N601RX

If the hole is slightly worn, you can get rivets with a oversized shank and standard size head so they look normal and not like a "repair job". My plane has 5800hrs and all the rivets apear to be original. How many other have had to replace wing rivets?

I had the same problem and cut the old oils soaked stuff across the top of the foot wells. I have a new engine, so the oil leaks are gone and have resealed all the cracks. Now I need to find or make something that looks nice and goes up to the top of the footwells.

I would like something that was already shaped to fit the footwells and just attach it with a couple of screws. This is how mooney originally attached it. If you could find a scrap firewall and take to an uphostery shop, they should be able to make something that would fit nicely and then you could just put a couple of screws in it. I'm pretty sure mooney covered the firewall before installing it in the plane.

Spruce sells key blanks for their locks and ignitions if your local hardware store doesn't have them.

The duct tape in that area is what mooney used to seal the seams in the firewall. If you removed it you will be able to see through the cracks. I replaced it with some fire rated aluminum tape from mcmaster and 3m caulkstrips. I've been looking at redoing the inuslation in that area also, but would like something that is easily removable. I've already replace my jbar boot and pedal boots with boots from aerocomfort. They might be interested in making something that was custom fit for that area. Its not fun trying to reach up in that area, it would be nice to have a scrap firewall to use as a pattern.

There was a discussion a while back about fire sleeve. It seemed some planes have it and others don't. I installed the Lasar oil cooler relocation last year and the hoses it came with did not have fire sleeve. Then again the original oil hoses are very close to the exhaust and with the relocation kit they are not even close. My IA is of the opinion that if they are close enough to the exhaust that a exhaust leak could burn through them then they need fire sleeve. Otherwise he prefers them not to be sleeved so he can inspect them and determine the condition of them. The fire sleeving can also conceal early stages of leaks or other problems that would otherwise be easily visible.

Yes. I had an extra one that I sold to another member a couple of weeks ago. It was the accutrack and accuflite. I have both of these on my plane as well as their altitude hold. Their stuff works very well and is a easy upgrade (low install cost) for planes that already have the wing leveler.

Have you considered a Brittain Accutrac? Its a fraction of the cost and works very well.

With the boot sticking up I could not get it to work without extreme stretching. With the boot pushed down flush with the floor it fits good and is not stretched in either gear position.

Aero comfort makes a leather one that fits nice.

Here is one of the more useful things I have found for getting to some of the fasteners in tight places. The ratchet only needs a few degrees to make a ratchet motion and it has no loose motion in it. It also has an adaptor so you can use any 1/4" socket with it. Its very high quality and low profile. Occasionally you can find them on ebay cheaper. http://www.techni-tool.com/307SC344?gclid=CJ75rvvsn7UCFQHonAodoCgAIw

Lubrication and rigging makes a big difference. The other major factor is speed. At 120mph is very difficult to do. At 85 it takes very little effort if it is properly adjusted. You can also just bank a little if you want to extend the gear and let gravity do the work. I would put it on jacks before flying again and verify that everything is ok. I can't tell from the pictures, but if you have inner gear doors, that will make it considerably more difficult from what I have been told.

I agree. I have soft copies of every manual for the plane, engine and all accessories on my Ipad. That way I'm never without them.

Congratulations. What part of Alabama are you from? Myself and a couple of others are from Alabama and North Florida.

dp

Here is the one I used. It comes with matching locks for the doors. http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/elpages/igswitches2.php?clickkey=5735

The installer is either required to measure the loss of the coax and verify it is within a range or just replace it with RG 400. The Garmin dealers are allowed to sell a new unit to someone if you give them the N# of an experimental that you plan to install it in. I suspose you could always change your mind about which plane it goes in. A complete correspondence test is required on the encoder/ transponder any time the wiring to it is messed with.

You can also just order the bare Stratosflex hose from Spruce and put your old ends back on it if they are not corroded. It cost me about $100 to replace all my engine and airframe hoses doing it this way. Just make sure your A&P has the correct mandrels. This also gives you the option to optimize the length.

DP

The wheel was changed in 67' The 40-86 was used after that. I think they use different brakes also. If Mooney officially superceeded the pn or issued a service bulletin allowing the change you may be able to use the 40-86. http://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft%20Wheel%20&%20Brake%20Division/AWB%20Static%20Files%20for%20Literature/AWBPC0001.pdf

It uses internal retainer strips. It doesn't have screws protruding through the skins

If its older and uses screws to hold the windows in I would say remove the screws, windows and all the old sealent before painting. Some of the screw heads is likely going to have a little corrosion under them which can be cleaned off and painted over. Also it is likely that whatever is used to remove the sealer may run down the outside of the plane. The old windows could be just taped back in and painted over. After the paint is dry, then install the new windows. This would likely save a little money over doing it seperately.

If short field take off performance is really a concern, Flap and Aileron gap seals will help. They are about $500 for both.

I rebuilt all 4 of my master cylinders last year and did not have any problems with the bleeding as others have reported. The fluid flowed through the system easily. Here is some other info I dug up in the process. The Gerdes A-110-37 and Cleveland 10-49 are the same cylinders. Cleveland bought out Gerdes sometime in the late 70's. Spruce sells a repair kit that will work with either of these. I have some spare master cylinders if anyone needs one. Also the factory drawings for the copilot brakes allows substituting the Gerdes or cleveland cylinders in place of the original Paramount cylinders on older planes. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=199-516&x=0&y=0