N201MKTurbo

I have no response to this except, the wheels are magnesium not aluminum.

Shoot some lube around the button and push it a zillion times. It will probably loosen up. In this case, too much is just right. Also shoot some where it goes into the panel. You have nothing to lose.

That’s weird. Never seen that before. What does the bore look like? All I can figure is the bearing seised and spun the race.

I may have one. I’ll look next time I’m at the hangar. What’s wrong with yours!

As far as your turbo is concerned, there isn’t too much steel to worry about, the compressor side is all aluminum. The turbine side is passivated with exhaust deposits. The outside of the turbine housing will have a nice rust patina. But your dehydrator won’t do anything about that.

I think the best method would be to do all of the above. The hardest will be the intake, but not Impossible. The most important would be the crankcase. If you could make a manifold to move dry air through all three spaces, that would check all the boxes. it would be more fun to throw all that away and fly your plane at least once a week.

I cruise LOP. When I descend I leave the mixture where it was. I know I can go to full throttle at that mixture setting without issue. Full throttle while LOP is plenty of power to go around. This procedure doesn’t apply to all engines. Just to the 35 setups like mine out there.

The rudder balance has nothing to do with your plane flying straight. That is a rigging issue. Rudder balance has to do with flutter margins. Which won’t have any effect on flying qualities until it starts happening.

I had you confused with 5he OP.

That’s fine, but if you remove weight from the rudder, you should check the balance. The balance procedure is in the service manual.

So, you have the original M20F oil cooler which is installed with the long axis vertical, but you moved it behind cylinder 4 like a 201. Now it has its long axis horizontal. You might benefit from changing to a 201 oil cooler which is designed to be mounted horizontally with both connections on the same side.

I would check the rudder balance after removing the servo. You should be fine with the cover patch.

Are your oil cooler lines hooked up correctly? It should go in the bottom and out the top.

I just read an article where they took a blown racing engine and tuned it for max HP with leaded race gas and then tuned it for E85. I am assuming the race gas is similar to 100LL. They got a few percent more HP with E85. They attributed it to the cooling effect of vaporizing the E85. It was a carb engine. It seems that E85 won’t work as a drop in replacement in our engines. Our engines would need the fuel flows increased. This is an easy mod, but you won’t be able to switch back and forth between E85 and 100LL. Flex fuel cars have electronic fuel injection systems that adjust the mixture according to what you put in your tank.

I read a book once that was published in the late 1920s about gasoline. Nothing they are talking about today wasn’t in that book. So, thinking that some magic fuel will be discovered is crazy. Would our engines run on E85? Sure they would, but E85 has about 80% of the energy of 100LL, so you would lose a lot of range. And E85 has its own material compatibility issues. 100LL = 112530 BTU/gal E85 = 88258 BTU/gal If it takes 16 GPH to make 200HP with 100LL, it will take 20.4 GPH to make 200HP with E85.

After all my recent magneto weirdness, now my engine is running relatively cool. I cannot explained it. But this weekend I flew to Bullhead City and my CHTs were running under 350 in cruise with fairly high fuel flows LOP. Anyway, my oil temp was about 220 in climb and 195 in cruise.

I had to fix that on my old M20F. I’m not sure when it happened.

Just to expand on what @EricJ said. The heat rarely does any damage. The UV from the sun is what kills everything.

You could use an IR thermometer or thermocouple to see if your oil cooler is getting hot. If you have access to an IR camera, you can see if all the channels are working.

Most I see look way worse than that one.

It is possible your Vernatherm seat needs to be cleaned up. The old one could have warn into the warn seat. I did mine once on my old M20F and it improved the oil temp. I knew the owner of the local engine shop and he loaned me the tool. It took about two minutes to do it after the Vernatherm was out. Like most Lycoming tools, If you go to buy one, it will cost like $5000. https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/attachments/SI1316A%20Bypass%20Valve%20Seat%2C%20Oil%20Cooler%2C%20Repair%20of.pdf https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/lycomingtools_07-17473.php

Actually, I pushed it in and held the orifice and tapped the pin on a wooden block. I wouldn’t hurt his stuff.

He has done the last few mags I have had done. They came back in good shape for a very fair price.

All FARs are written in blood. I expect some new regs to come down from this.