N201MKTurbo

To get a better view of it remove the panel at the bottom of the firewall.

The brush holder connects the field wires with the brushes and supports the brushes. You can easily remove it to inspect it. Just remove the field wires, then remove the two bolts outside of the field wires and pull it out. Inspect the connections on the back side of the field wire studs. If they are loose, you have found your intermittent connection. To replace the brush holder, push the brushes down and stick a wire through the little hole to hold the brushes down, slide it back into the alternator, put the bolts back in and pull the wire out which lets the brushes contact the slip rings. This can all be done easily without removing the alternator

Electric or Johnson bar?

Read my other post on alternators. Remove and check the brush holder and brushes. They are relatively cheap and easy to access.

If you had a spare Mooney, you could just fly it over there.

A poor stripper job and repainted over the residue. You should scrub it off till you get to good paint or metal to be sure.

Shouldn’t be that hard to find…

I’ve only seen that much oil come from an oil filter that didn’t seat quite right. But considering that the pump was replaced, I would check that too.

Or throw it on an old tire in the back of a pickup and drive it over to him.

You can go a lot of ways. I would ask Cody. I have seen them in a foam in place cardboard box. If I was going to build a crate, I would get a 2x10 cut it so it is about 6” longer than the prop, then use the left overs to make two cradles either side of the hub that fit the prop reasonably well. You could split them and hold the top part down with lag screws. Wrap the prop with duct tape where it sits in the cradle to keep from scratching it up too bad. Screw down a couple of blocks either side of the hub to keep it from sliding back and forth. Then build a plywood box to cover it. Screw a few 2x4 blocks to the bottom so you can get your fingers under it to lift it, or get fork lift forks under it.

If you would have done as I suggested above, you would be out a couple hundred bucks and flying a week ago.

I would get a new mechanic.

They are a standard part. They are a mil spec part. Tomgo has parts built to the mil spec for about $500.

There is no magic to taking them apart. Just unscrew them.

It takes bad words and blood. if you coat the seals with DC4 you can get them to snap in pointed up and them rotate them where you like. Put a little DC4 on the spring and tube and the spring will rotate into place easier. If you put a 6” loop of lock wire through the hole, you can slide a screwdriver through the loop and have a good handle to pull on.

It seems like a good case for a field approval. There is plenty of approved data out there to hang your hat on.

It still has the clip for paper approach plates. How last century.

I sold my Cessna to a guy named Carl. He is building time for a flying job. He was out of control last night.

His original post said there was a new cam. It didn’t say whether the lifter bodies were overhauled. I just assumed they were. Who would put old lifter bodies on a new cam. It seems crazy to split the cases and not get the cam and lifter bodies reground. By aviation standards it is cheap.

The ideal condition for your engine is low moisture (dew point) and high temperature. I did a bit of research and humidity seems to be what drives corrosion not moisture content. So the perfect engine preserving machine will both remove moisture from the air and heat the engine. The engine could be heated by external heaters or pumping hot air into the engine. In areas with high humidity and warm temperatures, removing the moisture is your best bet. In cold places, or during the winter warming the engine will be more effective than removing moisture. Or you could move to Arizona. We do all that naturally.

On Lycomings, you cannot change the lifter bodies without splitting the cases. So, it’s hard to imagine it ever happening.

On the old Cessna I just sold, it had Venturies. At run up it would make about 1” of vacuum. It would get the DG going.

Back in ‘01 I was about the first GA plane to fly. I needed to fly from Phoenix to Boulder CO. Only IFR was allowed. When I got to the Denver area there was the biggest baddest blackest super cell you will ever see. ATC kept trying to vector me right through it. I kept saying “unable”. They finally asked “what do you want to do”? And I said “I want to cancel IFR and poke around VFR” they said they would like nothing better. I ended up going back to COS until the storm passed. On another note. I have been in the middle of a level 5 cell. The Mooney stayed together and I obviously kept it right side up. Been there, done that, don’t ever need to do it again. Terrifying on an epic level.

Height above the ground was a piece of cake. If I looked forward I could keep it from going left to right. If I looked sideways I could keep it from going fore and aft. I never got them both going at the same time. Another hour or two and I would have it nailed.

The 300 is the only helicopter I have flown. I have about 2.5 hours in it. I can fly it good enough that if the flight instructor passes out I will get him to the hospital in one piece, but I’m not landing at that little heliport. I’m landing in a big empty parking lot.