N201MKTurbo

The vibration is tortional vibration it is the twisting of the crankshaft. You cannot feel it very much, but it is incredably stressful to the crankshaft and propeller. I have an article somewhere about the development of the R2600 crankshaft that goes into a great deal of detail on the subject. If anybody would like to read it let me know and I'll find it and post it.

When I was younger and the rules were a more lax I flew in icing more then I should have. This was in my 67 M20F. The heater will only clear about a one inch strip near the bottom of the windshield. I found it effective to get a credit card from your wallet, stick your arm out the side window and scrape the ice off the windshield. I have landed with my only outside visability being the open side window.

My ex-wife's parents lived in Sedona, so I made more trips there then I can remember. One Christmas we flew up there and the weather was horrible. I was the only plane in the sky. On Phoenix approach and center - no other planes except airlines. It was snowy all over and the winds were nasty. On approach to Sedona the winds were out of the northeast at about 50-60 knots. About 1/4 mile from the end of the runway there was a downdraft so strong that I could not maintain altitude with full power. I dropped below the runway about 50 feet. To avoid crashing into the cliff I turned right and flew along the right edge of the hill. After I passed the end of the hill the downdraft subsided and I started to climb. When I was about 20 feet above the runway I side slipped back to the runway and touched down about mid field. Sedona is always interesting.

When my son was about 2 1/2 I took him flying. Strapped his child seat into the right seat and off we went. Just after liftoff he decided to put both feet on the yoke and push as hard as he could.... Never learned about that in flight school.

I've been to all three more then three times each (have to check the logbook) McCarren used to be OK, but I stopped going there about 10 years ago. I always go to Henderson now. The fuel is cheap the rental cars are cheap and it takes no time to get to the strip.

If it is bad to hose down a Mooney, what happens when you fly it IFR in heavy rain OMG!

With both mags firing the fuel charge burns from two locations, with one mag firing it only burns from one location. This has the same effect as retarding your timing, it will lower cylinder pressures and reduce power. This will make the engine less prone to detonation and will reduce stress on the engine. Because the fuel charge is burning slower there will be less heat transferred to the cylinder thus reducing CHTs and more heat left in the fuel charge when the exhaust valve opens raising the EGTs. A rich mixture burns faster than a lean mixture, so some power can be recovered by going ROP. nothing you do will harm your engine.

Most insturment shops can overhaul the gauge. Make sure it has a label or they won't touch it. Expect to pay about $300 for an overhaul. It can be repaired for less.

I have a 115 cu ft steel tank that has some life left. Let me know if you are interested and I will run out to the hanger and get the numbers off of it.

I have the M20Turbos conversion, not the RaJay conversion. I was just saying that it is essentially the same conversion with some upgrades that make it work much better. I would miss the turbo if I didn’t have it. I flew a NA M20F for 19 years before buying this plane, so I understand the differences. I make most of my trips at high altitude and enjoy the smoother air and getting over the weather. I flew about 2000 hours in and around the Colorado Rockies with my M20F and got very good at negotiating the passes and getting around at 12-13 K. Now I just fly over the top at 16-17K The extra speed is nice; I once had 245 KTS GS at 17500 in level flight flying from SFO to CHD (KPHX). I normally see 155 KTS down low and 185 KTS up high.

I have an M20 Turbo J and I have been maintaining it for 9 years. It basically is the RaJay conversion with an intercooler, fixed wastegate from a 231 and an intake pressure controller. Mine has had it's share of problems. Cracked turbo mounts, cracked exhaust system, cracked heat shields, leaking scavenger pump, Fried turbo (my fault) and failed pressure controller. Other then that it works great! Over the years I have resolved most of the problems and now it is pretty low maintenance. BTW I have discovered the rule of 600s for turbo repair... compressor housing = $600.00 turbine housing = $600.00 compressor wheel= $600.00 turbine wheel= $600.00 bearing housing = $600.00 overhaul labor = $600.00

Just remember that the instrument rating only certifies that you can handle the airplane in the clouds. How to fly in weather is something you are going to learn on your own. Be careful out there, Mother Nature can be an evil B!@#$

You will notice two small vents on the side of the fusaladge that vent into the baggage compartment. You may want to block them in the winter.

Go to a vinyl sign making company and give them a drawing, they can make you a new sticker that looks just like the origonal or any way you like. They have printers that can print any color you want and computer controlled cutters that can make any shape you need. The price is reasonable. These are the people that make car wraps. Have them make the stickers in two pieces so you don't have to remove all the control cables, which will take about a weeks work.

I had a similar problem once, the retard breaker wire was chafing inside the mag and had shorted to the case, I was away from home and needed to get going. I finaly found out that if I cranked the engine and let go of the key it would start when the regular points were engaged. The fix was to re-route the retard breaker wire in the mag, I didn't even have to remove the mag.

I did 23 owner assisted annuals before my IA told me to go get my license, he gave me my a letter of recomendation and a month later I'm an A&P.

Instead of spending the money for a raft and HF, just buy a little extra gas and fly along the mexican coast and check out the beautiful country,

You can use your portable GPS to get the bearing to the VOR, that is what it should read.

I second what everyone is saying. I have been using the Concord AGM batteries sense about 95 and they last longer and the battery boxes don't need to be cleaned and re-painted every year.

I've had good luck taking the switch out and washing it in the parts washer, then test it with an OHM meter while actuating it until it starts working, then drying it off with compressed air. Both of my Mooneys have had this problem at one time and I was able to get it working again in both instances. The switch lives in a pretty harsh place and can easly get full of crud. Giving it a shot of triflow from the wing side at every annual would probably be a good idea.

Considering that cylinder 3 is where the stock EGT and CHT sensors are installed, and that any aftermarket scanner usually has a somewhat different installation on cylinder 3, I would check your thermocouples. I have all my CHTs in the thermowells except #3 which is a ring under the stock sensor. I dislike the rings under the sparkplugs, they are hard to install and get damaged easily and make lousy spark plug waswhers.

I have a brand new hartzel spinner for a 201 cowl if anybody is interested.

It could be one plug is misfireing, try a mag check at the low power setting to see if it is rough on one mag. The magneto power output is very low at low RPMs. With only one plug fireing the fuel charge burns slower and there is more residual heat when the exhaust valve opens, rasing the EGT.

The electronic tachs are worth every penny, you will never have a tach problem again and the install is much easier then the cable job you did.

I flew a 67F for 4500 hours and three engines. The only time I had oil consumption that high something was broken. I would at least have the cylinders removed re-honed and replace the pistons if they were not replaced at the last overhaul along with a new set of rings. I am an A&P and haven’t paid for repair labor for the past 25 years, but the parts for that would be about $2500.00, It would take about 6 hours to remove the four cylinders and about 4 hours to replace them, barring any other squawks found in the process.