N601RX

Its a mechanical valve attached to the rear of the turn cordinator.

I like the idea of just shipping the luggage. Get a couple of lockable large Pelican Cases and just ship them to where you are going. It will not take many gallon of 100LL to pay for the shipping. You can ship them to any ups store, postoffice, hotel or business. I've done this a lot with test equipment and large electronics while flying commercial and never had any problems. My stuff is there when I get there. Mike

There is a "T" fitting in the top of the flap cylinder. The rear end of the T has a cap on it. I removed the cap and pushed fluid in from there and it worked good. My flap lever has a fair amount of resistance. If it just falls down on its own I would assume the cable is broken or came loose from the back of the lever. The valve on the pump has almost no resistance.

The brakes come off the bottom of the tank, the flaps come off the side about an inch higher up.

You should be able to greatly reduce the warm up time by placing the heater on the top of the cowling and rigging up a return line through the oil filler door. Perhaps just put some foam weatherstripping on the back of the heater and lay it facing up over oil fill opening. This will allow the air to recirculate and get warmer. You can also add a dipstick heater for $20 or so.

I just put a set of angled boot wires on this weekend. I purchased the aerolight brand. They were about 1/2 price of the Champion brand and I was a little concerned about that. After they arrived and I looked them over I was happy with them. They seem well made. I can post a picture when I get home tonight.

If its the same one used in the F varnish and sludge will build up on the ball and seat and allow the drain to leak while setting or suck air while running. It can be took apart and cleaned.

I assume you looked the drain tubes over good. The early through through studs to not use any seals. They rely an an interference fit to stop the oil. If it is the through studs you can get a couple of oversized studs and install them in the field. If I remember correctly the .001 can be installed with out reaming while the .003 requires reaming 1st. If they are loose be careful, the case halves will fret. If this has happened bad enough you can close up the main bearing clearance when retorquing the cylinders. There is a service bulleting that deals with the and stopping leaks around the through studs. When I overhauled my engine I had oring pockets machined into the case half to prevent oil from leaking out past the through bolts.

I work in the same city (Montgomery) that Hartzell has their repair station and manufacturing faculity in. They are continually advertising for engineers. The qualifications begains with something like 1. Be able to come in and within 6 months identify the 5 most serious product defects and warrenty issues. I have no interest.

Most people have just done this as a logbook entry. You will need to buy 2 new rear windows for a J model. Also you will need to order the 2 pieces of aluminum angle the the J's used above their window. The last year the F was made it came from the factory this way. I have a letter from Mooney stating that that strength and W&B is not affected and they consider it a minor change. If your IA will not go along with this a field approval should be easy since you are just upgrading to the newer style using Mooney parts. If I remember correctly the single window was cheaper than the 2 windows and the anglar support was about $100. I can get the pn's out of my logs if you are interested in them

I'm not sure if you have put the windows back in or not, but removing the strip from between the rear windows and putting in a newer style 1 pc window will help the looks.

At 65% they are still making a profit.

What mods have been completed? I can't quite tell from the pic.

Zephers may be your best bet at getting something tomorrow morning. They are not very for away. Charley is on beechtalk, he might answer a pm tonight.

I've never saw a number before, but prop manufactures should be able to supply a rpm/thrust chart for any given pitch angle. The charts should be specified in lbs. In regards to the numbers above which was measured at 250mph my guess is that when slowed down to 180mph they would be negligible when compared to the drag of the plane.

Do you think if we sent them a model Mooney they would let it taxi around with the big jets?

Any update?

Very well done. Looks real. cost 4.8M and took 7 years to build. http://www.youtube.c...feature=related

I've been needing one also. I found this one, seems to be the same size, but a little cheaper. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/av74_ant.php?clickkey=4083

Aero in stock can get the parts. A little over $100. I have a copy of the manual if you would like a copy send me your e-mail. The next option is the slick start, but it is over $600 and requires more time to install. Mike

https://www.aircraft...mingtx330es.php harness included

The slow to warm cylinder may be using a different style probe. This is probably the cylinder your factory gauge is on. Its also possible that the probe on that cylinder isn't in firm contact with the cylinder.

While replacing the point and condenser in my shower of sparks it had a very weak spark after the gap was set. The spark would only jump a 1mm gap and the coil current was a little under 1 amp. After slightly bending the contact arm upward (per the overhaul manual for the SOS) the coil current increased to 2.4 amps and the spark came alive. Anyone who has a slow starting engine or one that is prone to flooding or fouling plugs might want to have their SOS looked at. The attached video is with the spark gap set to 5mm. If you don't have proper tools, I suppose you could also use your finger! Shower of Sparks.MOV

Back to my original point. You can still buy a new 430 for $7750. Used ones are selling for $7500.

I'm looking for a 14 to 28 volt Lone Star voltage converter. LS03-05002-B Thanks, Mike