N601RX

I noticed there is a mooney TKS system on ebay being parted out

I have also saw the paper gasket on the back side of the glass come loose and stick out enough to bind the needle. As mentioned above, you should hear the electric pump change sound as the pressure builds.

Looks like the quick sell items have been removed and the rest is being passed off as an unfinished project. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966-mooney-m20e-airframe-/130819157437?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid=111000&algo=REC.CURRENT&ao=1&asc=14&meid=4183927236880093888&pid=100015&prg=1006&rk=1&sd=130819157437&&forcev4exp=true#ht_522wt_948

Agree. Its absured to see one that is 5 years old sell for $250 less than a new one. For a month or so after the 750's came out I saw several sell for $5500-$6000. Then the crept back up to over $7000. Also with Garmins flat rate repair, if there is anything at all wrong or goes wrong with it you suddenly have more than a new one in it. Not enough reward for the risk on my opinion

What you are describing usually happens on planes that use cables and pulleys. I can't think of any way to make this happen on a Mooney.

Chief. Steinair and San Lupos usually has good prices also. Did it come with a new pin kit for the connectors? I believe their prices also include a complete harness .

These are selling for $7750 brand new in box with full garmin warrenty.

Many of the old ELT 's will re-radiate strong signal that the recieve on their antenna, even though they don't contain a reciever. In addition to the above, make the 2 coaxes are not bundled together. Although not on aircraft, I've used directional couplers at work before to solve similiar problems. If the ACK 406 doesn't exhibit the problem, at least you would be getting something new for your money. I put one in earlier this year.

Some of the early models with split seats are also removable. On my 67F, you just pull a spring loaded pin and the seat back comes right out.

If you read any NTSB accident investigation where engine failure is a remote possibility you will see that mag timing is one of the 1st things they check. If you have made post on internet forums bragging about playing around with different ignition timing that pretty much leaves you with zero wiggle room.

I noticed Lasar has an early model 210 on their website for sale. I think they had it listed for around 60K, with a note that the owner had just spend 25K on it.

eufaula has a good restraunt on the field.

I'm having a hard time believing both planes are in equal condition with the price difference only 10k. For those prices I would expect the F to be top notch and the K to be in need of some work.

It can be done using parts from a newer Mooney with a 337..

Kosola replaced a couple of tubes on mine and added the gussets to get rid of the AD for the previous owner. The bill was around $1K.

Is the current belt the correct one?

There a couple on ebay. One is lycoming, one is large continental, not sure about the 3rd one. It's possible you might save some labor if you could find a replacement and swap them out. You might be able to do it without completely unhooking everything.

Yes, the fluid goes in the low point and the air goes out the high point. I've done cars from the top down, but never tried it on the Mooney. It would seem to me like you would have trouble getting the air out of the caliper with the bleed screw in the bottom, unless you unbolted it and held it upside down.

I used this pump up sprayer from Lowes. It cost around $7 and will hold a whole quart of fluid which is more than enough to bleed dual brakes and flaps. Once pumped up it takes less than 20 seconds per side. It's also best to screw a fitting with a clear hose into the reservoir run it down the outside and place it in something. That way its easy for one person to tell when its full and their is no possibility of making a mess. Also if the nipple doesn't have a rubber cap on it clean it out good and let a little fluid drain out of it. Otherwise your probably pushing dirt back into the system.

Trouble shooting a non working alternator should take less than 1hr, and doesn't involve replacing the battery and voltage regulator without knowing they are bad. With a meter and the KNOWLEDGE to use it, it only takes a few minutes. Randomly changing parts is not the answer. I've saw some very good mechanical guys, but electrical stuff was just not their thing.

It should come up within a few seconds of starting. You shouldn't have to rev the engine. It sounds like the boot has a hole or hose broken. Both of these will let unfiltered air into your vac system.

Here is the wiring diagram. With the master on if you are getting close to battery voltage on F1 and F2 is grounded the alternator should produce output when spinning. If not its bad. I have saw F2 grounded a couple of different ways before. Some are just grounded to a point close to the alternator, and some run the ground back to the ground point on the regulator, which is also grounded to the firewall. http://www.plane-power.com/images/Installation_Packages/SINGLE_ENGINE_WIRING.pdf

Yes that's it. Without it the engine will ground throught the prop and mixture cable and will basically melt them.

One other very important thing. There should be a heavy braided ground strap from your engine case to the firewall. Make sure this is in place and there is no paint under it.

No. There should be a short wire that goes from a terminal on the alternator back to ground. I'm not familiar with plane power, but this is the way most alternators are set up.