contracts.

A CFII Friend of mine has been renting his C150 dry for $35hr for the last 7 or 8 years. He has an autofuel fuel tank you can pay him to fill it up from if you wish, so you are looking at around $50 wet. He has told me a couple of times it is break even at that price and he get free use of the plane himself.

Hector at Aero Comfort has them already made up.

Our local Schools have started an aviation program that will allow students to get their pilots license while in high school. Free of Charge to them! http://www.troymessenger.com/2014/05/08/flying-futures/

I have some oversized bolts if anyone needs them. When I rebuilt the engine a couple of years ago I had the case machined to use hollow dowls for alignment and orings for sealing. I then purchased a set of stock sized bolts, the oversized ones were quite pricy.

The oring usually does a good job of sealing the cylinder to the case, unless there is a nick on the case. A loose leaking throughbolt is a lot more common. Oversized bolts are available.

Here is the Mooney Drawing that allows it to be removed. There was rumors that the rod end could come off the shock and jam the gear. According to the attachment it serves no useful purpose. I removed mine a couple of years ago and recovered the 2 lbs on my W&B. Shock Removal.pdf

I've found the engine rpm app on my iPhone to be very accurate. It matches the jpi exactly.

We made up some new hoses to replace the original hoses behind my panel and on the flaps about 2 years ago. They were not leaking but we're very stiff. When I removed the ends I found a couple were corroded pretty bad. They looked ok from the outside. I think I posted a picture a couple of years ago.

Nulites work very well and do a good job of lighting the complete instrument. Each one has 2 bulbs so you will still get some light if one blows. They have a slightly larger footprint than some instruments so plan the layout accordingly.

The crank gear bolt and drive dowel is the common link to all the accessories. If it shears then you loose the cam timing, oil pump, both mags, fuel pump and vac pump. There was a local plane went down here because the crank bolt appeared to be left out at overhaul and after a few hundred hrs the dowel broke. No traces of the bolt or locking tab were found during the post ditching tear down.

Yep that .058 inner cable is straight from the lawn and garden section at Lowes.

It involves soldering 2 wires to the back side of the mic jack and routing them up through the control shaft. Then attach them to a normally open momentary switch.

I think it is a Cleveland part. Check Spruce.

Check for corrosion under the antenna. If the antenna has been there a long time there is likely some between it and the aluminum skin. Also look into the tray at the RF connectors in the back of the tray. Each of these should small partial circular fingers sticking out around each one that makes the connection to the coax shield. These fingers are easily broken off if the radio is forced into the tray while misaligned. Also look on the back side of each RF connector on the tray and make sure the coax shield is still soldered to the connector, these are often covered with heatshrink. Coax continuity and shorts can also be checked with an ohm meter, but isn't an absolute guarantee the coax is good. The attached picture is of a coax with a broken shield that had very poor range and noise leaking into the audio panel when keyed. It was covered with heatshrink. You can also see the circular fingers I mentioned above.

If your planning to use an A&P for the overhaul this will not matter, but if your planning on sending it out to an engine shop then you need to discuss it with them first. Many of them will not reuse mags even if they are almost new are have just been overhauled.