N201MKTurbo

So far, so good.

Are you sure you are putting them on the correct mag? BTW, I'm not faulting you, it is a common problem. The lead sets should come with a routing diagram. FWIW, The leads on my old Cessna are supposed to be routed in this crazy complicated way. I just did them the easy way. The engine in the Wikipedia article has the leads routed just like I did.

FWIW. The 310 window is supposed to be rigged with 0.010 copper wire. It was rigged with 0.020 stainless wire. It was impossible to open.

It will just make the trackers more creative. I think it is a losing battle.

There are only two adjustments on the flaps. The link and the stop. To do the link, put the flaps all the way down and use an angle gauge toget the new flap to match the other flap. Then go fly the airplane and adjust the new stop till there is no heavy wing. Move the stop 1/2 turn at a time.

It’s time to replace the strobes with LEDs.

Tomorrow and next weekend, I’m busy. I could do some evening this week.

You should bring it over some time.

The reason your bottom leads are too long, is because they are not routed according to the book. Six leads should go through the big hole on the baffles. Then four go to the right, through the mounting bracket in the center of the baffle. The leads for the right side bottom plugs go through the feedthroughs on the side of the baffles. The two left bottoms go straight to the plugs Most I have seen route the leads straight to the bottom plugs and then the leads for the right top plugs are routed through the feedthroughs.

Any A&P who knows how to weld can do it. It is in 43.13-1B. I’ve done it. You can make a jig from your existing system by just laying the system upside down on a piece of plywood. Mark the position of the flanges and drill mounting holes for the risers. Bolt the system to the plywood. Assemble the new parts on the jig and tack them together, then take them off and run the welds. I have found it easy around here to find race shops that can make the bends and slip joints. For little money. I will admit I don’t do the welding. I know guys that are artists with a TIG torch. I get them to run the welds.

You want to shim where the main pivot goes through. You may be able to get shims from LASAR, but you may be able to get them from McMaster Carr. A standard washer fits, but it is too thick. If you know someone with a surface grinder, you could grind down a washer and get a perfect fit.

You need to do an ELA to find out if your alternator is the right size. With all the panel work done to most planes, there should be one in the maintenance record somewhere. Most of the avionics STCs require it.

So, don’t spray it on your testicles.

But she still has another jet. She sold the 900 because her boyfriend couldn’t stand up in it, not to be green. She plans on buying a bigger jet.

When I bought my first Mooney in 1984, I had about 6 hours in Mooneys. Which consisted of two flights and 2 landings. I had about 150 hours of retract time, mostly in C172RGs with a few Arrow hours. My insurance company didn't require any training or additional hours. I never got any Mooney training. My first solo Mooney flight was flying it home from the broker. The next day a friend and I flew it to Oshkosh after work at night. Yes, my 40 year Mooney anniversary is coming up soon.

A friend of mine who changes airplanes about as much as @KLRDMD just flys naked until he has enough hours for the insurance company. I'm not endorsing this plan, but that is what he does.

KLEAR-TO-18OZ_SDS.pdf https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2-Methoxyethanol

Considering that PLEXUS is just coconut flavoured gasoline. That usually isn't recommended for plexiglass either. plexus-safety-data-sheet.pdf

It is an antibacterial that is limited to 15PPM in commercial products. It's hard to imagine there is enough to hurt the plastic. It doesn't seem to hurt the plastic bottle it comes in.

The football shape thing is just a conspiracy to sell more spark plugs. If you can still gap them and the side electrodes are not so thin that they could cause preignition, why replace them?

I've been using spray car wax for the last 20 years. My windows still look great.

https://www.marinemercantile.com/product/plexus/ These guys say they have 101 cans for $19

I have the LASAR one piece belly. I would have to look it up, but it is quite a bit heavier than the aluminum panels.

https://apps.dtic.mil/sti/tr/pdf/ADA566989.pdf This is from 2010 and discusses the challenges of removing polyurethane and polysulfide. The document I referenced before specifically referenced EF-5992 which are polyurethane. It says to reapply the EF-5992, which leads me to believe it was already there. If you search for any info on how to strip EFC-100 it mostly sends you back to Mooneyspace. Also, why didn’t the Mooney factory switch to EFC-100? It’s been available for quite a while.