N201MKTurbo

If there are tiny little hanger fairies that like to take things apart wandering around your airport, they may find a tiny little shear pin that might cost 10 cents to replace.

Bending the arm to make it shorter or longer will change the scale factor. Bending the arm to make it higher or lower will change the offset. I would suggest finding out how much fuel is in the tank when the float just lifts off the bottom of the tank and how much fuel is in the tank when the float is pinned to the top. When the tank is apart and empty adjust the float until it reads the correct readings when against the top and bottom of the tank.

I used to have a 67 M20F that had never been resealed, As of 2003 when I sold it it did not leak at all.

About 15 years ago I was working at the national laboratory (GUM) in Warsaw Poland. This 1930s era soviet building had the dry toilets you described, they were just weird. I wondered how they could afford the $800,000.00 piece of equipment I was installing but couldn’t afford an $100.00 toilet!

I have had a gauge fail as you stated. I would suggest removing the gauge and taking it to an instrument shop for bench check.

Every nut in the control system should have a cotter pin. If the hardware has been changed out to anything else your airplane is not airworthy. Nuts with cotter pins cannot come loose!

OK the spacing got a little off. And I messed up two characters. Haven't been an active HAM for 35 years. It was supposed to say Hi Bill KB7XE My old call sign. I screwed up the B and P Look at how much fun everybody had with it!

If it is working OK, you might consider just having it re-sealed instead of overhauled. The reseal will be about half the price and the shop will call you anyway if they see anything bad.

I have had both. I currently have the levers and wish I had the push pull controls. The levers eat up a lot of leg room. I think they make the cabin seem more cramped. I think I can adjust the push pull controls more accurately. You can install vernier push pull controls, which makes mixture setting much more accurate. besides, changing them out will be a giant PITA! Just my 2 cents...

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I don't get the question... If you advance the timing you will get more power, at the risk of detonation. Conversely, if you retard the timing your engine will be safer with less power. The only legal thing to do is set the timing to the data plate setting. If you want more power shove all the knobs to the firewall and burn more fuel. You will get the best performance if both mags have their internal timing set the same and correct and the engine timing as closely synced as possible.

Thermocouples fail when the wires come apart, an ohm meter will tell you that.

http://www.chaparralparts.com/servlet/the-597/553-dsh-673-probe-CHT-Piper/Detail http://www.skygeek.com/piper-553-673-probe.html http://www.krn.com/inventory_search.aspx?pn=553-673 http://www.chaparralparts.com/servlet/the-1161/880010-dsh-503-CHT-probe-Mooney/Detail http://www.trimcraftaviation.com/Trimcraft%20Website/Trimcraft%20Catalog/90911Catalog2005-1%20Separate%20Pages/67%20TEMPERATURE%20PROBES.pdf http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/rochcht.php it is a ROCHESTER 3080 38

Yes, you are right, it is not clear cut. It depends on who is interperating the rules. I think some shops are just trying to sell capacity tests and batteries. I flew every day for over 20 years as a commuter, and I would usually get 5 to 7 years out of a battery. For the last two years I've had a different job and only fly about 25 hours a year. I'll see if this shortens the life of the battery.

23.1353 (h)(1) In the event of a complete loss of the primary electrical power generating system, the battery must be capable of providing electrical power to those loads that are essential to continued safe flight and landing for: (i) At least 30 minutes for airplanes that are certificated with a maximum altitude of 25,000 feet or less; and (ii) At least 60 minutes for airplanes that are certificated with a maximum altitude over 25,000 feet. (2) The time period includes the time to recognize the loss of generated power and to take appropriate load shedding action. The FAA has been requiring compliance with this lately, meaning that a capacity test is required at annual. If the battery won't pass the test then you need a new one.

I just use a sectional when flying over the mountains at night....

Definitely sounds like a probe. I have had a cylinder completely quit and had to fly about 20 miles on three cylinders. It runs a bit rough, but not plane destroying rough. It made enough power to fly OK. I had an exhaust valve stick open.

I believe Lake Aero Styling can repair the mounts.

Sorry, I was busy yesterday. I need to check the logs to see when it was done, time seems to fly these days. And I have pictures to prove what i said. I took my plane there because they were supposed to be the best, and I have heard good things about them sense. I had my plane done when they were just moving into their new shop at the new airport. I was the first airplane they did in their new shop and they were a bit disorganized. The warranty I had said that all repairs would be done in Wilmar. All things considered, it cost about $2000.00 to deliver and pickup the plane from Arizona to Minnesota. I should have contacted them, but I didn't have the time to take the plane back for warranty work, so I just fixed it myself.

My Mooney lives at CHD it's a beautiful time to be in AZ. Went hiking in the Superstitions today, it was perfect!

I want Duke's alternator, I could solve the energy crisis

Every time I have had a diode failure or a stator winding failure, you will get a noticeable high pitched whine in your radios that varies with RPM. In most cases if an alternator drops a single phase it will still work good enough. After it drops the second phase, it'll barely run the radios and the whine will be very loud. I have repaired quite a few alternators for cars and aircraft, all diode failures have been mechanical, not an actual failure of the diode. The diodes work loose from their mounts or their leads fracture from vibration or thermal cycling. Hot wireing the field as Jose suggests is a good way to verify that the alternator is working, just don't let it go very long or it will ruin your battery, and make sure you disconnect the regulator when you do this or you could ruin the regulator.

Yea, That's an airport car! (truck) You could probably sell the rack to pay for the first year of insurance!

I ment the left tank is now leaking. I havn't opened it up yet, so I don't know how it was done.

I have wrote about it before. They didn't have it finished when promissed, after I bought tickets to pick it up and took time off work. They ruined the paint on the landing gear, wheel wells and portions of the wing and fuselage. It took me about 30 hours of work to fix it. It started leaking within two weeks, I'm sure they would have fixed it, but the logistics and cost of taking it back were prohibitive. I have done two repairs to the right tank, each one took about 12 hours of my time. The right tank is now leaking. When I was fixing the tank I noticed that there was no bead of sealant applied, only a brush coat. The Mooney service manual is very specific about this. The only place there was the red liquid butal rubber applied was in the cells that you can see through gas caps, I can only assume they were trying to cut corners and decive me.