N201MKTurbo

That’s what I’ve been doing. No trouble since tying the field wire to the output wire.

Yes you can. I have done it. After you remove the screws or panels, use a small paint brush to dab some new stuff into the low spots and hit it with a roller. It will look good as new.

Use Hurculiner truck bed liner. It is exactly the same stuff as Ultimate Wing Walk. But costs 1/3 the price and is easier to get. https://herculiner.com You want a quart of original roll on. It is enough to do your wing walk twice.

Use a micrometer or caliper to measure the wire size.

But I can’t get them from spruce. I’m spoiled, I can order them from Spruce and pick them up 1/2 hour later.

This is the one you need: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/siliconecalvecover_08-01316.php

Hummm, I don’t recall the exact numbers, but the machine we were building would assemble a buckle in about 5 seconds. They were mostly belts for the airlines. I wouldn’t have written that if they weren’t being hand assembled overseas.

To bend a pigtail: if you need a 1/4 inch pigtail, chuck a 1/4 inch drill bit in your vice with the but end sticking up. Set your propane torch next to the vice. Grab the long end with your left hand and the short end of the wire with a pair of pliers. Heat the wire about 4 inches from the end with the pliers. When it gets bright red, quickly move the wire to the drill bit and wrap it around the number of turns you need using the pliers. When it cools, tap the drill through the pig tail and cut the excess wire off with some dikes. If it looks like crap, cut it off and try again. You will be an expert after a few try's.

I’ve found you don’t have to bend it. If you oil the outside, it gets in. As far as the pig tail is concerned, I’ve heated music wire till it is red and you can bend it into any shape you need. Just be quick about it. It is usually the wire that goes bad, usually by rusting through. The wire is easy to replace, just measure the diameter and order some from McMaster or McFarlane. Just cut off any kinks on one end and pull it out the other end. If you need to form one end, do that before pushing it through. Coat the wire with Aeroshell 6 before pushing it through.

No need to get dowel rods, just grab a couple wrenches from the tool box.

Man, your plane is slow….

When I rebuilt my engine, I replaced the starter wire, the alternator wire and the field wires. And the P-leads. If nothing else, it looks way nicer than those old ratty, greasy wires. I had to borrow the hydraulic crimper from my electrician friend.

I have had 3 alternator failures during flight. And one voltage regulator failure. Two of the alternator failures were caused by a broken field wire and one was from a bad brush holder. All happened in VFR conditions, the brush holder happened on an IFR flight. For all of the alternator issues, I landed and fixed it. For the VR issue, I landed and bummed a ride home and returned with a new VR and fixed it. When my VR quit, I landed at Ramona CA. After I figured I couldn’t fix it, I walked into the FBO and asked everybody in the lobby if anybody was going to Phoenix? A young guy with a Bonanza said he wanted to do a practice IFR flight and would take me home. That’s a 3 hour round trip. He took me right to my hangar. I offered him fuel money, he refused to take it. I love GA.

We have one of those around here. The old Lufthansa airport. It belongs to Dillon now and they use it for military training. 1AZ0 It has an ILS. It is not listed in procedures, but if you read the airport info, it mentions it.

https://awc.faa.gov/AWCExternalApplicant/Splash/Index Go here to get a ferry permit. The aircraft owner needs to make the application. An A&P will need to electrically sign it also.

Here is a better deal https://www.univair.com/hardware/camloc/2600-2w-camloc-wing-stud

FWIW, I sent a link to this thread to the NTSB.

Check that the sonalert is not shorted to the roof of the plane. I had to put a sheet of plastic on mine to keep it from shorting.

Couldn’t agree more.

We can hope the NTSB will have the servo inspected. I bet they are reading this thread BTW.

Because the thread went off on a tangent that has nothing to do with the original post. That happens around here. I suppose it is because the OP found crud in his tank. Even though the crud was cleaned out. It seems the OPs crud was just dirt, not any kind of gunk, gum or varnish.

https://ntrs.nasa.gov/api/citations/19970025575/downloads/19970025575.pdf This is a good article about the chemistry of gum and deposit formation.

This is the Canadian version. It is used to make sure the Canadians are flying properly while visiting the USA.

Put a very thin coat of DC4 on the nipples. It will make it much easier

So, for the engine to completely quit, it must lose spark, air or fuel. That assumes all the mechanical parts still work. The mechanical parts are easy to examine after the worst crash and fire. Things like cranks, cams and gears. Spark has the most redundancy with two mags and eight spark plugs. Very unlikely they all quit at the same time. Air induction doesn’t have many ways for a complete failure. About the only thing that could do it is a collapse of the induction boot. I would hope that would have been caught after the first incident. That leaves fuel. The RSA fuel injection system requires pressurized fuel at its inlet. There wasn’t a lot of discussion about fuel pressure from the OP, I wish there was. The fuel pressure gauge should be the first thing to look at. Other than having water in place of fuel, the fuel pressure gauge will verify the operation of everything upstream of the servo. The servo itself is unlikely to be intermittent and completely cut off fuel flow suddenly. Anything I can think of inside the servo that would cut off fuel flow, wouldn’t get better by itself. Anything downstream of the servo inlet would require some kind of clog. It’s unlikely that anything that could cause a clog could get past the finger screen. A clogged finger screen would cause a lack of fuel pressure. And it wouldn’t get better without cleaning it. And it should be easily seen in a post crash investigation. So, what can cause a loss of fuel pressure? 1. No fuel available to the fuel pumps. 2. A clog upstream of the fuel pumps. 3. Defective fuel pump. 4. A leak upstream of the fuel pumps. 5. A leak down stream of the fuel pumps. 6. A clog down stream of the fuel pumps. As you can see, there are a lot of things that can cause a loss of fuel pressure. There is also a lot of redundancy. We have redundant fuel tanks and redundant fuel pumps. If the fuel pressure gauge indicates pressure, about the only thing that can cause the engine to quit is water in the fuel and switching tanks should be your first move. It takes about 10 seconds for fuel from the other tank to make it to the cylinders, which can seem like an eternity. If there was water in the fuel, it can short out the spark plugs and it can take a bit for the water to be either blown out of the cylinders or evaporate so the plugs can fire. In this incident, it is very unlikely there was water in the tanks after all the work that was done. If there is a lack of fuel pressure, there are only two things you can do, switch tanks and turn on the boost pump.