N201MKTurbo

Yes, they had a thumbscrew on top so you could clean the screen. In our case, the body was so gunked up, oil couldn’t flow out the return line.

Back in '95 I was going to some aviation seminar in downtown Phoenix. It was at a hotel. I took my 2 year old son with me and he was riding on my shoulders. When I entered the hotel, this old guy saw the kid and started playing with him. It was Scott Crossfield.

I do annuals on a C310 with two big Continentals. Last year we cleaned both separators. I don’t think they had ever been cleaned. The screens were pretty much plugged and there was gunk in the bottom akin to asphalt. We removed them from the engine to cleaned them. I don’t think any oil was draining back, it was just building up till it went out the big hose.

These things are very difficult to prove after the fact, how they got that way, and they are rare enough that nobody wants to put the money and effort to get to the root cause.

The editor went bonkers and wouldn’t let me fix that post.

Contact @EricJ Neither is a CFI, but they know a lot of people at DVT. or @ragedracer1977

Just another point of view. I don’t think the rings are adversely affected by the engine being driven by the prop. During every intake stroke the rings are sealing on the top of the lands. And on every compression, power and exhaust stroke, the rings are sealing on the bottom of the lands. This same paradigm is going on with the prop driving the engine. In both cases the rings are pressed to the top and then the bottom of the lands. So the rings are constantly moving up and down in their lands. What has been documented with shock cooling, is the barrels rapidly cooling unequally with the fin area cooling slower than the non fin area. This can cause uneven wear of the cylinder barrel partially because the barrel is no longer smooth and is undulating. This is a very rare event that requires going from full power to very cold for a long time like an extended high speed descent in cold temperatures. It will never happen by just reducing your throttle.

Just for clarity, I have only slipped in the clouds twice. Once was on my IFR check ride when the DPE said “what was your crossing altitude at XXX?” I was 1 mile from the waypoint and 1000 feet high. I made it. He said he didn’t think a Mooney could do that. He let the E-ticket ride through and I passed. That time was under the hood actually. Then I did it once in actual a year or so later for the same reason. The last time I did it was 35 years ago. It is one of those tools in the dusty bottom of the toolbox I haven’t used in a very long time.

I agree completely about slipping. It is not a normal maneuver while IMC. It’s one of these skills that your good judgement precludes its use.

I owned an M20F for 19 years and flew it about 4000 hours. I have slipped it in the clouds, but you should be very comfortable with your plane and doing slips. When you slip in the clouds, be right on heading before the slip, shove the rudder to the floor and note your new heading. Maintain that heading with aileron while the rudder is down. I’ve never done it with an autopilot, I would disengage the autopilot while slipping. I have never slipped more than 30 seconds or so.

That is true if the engine is dead, but you are still making power. In your situation, you need less thrust.

You can also roll you RPMs down to the bottom of the green, but you were carrying too much power.

Yes, you need to slow down. There is expedited descent in a Mooney, and there is expedited descent in other planes. When ATC tells me that, I give it my best effort. If they tell me to increase my descent, I tell them “unable”. If you want to get down in a hurry, don’t push the nose over, power back to 14-15”, wait till you get down to gear speed, this is where you would slip to slow down. Put the gear down and keep your speed at Vle. You will get down fast and be good for the bumps. Once you get down, you can put the gear up and speed up if you have a way to go.

Shock cooling is a myth. If the OAT was 0 at 10.5 then it should be 8C at 6k. you should be OK for ice. Or were you worried about the bumps? You could always slow to gear speed and put the wheels down. Or do a slip.

If I was doing the repair, I would look in the IPC and see if it was specified. If it wasn’t, I would measure it with a caliper before I ordered the material. It looks like 0.032.

Looks like an easy fix. Just make sure you get them synced. I would adjust the motor for neutral trim, then spin the pot so it indicates neutral trim and hook them back together.

That was from the J manual.

I think those are a gimmick, just use the nylon washers for Pennies each.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/keystone-electronics/3129/315866

Because we have always done it. Nylon is preferred over teflon. It is much tougher and doesn't cold flow as much.

Yep, they are going to end up looking like our 1920s tractor engines. With green valve covers.

Check out the planes in the background.

If I was the sole manipulator of the controls and the wheels hit the ground. I need to fix my map. It quit for some reason. And it was missing a few states.

Valor Atomics just got 19M in seed money. As someone who is working and investing in a biotech startup, you can’t do jack with 19 million.