N601RX

Remember the "Ultimately Mooney" that went for a swim a while back? Same bunch from Tn. Anytime I see a mooney from that area of TN I would be very cautious. His son from OK also list some of them for him.

There is one individual in that area of Tennessee that buys damaged and flooded Mooneys as insurance salvage and pieces them back together. He doesn't necessary advertise them as such. Be sure you know the history of the plane you are looking at.

The biggest expense is the lighting. You loose the lights built into the back of the plastic and either have to buy post lights or ringlightsfor each instrument. I used nulights. They were about $43 each.

I remember it selling a week or 2 ago. It seemed to meet the reserve, but was then relisted the next day.

I installed the Davtron 655. It shows OAT, density an pressure altitude. It hooks into the encoder, so the pressure altitude is the same as the transponder sees.

I think you can upgrade from the 700 to 830 display for the same price. The difference would be that you have to buy the extra sensors. In addition to the ones you have already mentioned do you already have fuel flow, oil temp, oil pressure and outside temp? All these are standard on the 830. Some of these sensors are pretty expensive, so you might want to compare the cost of upgrading your unit to the cost of selling it and just buying the 830 and having all new sensors. I got a new 830 with all the sensors at Oshkosh last year for $2600.

The 830 is basically a 730 with all the options plus a couple of other things. I think they have rebates on both until the end of the year.

If its only points and capacitor, and everything else appears to be in good condition they can be swapped out relatively cheaply compared to the cost of a new mag. However, if you are going to need a new coil and distributor block also you will quickly approach the cost of a new mag which was about $850 a few weeks ago when I looked. I ended up freshing the old one up a bit and putting it back on. I also looked at the Electroair system a bit. Its expensive, but if your needing a new retard breaker mag, SOS box and harness the price is a little easier to swallow. There were several people on www.vansairforce.com that had problems with them in the past, so I decided to wait a while and see.

I was an engineer at an aerospace electric motor actuator manufacturer for several years. I don't think we made the actuator your referring to, but it was common practice to engineer enough friction into the motor and gearbox so it wouldn't "backdrive" when the power was removed. Sometimes this was in the form of a mechanical spring actuated brake, other times it was with gearbox design, bearing/bushing selection, or even just the thickness or amount of grease we used. Has the motor recently been sprayed with any lubricant? If so some may have got on the brake if it has one.

I have cad drawings I developed when I made my new panels. Several other people on here have used them or modified versions of them to make new panels. PM me with your e-mail address and I'll e-mail them to you.

The shower of sparks box has 2 terminals on it. One is voltage in and the other is BO which is the pulsed output. When you turn the key to start, voltage is applied to the voltage in terminal. The SOS box chops this voltage up and pulses it out on the BO terminal. It then goes back to the BO terminal on the switch. The switch has a set of internal contacts that Connect BO to the LR terminals together on the switch when in the start position. The pulses then travels from the LR terminal of the switch down the 3rd P lead to the retard breaker input on the left mag. This mag has a separate set of contacts that is retarded 25 deg to allow the mag to produce a SOS as the piston comes by TDC. The switch also grounds out the right mag during this process. Check all 3 P-Leads closely, one may be broken. This system will fire the plugs even if the prop is stationary if any of the pistons are near top dead center so be very careful if troubleshooting it. I always remove one plug from each cylinder to remove any possibility of an unexpected engine start up.

Kicking back is bad. It can break some expensive stuff. The shower of sparks box itself is a coil with a set of points and a capacitor. I just replaced the points and cap in the one I have. You can google it and find the overhaul manual online. The capacitor pn has changed. It could also be the retard points in the mag, but I would start with the shower of sparks box itself.

By SOS do you mean shower of sparks? The parts to rebuild these only cost about $120

If I remember correctly from when we reassembled our engine these have a 1/16 NPT thread, the same as a few of the other internal oil plugs. However if you look in the table of limits in the back of the overhaul manual these 4 nozzels have a different torque from the other 1/16 npt plugs. Its likely these were installed with the lower generic torque instead of the higher specific torque for this part. The ball and spring closes the flow of oil any time the oil pressure drops below about 40psi. Above that it opens up and sprays oil. I just looked this up to make sure. Lycoming list the generic torque for a 1/16 npt thread as 40in-lbs. These nozzles are also 1/16 NPT, but their torque is specifically listed at 100 in-lbs. That would explain all them being loose. I'm suprised the engine was able to hold 60 psi oil pressure with one of them out. The nozzles get their oil directly from the main bearing galley.

It was only STC'd for the A36 and PA28. Any other aircraft would either be a logbook entry or field approval depending on who does the work. This practice was very common with the 1st and 2nd generation ifr gps's of the 90's. The manufacturer would only STC it for one model aircraft and all others would require a field approval and custom flight manual supplement. You can look up STC's here. http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgSTC.nsf/MainFrame?OpenFrameSet

I hope it was tied down and not flying when it happened. My wife and I was trapped in a car on the road a few years ago durring the hail storm. We just set in the car while it was totaled out. The front window was caved in and the others were busted out. It lasted at least 5 minutes.

Unfortunately their waiting list is a couple of years long. Looks like there is a good demand for cheap autopilots.

I remember a similiar post either here or on MAPA list about a year ago.

Something like this? http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/sealAllconnectors9.php

I have a couple of late model Master Cylinders if a new seal kit doesn't fix yours.

I remember some post from a while back with people having problems getting the air out so I thought I would post this. I tried to post a picture, but it would not upload. I purchased a small 1/2 gallon pump up sprayer from Lowes for $7 and attached a piece of clear hose to it. It had a push button valve to control the fluid flow. My brake and flap system was completely drained and it took about 20 seconds to push the fluid from the wheel cylinder up to the tank. I have copilot brakes also so it had to push the oil through both sets of Master Cylinders. All 4 of the Master cylinders were rebuilt with a new seal set, so that may have helped with the ease of the oil going through the lines. I also used it to to bleed the hydraulic flaps. There is a "T" with one end capped on the flap cylinder for bleeding. I purchased a quart of fluid and had about 10oz left over. The brakes and flaps were firm with no air at all.

rayjay parts owns the one to install the turbo on the engine. They will sell you the paperwork for around $250. They used to own the one to install it on the mooney but sold it to Modworks several years ago. I would find an IA who regularly does STC's and see what they say would happen if the STC/337 was sent in to OK City. The newer STC's that I purchased all had a statement in red across the front of them that it was only good for my plane serial number. I would think this might raise a red flag, but I don't know how closely they are looked at before putting them in your file. I also have some older STC's from several years ago that does not have this statement on them, so they might not be as likely to raise the red flag.

Lapping compound might be an option if you can get to the sealing surfaces.