N601RX

Their were some articles on the old modworks website and they offered a package to quieten things down. I think they used the thicker stick on foam as well as thicker windows. I have the thicker windows and a ANR headset and don't think it is excessively loud. There is also a booklet available on soundproofing airplanes. If I remember correctly it is downloadable from spruce or the company of the soundproofing they sell. Found it, here is the link. http://soundproofing.org/infopages/soundprf.htm

Would you mind posting a picture of the mounting? I have one I need to mount. Mike

I have the interav alternator conversion also. The voltage was up to 15.5V. I decided to use the plane power regulator. It is a PMA repalcement for the interav unit, and also has the overvoltage relay built in instead of external as with the interav regulator. If or when the alternator ever fails, I will then just buy the plane power alternator without buying the complete kit.

The article said lead acid and ni-cads. I've been involved in the development of a couple of commercial systems at work that uses Lithium technology. The charging has to be very closely monitored and controlled. At the very least it would require a special voltage regulator with a lot of intelligence built into it.

I just replaced my 6 year old Concord RG35AXC with another Concord another RG35AXC. I also had to replace the regulator due to high voltage output. Concord recommends adjusting the voltage regulator depending on outside temp, so I'm going to try to remember to tweak it in the fall and spring. I've saw batteries discussed here a lot, but don't remember seeing this mentioned before. New Bitmap Image (2).bmp

I came across this on Concords website. It will be interesting to see how this plays out. It will not be a direct replacement and will require some additional equipment. The trick will be keeping the price reasonable. It could possibly be 15lbs or so lighter. http://www.concordebattery.com/lion.php

The ones that spruce sells are the longer style. Chief has some that are the shorter style that are the same as the same length as the originals used on the belly. The longer ones will work, they will just stick out a little more. My advice is to go around your plane or look in the parts manual and take an inventory of the different screws used and order several of each. They are only a few cent each and you will be glad you have them later on.

The problem may be the plastic cover. It will come off pretty easy. They are comfortable in flight. I'll see about Sunday, I have a few things I need to finish up.

The reel is mounted on a single bolt and will rotate pretty easy if pulled on. My plane is back flying now if you want to stop by and see how the ir ones from alpha work.

A drop or 2 of oil on the bearing will work wonders for the noise. Would you mind posting a pic of the mounting scheme?

Walter, I was the engineer there at Globe Motors for several years. If you will call the Dothan, Al facility and ask for Bobbie Eldridge she will get you what you need. It may be cheaper to just buy a new one. Their a large company and the repair station is a small part of their business, so if you just sent an an e-mail it may not make to someone who can answer it. Mike

The glide ratio is about 12.7:1 so at 1000ft of altitude you can glide 12,700 ft or 2.4 miles. How high will your plane climb in 2.4 miles?

The last several F models that came from the factory had the 1pc rear windows already installed, so in essence you are using Mooney parts from a later F(or J/K) to upgrade a older F model. Some IA's I talked to told me the would require a 337 which they though would be easy to get, others thought that it was a logbook entry after I showed them the e-mail from Mooney. The later mooney manuals also state that all the structural loads in the cabin area are carried by the steel tubing and the skins are to "keep the wind out" Here are the pn's for the stiffeners that have to be riveted above the windows. Left Side 340285-007 Right Side 340285-008. You will also have to cut the center strip out of the interior panels and join them back together. For those who wanted a copy of the e-mail from Mooney pm me with your e-mail address.

The center strip is cut out, 2 doublers are riveted along the top of the window and J windows installed. I have a letter from Mooney Engineering stating that it is not structural and does not change W&B. It really helps the looks. I can look up the pn of the 2 doublers if you need them. They are J parts also. The last few F models came from the factory this way.

The reason I mentioned the rebates is that JPI was offering a 3 or 4 hundred rebate through the end of last year and I wasn't sure it they had extended them or not. They usually offer them around airshows and the end of the year, so you might be able to get a good deal on a 930 by waiting. At Oshkosh 2 years ago they were offering $500 rebates and the retailers were giving discounts on top of that.

Find the best price online (spruce, gulfcoast, sarasota, chief, ect), deduct the current rebate from JPI and then reduce the price enough to make it worth someones time to go used (6 months warranty left) instead of new.

I put the inertia reel alpha belts in 2 years ago and like them. I have no problem reaching down and turning the fuel selector.

Just make sure it is not the original line from 67. Until a few months ago I still had the original. Hard as a rock!

Although my engine had 1800 hrs on it, it had been sitting for the last 7 years. It was only flow 30 min or so each year to or from annual. My mechanic and I took it apart and overhauled it. Pretty much all the steel parts in it had rust on them. The crank and rods cleaned up and were ok. Cam, lifters, wristpins, and geartrain had to be replaced. If it is pitted and grinding itself up continuing to fly it will make the overhaul much more expensive.

Take a look at it before ordering a new one. If its the KA 33 type a drop of oil on the bearings may be all it needs. If its the muffin fan type you will not be able to get the oil to the bearing.

I think some of the aftermarket regulators have a self resetting overvoltage feature built into them. It it's not a loose wire or corroded busbar something may be going on with the regulator/ overvoltage.

If you have the Brittain wing leveler that is driven off the turn cordinator, the turn cordinator should run off both suction and voltage. If one fails the other takes over.

Yes that is it. More than likely the rubber has a tear in it or the line is broken between the fitting on the top and behind the panel. The rubber bellow can be checked for leaks by rigging up a hose and blowing into it gently and checking for leaks.

I rehosed all my lines a few months ago. The ones behind the panel and under the belly still had the original tags from 67. They were not leaking, but were hard as a rock.

It may be a gear door not closing up completely, or cowl flap bumping exhaust.