N201MKTurbo

Just keep a coaster in one of the pockets and set it on window at night.

The things that bind the controls most, are the yoke shafts and the stuff behind the panel.

The planes without the airspeed safety switch, have either a squat switch or nothing. Have you had issues with putting the gear up?

I’ve known and met with a few MSCs they are all about the same. They have a Mooney guru as the boss, but the boss doesn’t spend that much time working on airplanes, he spends most of his time running the business. There is a constant stream of green behind the ears mechanics that cycle through these places that do most of the work. The boss tries to Check everything, but things can slip through the cracks. That is the reality.

That switch is there for you, not for Mooney. It is to keep you from landing gear up. You know how your airplane flies. You can figure out where it needs to be set.

When the plastic becomes brittle, there is no fixing it. You could add a thin fiberglass backing.

AFAIK, you are correct. After the engine is assembled, if you do any cylinder work, you should keep rockers and push rods together so they go back the same way. That is because it is hard to get the lifter inserts out so you can clean all the oil out of them to check the dry lifter clearance. You can get the inserts out if you remove the SS inserts that the push rod tube seals seat on. You will probably damage the insert getting it out, so you will need a new one.

My wild ass guess using my questionably calibrated arms, is about 20 Lbs.

The FAA has a website for reporting SUP. They take the reports seriously. If one person wanted to make trouble, they would go after the one selling the unapproved parts. That would be the person who ordered them from Rochester. https://www.faa.gov/aircraft/safety/programs/sups Don’t shoot the messenger. I’m just telling you what the FAA told me at the IA refresher symposium two weeks ago.

Of course it would. That is how they stay in business. As I stated once before, somebody needs to make a drawing, send it to Rochester with an RFQ. The RFQ should come from somebody with a business license. And if you don’t want to get the FAA on your case, you will need a PMA, or they will be unapproved parts. I learned the other day how serious the FAA is about unapproved parts. They consider people selling unapproved parts as criminals. They intend to send people sellling unapproved parts to jail. As much as everybody cringes at the thought of getting a PMA. Getting one for these dials should be easy. When I was restoring my Cessna, I bought gaskets and push rod tubes from Real Gaskets. I spoke to the owner a couple of times. I checked out his company on Google street view. It is in a shabby little strip mall out in the sticks. The whole place is about as big as a 7-11. He has hundreds of PMAs. If he can do it, it can’t be that hard. https://realgaskets.com

I asked @blueontop that question once while doing a design study on a portable autopilot. He responded, “I don’t know. It depends.”

Just swap your loosest push rods with your tightest, then swap your loosest rocker arms with your tightest. If you cannot get them in range, you will need to buy some new push rods. It takes a couple of hours to put all the pushrod and rockers together, measure them and swap them around. They usually get tighter when you rebuild an engine because when they overhaul a case they mill a bit off the parting surface and the case gets a bit narrower.

If it is a bad spark plug lead, just do a mag check while flying and see if the ticking goes away when one of the mags is turned off.

I think it is good.

I’ll be out at the airport tomorrow, I could check the screen in the one I have.

That part number is for the whole gascolator. Not the screen. BTW, I have one of those in my junk pile.

This is probably the right part. https://lasar.com/seal-kits/gascolator-screen-hedukes-10543-1

I have found the parts manuals for the Prestolite alternators on line. The diodes and brush holders have changed a lot over the years, so you need to make sure you are getting the right parts for your alternator.

I always flew my cats like you do. On my lap. If they get bored they curl up in the copilots wheel well. I think they are calm because the whole plane is purring.

What kind of electric trim is it?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/146370849378?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=146370849378&targetid=2299003535955&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9030089&poi=&campaignid=21214315381&mkgroupid=161363866036&rlsatarget=pla-2299003535955&abcId=9407526&merchantid=114735614&gad_source=4&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh-CQPt11WjIP8Bscn7VrBJ_I&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7LKv-v2FjAMVJiZECB1OATRqEAQYAiABEgIiN_D_BwE

The place I used to work at had a control panel shop. They had an engraver that made those labels. They used it to label devices in the panels and to make the data plates for the panels. If I needed one for a work project or other project, I just asked the panel shop manager and they showed up at my desk in a few minutes. I think it was this one: https://www.visionengravers.com/applications/tags-badges.php

I would drill out the rivets holding that center bracket in place, remove the bracket, replace the nut plates and replace them then rivet it back in. I would probably make a new bracket without the antenna hole in it.

I concur, I have used both. Spirit is out in the nice suburbs, Cahokia is in a bad part of town, but it is close to downtown. I was heading to NY a few years ago and spent the night at Spirit. The next morning I asked approach if I could get a tour of Downtown. Their replay was "I need you to say you won't fly under the Arch". I said "Affirmative, I will not". They said they needed a readback. I said "I will not fly under the Arch". They then gave me an awesome tour of St Louis at 1000 AGL, right next to the Arch.

If it was something that changed suddenly, you probably lost a phase in your alternator. Did you also notice an increase in alternator whine? This is usually caused by vibration cracking internal solder joints in the alternator. Losing a phase (1 of 6) will reduce the efficiency and total output of the alternator. Actually, there are two phase failure modes. 1. lose a diode by an open diode or an open connection and lose 1/6 of the output. 2. lose a stater phase and lose 1/3 of the output.