N201MKTurbo

I just went to the hardware store and bought a pump oil can, a piece of 1/4 inch clear tubing fits perfectly over its snout and also attaches to the wheel cylinder bleed valve. It cost about 15 bucks for a good oil can and I've been using it for years now. It is also handy for topping off your reservoir.

BTW, I still have those exhaust hanger parts in a can in my hanger if anybody wants them.

On my old F mooney I had the rubber strap to support the exhaust pipe. It kept breaking and I kept getting cracks in my exhaust system. I finally took it off. After that I flew that plane for 15 years and about 4000 hours and never had any trouble with the exhaust system again.

I bought my J in 2003 and it has male and female yellow insulated spade connectors. Probably not stock, but I'm not going to change them. The only failures I have is when i forget to hook them up when I put the cowl on.

I would check if the cowl is hitting anything in the engine, it will leave marks on the cowl and the part of the engine it hits. If your cowl flaps are not rigged to close tight they could be rattling in the closed position. The cowl flap actuator is mounted on the engine mount, so essentially on the airframe, when you close them they could be re-positioning the cowl by pulling it up a bit. The cowls get loose on the fasteners after a while. Also the engine mounts start to sag after a while, so the two conspire to make things at the bottom of the engine start to touch the cowl. Aside from the cowl flap issue, I find most rattles are in the glare shield and overhead interior trim, but that is probably just my plane. I hate rattles, they don't mean anything most of the time but they drive me crazy. Right now my plane has no rattles (knock on wood)

With no flaps, you just put a little bit of back pressure when you hit about 50 knots or so (you can feel it) and the plane leaves the ground so smoothly the only wau you can tell you are airborn is the ride gets a little smoother. 201er, you need a smoother runway.

I only use flaps for take off on very short runways. Same as mentioned above, no configuration change and smoother take off. I bought my first Mooney in 1984 and stopped using take off flaps about two weeks after that.

All the leak repairs I did to my tanks was to fix the job that Weep No More (Wilmar) did. Their system ruined the paint on the bottom of my wings and wheel wells. They did an incomplete job of resealing the tanks. I didn't want to pay the $2000.00 transportation to have them do warranty work, so I fixed it myself. I have heard that a lot of people have had good experiences with them, that's why I went there in the first place, but I was very disappointed and will never do business with them again. Send me a PM and I'll tell you the whole story.

If you have a leak the soap bubble method will work. I had a tremendus leak and the bubbles were very hard to spot, but if you keep looking you will find them. I found that if I applied the liquid hand soap as heavy as I could with a paint brush, making sure you cover everywhere with the soap. Just before you tape the plexiglass panels over the access holes, lightly spray the inside of the tanks with water from a spray bottle to activate the soap. It usually takes me about an hour to paint the soap on the inside of all three cells of a tank and the soap will dry out before you are done. Also use the thickest heaviest hand soap you can find. BTW it will make your tanks smell wonderful. In both tanks that I've fixed the leaks were quite a ways from where I thought they would be from the stains, so don't make the mistake of only checking near where you think the leak is, check the whole tank. You need to remove all six panels to see every nook and cranny. PITA for sure.

I have used Dom Maxwells method for fixing leaks on two airplanes with perfect sucess. It is documented on his website. it takes about 10 hours per tank in labor and about $150 in supplies. I am an amateur A&P, I have the license, but never did it for a living.

I've been slipping my Mooneys for years, it works fine, I've never had any problems. It would be nice to have more rudder. My current Mooney is a J with speed brakes. Granted that if you fly properly you never need the speed brakes or to slip, but stuff happens.

Is it a wide deck case or a narrow deck case? Does it take the cylinders with the hold down plates and the Allen nuts, or the cylinders with the thick bases ind the hex nuts?

I've been using it for years. It is the second place I go when planning a flight.

I'm flying to Oceanside from Phoenix (KCHD) this Sunday, You can ride back if you like and take an airline back home. I have a 1977 M20J with Turbo.

Have you checked the gauges themselves? when I had a M20f they were always the problem, they have some cheap little wire wound potentiometers in them that get a bad connection after a few decades.

P51 Mustang Max power 3000 RPM 67 in Hg!

Actually, At lower RPMs the fuel charge has more time to burn in the cylinder, therefore more heat is delivered to the cylinder and less is available when the exhaust valve opens. Which gives lower EGTs. A timing change would have the same effect at constant RPM. I have a turbo 201 and routinely run 29 inches and 2400 rpm at 9 GPH. This gives me 150 KTS down low and 170 KTS up high. for 21.7 MPG at 195 MPH. I wish my truck would do so good!

The best way to check if the starter is getting enough juice is to measure the voltage at the starter while it is cranking. This requires you to put a meter lead on the actual starter terminal. This is done by attaching an alligator clip lead to the starter terminal and the other end to the meter. connect the other meter lead to the engine. On a 12 volt plane you should see greater then 10V at the starter while cranking, anything less and you have a problem. If you see more then 10V and the starter still does not crank well, then the starter is bad.

I use Air Hawks because they are cheap, I fly about 125 hours a year and usually get about 5 years out of mains and 10 years out of nose tires. I replace tubes on inspection, usually get about 15 years out of tubes.

I thinl I'm safe with the statute of limitations at this point, I sold my M20F in 2003. When I bought that plane in 1984 two weeks later I went to the aurto parts store and got a vacuum solonoid valve for som AMC smog system for $10.00, and a Klixon circuit breaker switch fron the local airplane junkyard and wired it up. 19 years later it still worked perfect. Funny how no inspector ever noticed it.

Yes, I don't miss those days with the uncontrolled 4000 foot assents and descents in severe turbulence. Went from 13500 to 18000 feet one day in about two minuets, nothing I could do about it, and then went down just about as fast. No oxygen! Trying to figure out what is going to kill me the rocks, hypoxia or the turbulence breaking the plane in half. 26 years old, I owned a Mooney and had a job where I had to get places in the mountains, it's a wonder I'm still alive. On the flip side, on a calm crisp winter day, flying low altitude through the divide is one of the most beautiful sites you will ever see!

I have one to make me legal for annuals. I can't see anything in the cylinders that I cant see with a flashlight and small mirror through the spark plug holes. I stuck it in my exhaust system once and saw that the ends of my turbine impeller were all melted off. The turbo was working fine, so the bore-scope cost me $2500.00

As long as the configuration is listed on the type certificate for your model, you can change things around to your harts content with just a logbook entry. My first Mooney was a 67F that had manual gear and flaps, had that plane for 19 years. Now I have a 201 with electric gear and flaps (Dukes). I wish I had the Johnson Bar back! Never had a problem with the manual gear. With the electric gear, I disassemble the actuator every other annual, clean and re-lube it, takes about four hours. Replaced the gears just after I bought the plane, no sign of any wear sense. I have replaced two emergency extension couplers, I think I bought the last one on the planet last time. (My partner would bump the engagement lever with his knee and then extend the gear) I had a brush fall out and had to use the emergency extension once. I would love to put manual gear in my J, but it will not clear the center console.

The only time I flew the Mooney to NYC I landed at KHPN. The fees and fuel are very reasonable. Took a taxi to the train and was in grand Central Station 45 min after landing. (lucky timing on the train) I checked the fees at all the other airports and the fees are very high.

It is easier then stated above to test the autopilot. With the airplane on the ground, engine off, master on. To test the servo clutch, just turn on the left switch, you should hear the clutch engage and feel the autopilot restrict the movement of the ailerons. Test the servo by rotating the roll knob all the way to the left, the yoke should rotate slowly to the left, then rotate the roll knob all the way to the right, the yoke should rotate to the right. Do this before you do the above tests. If the clutch doesn't work, try wiggling the connector on the disconnect relay (on my 77 J it is way up on the firewall behind the vacuum manifold) to see if it causes the clutch to engage intermittently, if so fix the connector. Try the disconnect switch on the yoke, you should hear the disconnect relay click when you actuate the switch. Does your electric trim work? The electric trim and the autopilot clutch both go through the disconnect relay. I have had the disconnect relay fail, the connector on the disconnect relay box fail, the connector at the servo fail, and a broken wire in the cable that goes to the servo. I was able to fix them all for no money, just my time. My autopilot currently works perfect (knock on wood)