N601RX

Depending on how much it cost to get them overhauled it may be better to replace them with something new. EI, Areospace Logics, or Mitchell.

29.22 It may vary considerably depending on the install. How close it is to hose bends, if the flow exits uphill, ect. I've saw some installs on here that did not even attempt to follow the STC.

I have the DRO on my mill, not on the lathe, so perhaps that why I find creative ways to use in place in the Lathe. If anyone is considering buying a used one its kind of like buying a airplane and then upgrading it. Look for one that has a DRO, Vise, Rotary Table and a good asortment of indexible tooling. Otherwise you will end up sepending several thousand more on these extras.

The mooney type certificate was ammended a few years to say that if no vacuum equipment remained, you could remove the pump and associated parts. You can look it up on the FAA website.

Here is the one from Aero Comfort that I installed. It took a while to figure out how to position it. Once I did it worked fine. Most of it is below the floor and it doesn't interfere with the J-Bar any. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

For small stuff such such as a gear bushing just put the piece of brass in the vice pointed upward. You can then use a adjustable boring bar head to machine the ID and OD. You could also just put the piece of brass in the Collet and the just put your favorite lathe cutter in the vice. For large stuff use your rotary table. The only thing that can't be done is long stuff such as a drive shaft or something.

Get a Mill. They are much more usefull and most of what can be done on a lathe can also be done in a Mill. I would much perfer an old Bridgeport Mill and Harding Lathe to any of the Overseas stuff that is available new.

The chrome stuff came from autozone

I knew there had to be at least one more. We are just outside Auburn and are always hiring engineers. Let me know if you decide to move back south.

I noticed there are several engineers. Any other Auburn grads?

It's somewhat common on IO 360's. It is made worse if the through bolts are not a tight press fit into the case. I overhauled my engine last year which had almost 2000hrs. I dropped if off at DIVCO and had them redo the case. They resurfaced the mating surfaces to get rid of the fretting and converted my case to use dowels to keep the case halves aligned. The larger hollow dowel pins keep the 2 case halves aligned and the through bolts are just a slip fit. The also added a o-ring pocket around each dowel so there is no possibility of oil leaks around the through bolts. The other possibility is using oversized through-bolts, but they are expensive.

My Bridgeport has a manufacturing date of 1948 cast into it. All the ways are chromed and it still holds good tolerances. This old stuff last forever if taken care of. I also have a cast iron bandsaw that was manufactured in 1908. It weighs over 2000 lbs. The material used in 3D printers is much better than it was 5 years ago.

We have 2 of those at work. They work very well for quick plastic or rubber parts.

Electrical Engineer.

It looks to me like there may be additional corrosion between the spar cap and wing skin that the picture is not showing. In one of the pictures the skin appears to be pushed down from the spar cap. When you see this it is usually an indication of corrosion between 2 parts.

I have the 830 and have been considering adding on of these for fuel level. It seems to be the most accurate option available. http://www.aerospacelogic.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=56

Where are you located? If I were in your situation I would want to fly it to one of the better known MSC that have had to deal with this before and get their opinion. If a large length of the spar is involved, you may not have any choice but to replace the wing or spar cap. If it is just a small section, it may be possible to get a DER to draw up and approve some form of local repair to the damaged area. I know someone who replaced the wing in their C model several years ago. Some of the bolt holes did not line up exactly and they had to ream and use oversized bolts. I also read about a shop up in the northeast somewhere that had replaced a couple of spar caps without replacing the entire spar.

I purchased a 40" metal lathe and Bridgeport Mill several years ago. I just have them as a metal working hobby, but they are invaluable. I will occasionally I will even turn wood in them!

If he replaces the J bar it is going to require re-rigging all 3 of the landing gear. Just make he knows this and has the rigging tools. I would want it checked even if the J-bar is just removed and handle replaced

I was able to stretch it over the top of my J Bar. I'm not sure if they intended it to have lace or not but I had some and just wrapped 2 turns around the cuff of the boot and tied it down tightly so it sealed up tight around the J bar. I did not punch any holes for the lace as the rudder pedals have.

Mcmaster carr has about any type of edge trim you need. Most autoparts stores has the U shaped edge trim. It is U shaped and has glue already inside the U so it stays where you put it.

Last year the J bar boot was $49 and the rudder boots $25 each. The J bar boot is susposed to have a piece of lace around the top of it to pull it up snug around the J Bar.

I put one in a while back. I used 3M weatherstrip glue. I can get a picture. I had the same problem your probably having. I finally pushed the top of the boot all the way down on the J bar and the leather "pouch" is basically under the floor. I don't think it would have stretched for enough any other way.

If I remember correctly the FAA considers seat repairs like this to be a major repair.

On my F if you remove the cap/harness there is enough room to get it out. You may have to rotate the mag a little to be able to get to the 3 screws that hold the cap on. I have slicks, bendix may be a little larger.